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I think I'll be lucky to get my money back on my '77 if I ever sold it. There's still plenty of those around.

"I pity the fool", who hasn't driven a Z.

When my timing is set right it runs cooler, too much advance makes it run hotter. Back it up some and see. I think properly adjusted valves help too. Make sure you have the right spark plugs, NGK BP6ES, gapped .039-.043. Just a couple of ideas, good luck. Hell, I forgot the most common. Check the resistance of your fan's clutch, it shouldn't spin too easy. A cheap thermostat has a smaller hole than a Nissan one. Get a Nissan 180. Take the cap off and let it get up to heat and see if coolants flowing across the top of the radiator nice and steady, you may need a new water pump. I put a new clutch and pump on both my '72s as well as the Nissan thermostat when I first bought them, cheap insurance. $50. Does yours have a shroud like the 280s or just the smaller piece on top? I'm thinking of putting a complete shroud on my 240 like the 280 has. A lot of folks run twin electric fans too. Lots of possibilities on over heating. OK scratch about half of what I said, I looked at your pictures. Can you adjust the temp for when the fans cut on?

I wish they'd blocked that Bieber punk at their border.

I'm going through the same thing. My heater valve is leaking onto the passenger's floor board so I looped the 2 connections with a short piece of hose instead of plugging them. It does run hotter on the gauge but feeling around the engine I don't think it's too hot for any damage. My local Nissan parts guy ordered one yesterday and I hope to get it today. I've found some Gates pre formed heater hoses that I can work into that tight spot next to the tunnel. I won't be shooting fire crackers this weekend, eating and drinking too much for sure though. I'll put some pictures and part numbers up when I'm done.

I couldn't see anything that looked different from the car next to it, I spend half of my time comparing the 2 against each other. I'll call them today, my google minded self didn't even google the Shop, thanks Steve. I thought maybe that's what they called it when they had to install a strut instead of "compressing the spring". It's bad out alignment and shredded the inside half of the tread on the front passenger's side of those BF Goodriches. I think maybe their "clapsing" is the cause of that. Thanks again guys, y'all are the best. Cliff

Both my 72s have the Jeco clock, '77 does not. It took about a month to get mine, I'm in Etowah county.

I guess you reflowed the solder to try and fix the problem, :stupid:. I wasn't thinking, sorry.

I'm thinking they meant collapsing but after google.com-ing I can't find an answer. Is it removing one round of the springs to lower the car? Thanks for any clues or for deciphering the bill. IMG.pdf

Sounds like it's loose somehow. What if you removed it and cleaned the ground, maybe use some deoxit cleaner and dielectric grease on the connector, then tightened everything back down real good? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Get a new fuel filter.

I'll gladly give out a chuckle every now and again for all the help y'all give me. And yes sir Captain I always told the people around me "never do this" as I was doing wrong, mostly illegal, but those days are long gone. I tend to be by myself a lot in my older years, my "friends" always have a way of creating problems. That's what I like about you guys, solutions, not problems. I'm taking some time off from my Zs, my house and garage are a mess. Have a good weekend Z friends. Cliff

"A Japanese jigsaw puzzle" that's great! Welcome aboard and yes, please put up some pictures.

I've already sealed up the new connections I made at the sending unit so I tried shorting the yellow and black at the gauge. It didn't work out so I put this down the filler neck trying to raise the float Guess what happened? yeah the T got hooked and wouldn't come out. Since I was old enough to walk, over and pick up a hand full of gravel and put in my Dad's lawnmower's tank, I've known not to put anything down the tanks hole. I'm pretty sure it was "DON'T NEVER EVER, NOT NEVER, PUT ANYTHING BUT GAAASE IN 'NAT HOLE!!". I spent 30 minutes coaxing that out, finally using a length of hard copper wire to move it. After I changed my pants and underwear I went and bought 5 gallons of gas, too simple for a man on a mission. Here's what I have now. It's good enough for now, I'll paint the cans this winter.

There's a lot of stolen '75 and older cars in Alabama. All you need to get a title is a hand written bill of sale. Our DMV didn't communicate with other states computer systems, that's the way it was explained to me when I bought my 1st '72. I see it came from an auction. I googled the newer vin#, VIN HLS30134962 - the Full Information on the Vehicle Maybe it was a rebuild?

I was thinking about your thread when I typed that out.

I just bought one from my local Nissan dealer, part #17342-18000. $1.54 '70 through '83 is the same, I'm almost positive.

You'll be a full blown mechanic after a successful head removal, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/42420-77-280z-head-removal-%5Bstep-step-photos%5D.html Good luck!

Well you know me, I got excited and didn't even try and jumper those wires again! BUT, I will when I get back to it this afternoon. When I got it loose these small plastic mint green cheerio looking things fell down the face of the gauge, they were the tops of the melted plastic post that held the bezel in place. I am gonna Gorilla super glue those spots. I went ahead and painted the aluminium trim piece a satin black and the outer housing a flat black. While waiting for the oil paint to dry, many beers, I decided to slow it down and do all I can while that panel is off. Hopefully I can wait a week and get a newer stereo, house payment is this week. It has a Jensen cassette player in there now that I've never even turned on, it looks cool though as it's late '70s, '80s style. If I can drink beer it's not even like work! :laugh: I'm learning to take pictures of everything like you and Blue. And now I know why, too many beers and I'll forget what goes where.

This's the gauge hanging upside down without any pressure from that aluminum trim behind the glass and that's about right as I only put 4 gallons in yesterday after the tank refurbish and drove it 25 miles. I'm gonna check the gauge bulbs before I put it all back, it's a Yoga style PITA, I don't do Yoga. THANKS

I think I've found the problem. While trying to get to rear of the cigarette lighter, which I can't without removing the heater control panel, I noticed the lens on the gauge had a gap on the right side. So I've double over some Gorilla Tape and pulled the lens off the aluminium divider between fuel and amp gauges. The needle moved! So I'm thinking the Barners I bought this car from, tapping on the gauge too hard has messed it up. The sending unit was frozen with rust and I guess they thought the gauge was the problem. I'll let y'all know what happens. And respect to EScanlon for the write up on removing that panel, RIP sir.

You can get a loaner compression gauge at O'reillys or Advance Auto.

So short the black with the yellow, get in and turn the switch to ON and see what happens. Or should the car be running? I didn't do that yesterday because I had it up on a stand, passenger side only. I'll short them at the sender and crank the car and wait until 1 beer is drank, I'll drink it slowly for the 30 second time suggested. I'm so dang stupid! I've got the same car sitting 6 feet away, I'll see when it's gauge starts moving, ON or cranked and on ON.

I'm having trouble with my fuel gauge and need some help. Brand new sending unit with new connections on it. I shorted the 2 wires together at the sending unit, no movement at the gauge. I tried to measure the voltage at the yellow wire without any luck, it was all over the place on my meter. Then I clipped a cheap test light onto it, it blinked, on/off/on/off/etc. So it's getting some power just not a steady supply. I'll try the ground under the cigarette lighter Mikes Z pointed out. Any other ideas before I take the gauge out? Thanks for any help, Cliff

I agree, find something better. But the inspector described things most all 240s have, "The interior carpet is just laying there. The dash is loose. There are wires running out of the center console for the speakers. The blower motor doesn't work. The test drive was good. The engine idles rough but when you drive it it runs good. I did smell some gas."