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Knowing the engine sits lower on the passenger's side you can tell right off which motor mount goes on which side.

A very muched stressed topic in the ztherapy.com dvd. The flat bar isn't flat at all. You bend it until the opposite ends look the same as far as parallel goes then put it on and then you may need to twist it to get it working smoothly. There's some videos on you tube you can see what we're talking about.

Well you're not a D as far as I've seen. The filter fits between the tank and the high pressure EFI pump where there's nothing but drain from the tank. They're good BEFORE the high pressure pump.

Have you put in the best choke holder? Best money spent, or top 5 I guess.

What's the story behind that? I've always heard FIAT, Fix It Again Tony. That's Italian right? Tony Soprano, Tony's Pizza, Tony's spagetti sauce etc. Tony bologna.

I'm not sure this is what you're talking about but thought I'd share my experience on one I bought. Make sure the J hose that connects the nozzles to the float bowls have the soft rubber hoses and that's not holding them in a bind. I bought one that had regular fuel hose instead and the nozzles weren't coming all the way up. Garage smelt like gas all the time and the carbs were adjusted witout knowing that so there was some back it up and start over issues to get things right.

Mine do it warming up, extra fuel I suppose from choke on the 240 and cold start valve on my 280. Then it goes away after an "Italian tune up" romp.

If you use a small bottle jack or some kind of jack under the "A" arms to take the drop down load off it'll make things a lot easier to work on. I figured that out changing the tie rods. Just jack it up enough to level out the weight, none down and none up. You'll see what I mean if you give it a try. Whoops! Stub axle up front. "A" arms in the back.

Make sure you've had a few beers first, you'll be more beleiveable (at least in your head}.

Push the guide in and use the back hole here, is what I'd do.

Plenty of beer wisdom too. I should change my last name, eh? -Cliff Clavin

My garage door is covered with that stuff from cranking when the door is down. It shoots out a cartoonish "splat" after warm up and then revving it up during the winter months.

It comes in plastic jugs and you need good airflow with it. The fumes are bad up close. I've done a couple of gas tanks using it in my garage with the doors up, open. Poured the used stuff in a 5 gallon bucket and put a good fitting lid on that. Kept it in my garage using it for small stuff for a week or two.

You should follow this word for word. Same car as mine and yours. I did it. Very simple. All we can say is "wow". Thank you Phillip @240260280 https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

I tried a magnet on the OE intake/exhaust gasket from 1972. It wouldn't hold itself but definitely had some pull. That's the old stock exhaust manifold from Nissan. The gasket that came with the 6 into 1 header from MSA had zero pull from the magnet. It feels like thin cardboard. So Mr X is right from where I'm standing along with MSA. But! my Nissan metal exhaust covered gasket pictured above is as quiet as a church mouse with the header. I did not use the MSA supplied paper/fiber gasket. Just a bulls**t observation is all. "Whatever works"

You should add a clear filter between the tank and pump also. Cheap and easy to check for crud that may be in your tank. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

I've always balanced them by removing off the rod instead of the piston. Seems like the same end result is what we want. Total weight per assembly and I ground off the sides closest to the pistons. As the "bluebird of optimism" says "whatever works". @Captain Obvious

Bought it my local dealership. They had to overnight it of course but they still make them. I think zcardepot.com has them as well. If you make out the p/n let me know and I'll get the receipt out of my file. Looks like 14035-E4610. Google that and see what pops up. Yeah that's right number

Mine's got a lot! Not in it but outside of it.

Maybe PB Blaster, Simple Green and grandpa's toothpaste? 😇

Good to hear! Also good to know professionals use acetone and transmission fluid.

I don't remember doing the key any paticular way just flat side goes up. And my timing chain was so tight I thought the same thing, too tight but that was about 4 years ago and everything is fine. Motor spins up really quick. Plus I put my brand new timing kit on a new rebuild at hole #3 the last one for chain stretch so that made it extra tight. That worried me for about a year but it never broke or caused any problems just advanced the mechanical timing 8 degrees I think? gave it more bottom end but with the 5 speed I put in there it has plenty of top end too. Your tensioner does have that rubber/plastic washer between the plunger and the body right? I think I can see it. From Zed's post above...

FWIW my Alabama '77 did not have the heat shield or converter. It was original before I got a hold of it.

You could ask the machinest how much to take some weight off the OE flywheel. The aluminum ones are expensive so a lot of folks lighten the stock one. Use that assembly lube, mine looked like fake blood but I can't remember the name right off. That really helps the bearings while you rotate the crank putting the pistons in. Sounds like you've covered all your bases and should be a walk in the park. Take your time though, I get excited and go too fast and end up making mistakes. Have fun!

On my 2nd go round with the 240 I used that Loctite that's blue. It's not as strong but from all I read it's great for regular vibrations. The gel stick is the way to go on bolt threads.