siteunseen

Seems like people had to cut the tunnel AND the console on the early 240 5 speed swap-in? Or do the modified shifter. https://www.google.com/search?q=hitting+console+5+speed+swap+classiczcars.com&oq=hitting+console+5+speed+swap+classiczcars.com&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigAdIBCTUxMDIyajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

@Av8ferg you sure can relate to this. 😁

Sounds like it's running out of fuel in the float chambers? Try sticking a little hose down the over flow bung on the lids. The little small red ones off WD-40 work good at pushing down the floats. They should push down and bounce right back up if there's fuel after you run it.

I've been driving mine in daytime only after reading over and over of Mr Irwin's upgrade. I don't use the headlights or wiper blades until my lazy self installs his updates. Hasn't been an issue so far as I only get to drive it on occasion but still those, hopefully still available, are a must on my 240.

I bought mine through Nissan dealership right down the road. Got them next day but Nissan's are smooth now with arrows pointing the flow. 240zrubberparts did have the braided a few years ago. Zcardepot might too. Good luck.

I had to trim some places on my '77 280's six to 1 MSA header but not the oil pan. Mine rubbed the bell housing and I had to cut out the intake manifold's vertical heat shield for the center 2 runners. FWIW

How old is the exhaust? I had an 325is that would pop out the back downshifting. The muffler was bad but I liked it.

I'd spray the heater valve with some type lube, I think I use white lithium something or another. That's the most likely leak in my opinion. Somebody told me to drain my coolant and refill with water to check for leaks, a little easier to dry out if you do have a leak.

I'd be careful pulling the chokes on also. The nozzles haven't been moved up and down in 10 years so maybe loosen the wires and pull them down by hand. Get those loosened up so you won't break the choke lever mount on the console. Also feel the "J" hoses from the nozzles to the the float chambers and make sure they aren't hardened. Good luck waking your baby/beast?

If you cover the valve train with oil, charge a couple of batteries and change the fuel filter you can bypass all the gas tank stuff by taking the pull hose off the fuel pump and put it in a new gas jug with fuel then bungee cord it down in front of the radiator, pull the coil wire off and spin it over. I think I'd take the plugs out for easier rotation to get new fuel and oil throughout the motor then new plugs and it should at least sputter. That's all I had to do to get mine running then I tore it all apart and replaced with new parts from bumper to bumper.

Reminds me of a Rubik's cube, remember what doesn't work then you get it figured out. Pet rock not so much.

If you had a calculator for lash pad size you'd have a helpful program people could use insted of "try different sizes". I can't afford all the different sizes.

I used a straight edge from the end closest to the firewall to the front to make my marks. So I know I'm over thinking this but it makes sense to have the lobes pointing up and even with the center of the cam towers to set my valve clearance. I realize the whole motor tilts so if it is installed upside down the lobes should still be in line with the center of the towers, right? Thanks for your reply

Does this affect valve adjustment in anyone elses opinion? Seems like the base of a lobe would hit full on the valve stem later with the tilt of the motor? I put center lines on top of the cam towers to use as my "straight up" reference point when pointing the lobes up for adjustment. I'm trying to make sense of this so any and all of your opinions would be very much appreciated.

Use "siteunseen classiczcars.com" and it'll crawl my arse.

Mine wouldn't fully engage 5th because the shift rod hit. You'll see marks where they hit and you grind that down some and it'll go in and stay in 5th. Post #16

I really want him to understand temporarily remove and keep up with it, pictures with date stamps are great. There's nothing I can remember that isn't related to a bigger thing. No parts are there for no reason. You can get away with it now that there so old but some inspections are about original "appearance". You don't want someone to see a bolt zip tied to a hose. If you're going to do that try and hide it if you can. I guess it all depends on your end game. "Carry on"

You need to plug the lines you think are useless with bolt or similar, I used golf tees on the smaller ones. Once you're sure then get brass plugs for the final dress up.

Google images will help you, try it and see if you can find the drain. Damn! You've got my opening 24 hours of topics all about you and your car. Slow down. It's free advice, we're not charging by the hour.

"Internet wisdom" that's too funny an oxymoron like "model prisoner". I've read that as well and I've always used the cone shaped cast iron prop, Asin one too. From what I remember it was the steel impeller causing electrolysis and freezing up the steel bolts in the aluminum front cover? Both my Zs had the OE cast iron pumps and they were still flowing great. I think they're designed better on side by side comparison. I'm an old timer!

@jalexquijano

Use the tire calculator that is in that thread. The 195 is the sidewall size. The lower number is the width, for mine they're 50s for width or rubber meets the asphalt footprint.

I've got 15x7 0 offset Rewinds with 205/50 Hankooks on my '72 and am very happy with the fitment and price. That thread says Falken tires but I was wrong. The 15s are Hankooks and I have Falkens on 16" rewinds on my '77.