siteunseen

If you do it right it will be okay. It has to fully cure and have a good clean surface to stick to. I'm hoping the Tech Tip guy will let you know about his tank with just an acid wash. He works a lot and then is off for a week or two and is very active on here when he can. If you don't want to coat it call a radiator shop and see if they can vat it to clean it. Ask them what they do with fuel tanks. Good luck whatever you decide.

Okay the 4 screws are the same length front and rear. No stacking washers.

I found a thread with the different valves and something I totally forgot about. '72s have different length mounting ears for the floats. Fronts are longer or deeper to make up for sloshing back on acceleration. You have to use multipile washers on the front valve. They call it stacking.

I just noticed you don't have the needle valves like I have. Are those the original ones from 100 years ago? I don't think they are. OE Nissan has a rounded tip. Your's are squared off. Maybe they were from a closed Z supplier now, Black Dragon? They sold rebuild kits.

Is that water or gas? Seems like i read it makes a difference but DANG! thats way off from mine. I have know idea Sir, sorry. It should sit level in my opinion. Another thought. Maybe your glass is so much wider allowing it to do that? The float chambers might keep it level because of their smaller diameter. You need some dried beef!

Math escapes me on Sundays, my only off day sort of, my shortest work day. But it sounds like you have it. I got lucky with that jar. It's barely larger than the float chamber. And yes from the roof. This picture is dissceiving.

I wouldn't. You'll get flash rusting. The man that did the Tech Tip, @240260280, didn't coat his without issues. So I suppose after the acid then neutralize with baking soda it doesn't rust? May he'll chime in and shed some of his vast wisdom on this. Oh yeah, order the coating as soon as you can if you've decided to go that route.

What about these? They're cheap enough to try. https://zcardepot.com/products/su-carburetor-air-horn-velocity-stack-240z?variant=31930200850545&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv4Pu66ut7AIVDY_ICh3d2QA4EAQYAiABEgID5PD_BwE Don't know if you've seen this thread.

If you have any 1/4 drive sockets you can fit one under the tang and use it to bend the natural hump back in. If you don't have a socket you'll think of something that will work. Under the tang in the red circle.

Here's a pretty neat way from @Richard McDonel. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62557-float-bowl-overflow/?do=findComment&comment=580586

This one looks good (kinda high though IMHO). The other one you could get some needle nosed pliers and try to straighten it up. I don't think you can buy the floats anymore???

Yes. I scratched a line in a glass jar that was 23mm from the lid's roof then hooked up an old pump and got them dead on. Never looked back, they have been rock solid for 4 years now???? The jar was one of these from my grocery store.

Or if you want to go full blown you could do what I did but it was in the dead of winter and I was bored as hell.

If you have the newer style needle valves they wont support the float. The blow in right side up and raising the float until air stops is the best way I found to adjust the tang.

O'reilly's keeps this stuff in stock. $32.99, it's gone up a little. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/red-kote-3359/chemicals---fluids-16461/maintenance-chemicals-16867/specialty-25137/fuel-tank-liner-19609/7af7d4e3bb57/damon-industries-red-kote-fuel-tank-liner/redkote/4185410

Okay, here's what I've found. Not necessarily in order so you should read them all. I'm posting specific replies on many threads so click on my username and it'll take you straight to my post. "siteunseen replied to a topic 0/0/00" To get started off with a laugh there's this... Here's the new sending unit you may want to replace... Here's a good read from woodworkerb... http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/ I cannot find my step by step on this! I'm tired of looking too so here's what I can think of today. material: quart of red kote. quart of acetone. 1 box of baking soda. 1 gallon of muratic acid. at least 4 five gallon buckets. gloves and goggles, maybe a respirator but you can just not breathe the fumes when you smell them 1. cover all the vent openings, I used Gorilla tape I think. 2. get a bucket half full of water and a pound of baking soda. set it aside. 3. pour in the gallon of acid in and carefully but quickly rotate the tank all around. let it eat for about 5 minutes while you constantly keep it rotating. 4. pour the dirty acid in an empty 5 and stay away from those fumes! 5. pour the water and soda mix in to neutralize the acid. rotate that all around and dump it into another empty 5 6. pour the quart of acetone in and rotate it all around. dump it out in a bucket. 7. then as quick as you can uncover all the holes and put a leaf blower in the big hole and get the tank dry ASAP. You want to get the moisture quick or it'll flash rust. 8. pour the quart of Red_Kote in and rotate it all around for a few minutes. set the tank on top of a 5 so it will drain the left over out. while it's draining jab the vents with weed eater cord or guitar strings or what ever you have. 9. put the tank outside in the sun for the rest of the day rotating it every so often until the red kote sets up. 10. put the tank away for at least a week. it's cured when you can no longer smell the red kote. the longer the better. 11. sit down with at least a six pack and pat yourself on the back. That's it for me today, I'm no typer so I gots to rest but I'm on here everyday and will help you as best I can if you decide to clean it yourself. Some people get them done at a radiator shop. I don't think they can get the film from the vatting tank off good enough to let the coating seal inside the gas tank. That maybe what happened to yours. One more thing I remembered. I think I used a bungee cord hooked to one of the holes on the end of the tank to hand it from above to drain the different stuff out. I'm not thinking the tank will rest on top of a 5 gal. bucket. Read the red kote instructions 2 or 3 times. Write out your plan and leave it out so you can check it real quick.

It cost me $50 and a Saturday afternoon to do mine the way I figured from that Tech Tip I showed you the other day and after reading Red-Kote's instruction sheet. I think your's has coating settled in the bottom. At first I thought it was rust like the sides have, definitely rust on the sides. I think the previous owner had it cleaned and coated either himself or a radiator shop did it. He put it back in and then fuel too soon now you have what you seen. I bought everything at Lowes hardware but a few empty 5 gallon buckets, I get those free from work. Speaking of work. I need to go down there a an hour or two but when I get home I'll find my write up I posted for someone a few years ago and link it in this thread. Sometime this afternoon. Don't spend your $600 yet. Muratic acid and some baking soda from the Dollar Store, acetone and a quart of Red-Kote. You'll be set. Give me a couple of hours. Cliff

After acid and baking soda then acetone. Then Red-Kote Mine turned out good but it was very much a process thing. You have to do things in order and fast. Sometimes people get in a hurry to get them back in and don't wait out the curing time. It takes every bit of a week. I was rebuilding my motor so mine sat for a month before I put it back in. Somebody was talking a replacement tank a month or two ago that is now being reproduced. I'm thinking $600? Here you go.

Awe man that's needing an acid wash. I don't see any red kote just rust. I can find some info on my cleaning tomorrow. The Tide is on now so I'm OUT. What is this? Looks like my middle school science project.

Oh there's pictures! Old timey paper kind. I'll make copies of some of them.

I'm sorry! The vents will work just as well and much easier. The "ins" have the jets on the other side. STUPID, STUPID, STUPID! Thank you, I get confused on Saturdays in the fall. I'm lying. I'll be confused Monday a.m Those are some beautiful carbs, Paltech does good work.

Where are the coils wires? Maybe they're tucked under? Looks like the air box is taped up in the front. What's the story on that? Your back 3 are missing spark or too much fuel for sure. If it'll crank and idle at all, do that and pull one plug wire at a time and see what it does. Just saw the tank photo. It looks good and clean.

The disable button makes the rpm raise? That is odd, it makes mine run half on everything. My easy thing first suggestion would be to poke on the floats through the fuel inlet with the red straw that comes with WD-40. They maybe stuck in the bowls from shipping dry?