siteunseen

I don't get that channel? How long did it take Martha to make $1,700?

Great car! I've never rebuilt a carburetor before. Bought ztherapy's rebuild kit that comes with the "Just SUs" video. watched it a couple of times, rebuilt the carbs and put them on. Fired right up, after the bowls filled. http://www.ztherapy.com/ go to "videos", it's the best $25 you'll spend I promise. Before and after, sorta. I have an extra set for comparison in this picture after I cleaned the ones I rebuilt.

From Fastwoman's post in a thread I found, "There's a quick way to test for vacuum leaks. When you get your new AFM and boots, first connect up just the boot that goes to the throttle. Then stuff something (I use a yogurt cup) inside the boot opening to block the air. Pull off the vacuum hose to the brake power booster, and attach a hose to the manifold that you can stand to put in your mouth. Then blow into the manifold like you're inflating a balloon. The pressure will build, until you can't blow anymore. Just hold the pressure there, and see how long it takes to dissipate. It should take probably 15 sec or more for most of the air to leak back out. Then pull off the little vacuum hose beside the brake booster hose, and repeat the test. You'll see/hear/feel lots of air coming out through that little nipple, and the air pressure should leak down MUCH, MUCH faster. If there is a dramatic difference between the two, your intake and engine are tight. If the difference isn't very dramatic, you have a leak somewhere."

While you have the covers off you could clean the contacts in the combo switch. It helped my 280's headlights get brighter and also my gauge lights. This is for a 240 but it's pretty much the same. Read through it and look at the pictures of where the carbon builds up. It's not very hard to do, be careful bending the tabs to open up the switch though. I broke one of mine but luckily it stayed together. http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

Thank you, I get one every now and then. Something I learned on the one I'm doing now, and I think someone else and I spoke about it in another thread, is to cut up small pieces of paper and write the contents on that then put it inside the baggie. My Sharpie smeared on the baggies during the 280 rebuild, greasy hands caused me a lot of headache a few years ago. I'm too cheap to buy the label type Ziplocs.

I've got a '77 too, great cars. This guy has a '77 and he's done everything imaginable to his. Took great pictures and explains things even my dumb arse can figure out. Here's the page, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

Usually when they pop through the throttle body or AFM, you have a vacuum leak causing it to run leaner. Check the accordian boot that connects the two, it could be cracked or on crooked. Look for any other cracked or disconnected vacuum hoses. If you don't see something obvious, search for "yogurt cup test". You shove a cup into the opening of that accordian boot where the AFM connects to the throttle body, sealing up the system. Then you can pull the brake booster hose off and blow into that bung. Listen for hissing sounds.

When my balls get tempered I have to tuck them into my socks.

Nope, they're pressed in too. I'm going for dependable pressure and getting an electric one.

I use phone/data wire to hold those bolts that thread into another part.

Dead end on the O'Reilly one. I'm giving it back.

Here's a reman from O'Reillys. It's upside down so I can't see Nikki written on the dome top but I bet it is. If not you could swap the tops. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/IDF0/M23049.oap?ck=Search_E-1080_-1_-1&keyword=E-1080&doInterchangeSearch=true EDIT: I just ordered one and should have it Wednesday before lunch, I'll put up some pictures.

That link went to the valve spring compressor you're getting, good choice too. Remember to fill the bores with cord or air pressure to keep the valves from falling. I used a long screwdriver handle on my first head removal, made me nervous but it worked. I think a lot of people make their own out of hardwood like oak, just remember to drill a hole at the top to put your pull cord through. Don't use a screw in eye bolt. I bought one of these and it makes all the difference to me, slides in and back out easily, $13. You'll spend that on wood and your time is worth something, right? http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648831-Nissan-Timing-Holding/dp/B0002Q8TV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443546200&sr=8-1&keywords=datsun+timing+chain+tool

I've never done it before but I've been told the cam can be replaced by jacking the front of the motor up to clear the radiator, if it needs replacing. I think I would end up pulling the head because of all the other stuff that would have to come off too, like the rocker arms and that retainer that needs to be replaced. I don't like working on the top of the motor in the car, the fenders are too thin and I always forget that.

I was thinking y'all were drunk or something.

Does your N47 towers have the holes for a spray bar? Mine did. You may need to source the block off plates.

I looked at mine yesterday and I'm NOT using the one that was on my '72 240. The '71s, until August, didn't even have one according to this microfiche. here's the different ones. My '72 had the small cap one in this picture. Now it has the L28E one. I checked zcarsource.com and MSA with no luck, sorry. Maybe somebody will help out, or you could find one at a junk yard? Good luck.

That'd be a great job for me! Very little actual work, just pointing out flaws and drawing smiley faces. I'm guessing they didn't get paid though? Illegible handwriting, -1 Sweat droplets on form, -1 Total score, 98. Nice! Thanks for sharing.

When I sent my cam to Schneider they used it as a core trade in and sent a nice clean cut cam back to me, I marked mine with a Dremel engraving bit to see. If you have some spare towers I'd use them, peace of mind for the future. I cleaned mine with 600 grit and WD-40, just enough to get a shiney finish inside the cam towers.

They've come a long way since the Womp Womps I had. And Cox cars, oh boy, those were the days.

See what vacuum you have, 15 hg and above is good. You'll need good vacuum to actuate the a/c idle increase.

Now that I think about it, I'm using the one that was on the 240 originally. It ran better with the adjustment hole maxxed out towards the top, counter clockwise I think. Patcon may be onto something there. Maybe the ZX plate has more adjustment? Maybe I need one!

I forgot I had half of my motor in my spare bedroom! You need that plate and then turn it 180 degrees. Here's mine;

Okay, I saw your other post with the pics. Looks to me like you're missing the adjusting plate? or whatever it's called.

Look at Blue's pictures here, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html It looks to be more around 8 o'clock.