siteunseen

That's something to remember because it hasn't happened on mine YET. Thanks for the post.

My '77 with MSA's 2.5 with Dynomax muffler hangs diagonally. It's the most out of the way position on my car.

Good to hear. Do you still use your dash pot? I took mine off for a short trip and didn't like the clunky feel while changing gears so I put it back on and found a small screw under the white cap for adjusting. It was holding my RPM's up about 300 more than idle so I had to pull the pedal up with my foot to bring it back down. Now it barely touches the linkage stop at idle. I've just about de-bugged everything finally.

I used my cordless fingers to bend the WOT vane a little and it helped a lot. And I've been thinking about adjustment on the AFM. I'm flowing so much more air with the header and 2.5" exhaust, also opened up my intake to match the N42 head intake ports, I believe that it needs tweaking a bit. I've put the 500 miles on and am going to change the oil and plugs and let my mechanic friend with all the tools fine tune it. He's got one of those high dollar timing lights and a CO measuring device and knows how use a OHM meter, which I can't. Thanks for all your help.

My car ran bad before I rebuilt the motor so I did a bunch of stuff trying to make it better like messing with the TVS. So now it runs almost perfect, it's like I'm in a dream or something, but at 2800 to 3000 it is like a power band kicks in. I've adjusted the TVS up and down for the past week and still can't get it right, I'm close right now so I'm asking, at that RPM the WOT contact is closed I suppose, so does the width between IDLE and WOT need to be farther apart? In my mind since it runs so much better when WOT is closed they should be closer together. Almost as soon as it's off idle contact it should be on the WOT contact. But I've learned to do right the opposite of what I think is best. So somebody that's closer to normal thinking help me please. On another exhaust note I'm at 467mi. on my way to 500mi. break in, WHUPEE!

I stumble also. Can anybody help?

I've thought of another good return for my money spent on my rebuild, polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension. There are cheaper ones on ebay but people complain about them for some reason or another. I got the Energy Suspension in black for around $165 and with the motor out you can install most of them a whole lot easier. Go through your rack and pinion steering also while the motor's out.

Take a bunch of pictures before you tear into it. Go to your local building supply and get some lacquer thinner and some small wire brushes, brass for the pistons, they're in the welding section and look like a toothbrush. You'll need a roll of painters tape and a Sharpie for labeling things as well as a box of zip-lock baggies for small parts. I left the bolts in the part and put a small wire on the backside to hold them in place or a paperclip. Put your stuff in boxes and write what's in the box on the boxes, you can keep them in the hatch. Clean and clean then clean some more, you'll be glad you did. Zedyones thread on his rebuild has the dimensions for a wooden crate you can build for your motors. I built one out of 2x6's but I think 1x6 would do and put wheels on the bottoms. I had never built one of these engines and Tom Monroe's "How to rebuild your L series" book from amazon.com was the best $20 I spent. Step by step instructions with lots of pictures.

What I've Learned: Sam Cabiglio Mechanic, 66, Monterey, California Cabiglio, who has been rebuilding Porsches and street-racing cars since the 1960s, manages Jerry Seinfeld's vast collection of classic Porsches. Italian cars have always been beautifully designed, beautifully sculpted, wonderful to drive, emotional — but not always reliable. It's kind of like how a really, really attractive female may be a delight, but she may also be a little bit of a pain. You could add maybe 20 percent more power to a VW, but I needed way more power. So to the horror of my father, I removed the engine from my brand-new '64 Beetle and installed one from a Porsche 356. It was not a 100 percent bolt-in, but it was relatively easy to do if you knew what you were doing. I'll visually massage a car with my eyes. A good car has been built with the desires of an engineer and a designer to be the best that it could be. Your eyes tell you that. It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow. Luxury and convenience and lane-departure warnings and double-backflip auto-this: All this other stuff keeps adding weight and weight and weight and complexity and cost. And ultimately causes more stuff to go wrong down the line. And everybody does it. And everybody does it because everybody thinks, If we don't do it, we're not going to be competitive. Many of the cars that people will malign until hell freezes over, they had personality. Open the glove-box door. Feel how it shuts. Feel how the latch engages. These are the things that convey quality. Luxury equals isolation. When you put a car together, and you turn the key, and it lights up, and you hear that heart beating, it's a drug. I'm a drug addict, and this is it.

A heat gun for a few minutes then 11/16's open end wrench tapped with short sledge hammer got the fill plug loose. It held 1 and 1/2 qts. Redline 75w90. The old looked like Sunkist and Coca Cola mixed coming out, kinda rusty brown. Thanks for the help.

Well that explains my worries. Brand new G3 from tank to pump, clear glass filter right before the fuel rail and they were brown as crap until a few minutes of running. Scared me! But they're looking a lot clearer now after sitting for awhile. Thank you Bonzi Lon.

Bonzi Lon I'm glad to hear from you as I have a question. You're the only one I know of that has red kote in their tank. I'm kinda worried about the ethanol in pump gas now days. Is it going to affect our coating? I plan on changing my G3 filter every oil change, they're inexpensive thank goodness. What do you think?

I'm thinking struts then a paint job and the interior, finally wheels and tires. I need to put the cover back on my TPS too.

No, no I've rebuilt everything and it doesn't shake which is a surprise to me because my old ones were terrible shakers. Think of Elvis Presley controlling my steering on the old ones and Juan Pablo Montoya on this one I've got now.

A finger ring shaped and painted like a burning cigarette would be cool for those trying to quit, uhumm Mr. Grant.

Added or deducted from 500 miles, 150 today, and it was a beautiful thing.

Are these steering wheels not supposed to shake violently? The ones I had in my earlier days would shake cigarettes out of my hand. Those poly bushings are great.

Nissan Hex screw part #01121-02981. You need 12, my dealer's were $.61 each so $7.32. Half of my old screws were bent from over tightening.

Yeah. It would keep a high idle for too long. I turned it clockwise 1/2's at a time until it would fall about 500rpm to idle when I push in the clutch pedal. So now it hesitates at 1500 to 1300 for a second then falls to 800 or 900.

FWIW I turned mine clockwise until it smoothed out comng to a stop. Seems to be working fine.

So heat is ok for the differential fill plug? Mine won't budge. Add on edit: what size wrench will fit male fill plug? 3/4's ?

200 miles of 500 so far. There's a tiger in my tank I just have to figure on how to get him out. Every 50 or so miles I'm gaining 400 rpm's. It's loosening up quick. Temp is to the left of the "F" finally. 3k rpm = 80mph with stock tires and wheels. Couldn't have done it without you guys. Thank You.

Or D) this forum. My favorite.

I live in a small town in Alabama so I spy more Beetle Bugs than Datsuns. But I'll look harder now. Do junkyards count?

I'm getting 19 in. hg off the brake booster tube from manifold. That's good isn't it? It is at the far end of green on my vacuum gauge. Having a hard time getting the timing right though. Trying to do it by ear and my ears ain't too good.