siteunseen

There's 2 drains on the sides of the wipers cowl, the vented piece that covers the wiper motor below the windshield. They drain out behind the front tire's inner fender. I'm not sure that's what you're talking about though but you should clean them out too. I think there's 4 screws where the hood meets that piece then you pull it towards the front of the car and viola! it's out. I blew mine out with an air compressor. Here's some pictures, https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+cowl+drains&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&espv=2&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=gTW5U8cL17PIBP_jgfgK&ved=0CBwQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=620#imgdii=_

Looks like the one that busted is #10, Datsun 240Z Car Heater (To Jul.-'73) The replacement # is B7118 instead of 27118, according to online nissan parts stores Those worm gear clamps aren't original, somebody's been down that road already.

If your fuel filter up front had rusty gas in it I'd imagine the cone shaped one in the fuel pump inlet port is in need of cleaning. Could the coil be failing? You should look and see if there's an oily look anywhere around it, test it somehow, I don't know the procedure though, sorry. If you have had the same plugs for 10 years you should be nice to your baby and get new ones. I'd get a new rotor button and cap too, small $$ for such a nice car.

I e-mailed the guy about the over spray, "Reflection. No overspray." So the rubber weatherstripping around the window frame is reflective.

Alaska joined in January of '59 becoming #49, then Howareya in August, the 50th state. Thanks for the flag facts, I've never seen a burial flag unfurled like that.

That's a 100 lb flower vase I created by accident. Lesson learned- leave the end expansion plug alone. Hands and toes is all we ever see of each other, mysterious group of people. That's a great idea! I'm going to put it in today.

Am I going nuts or didn't you just ask this in another post? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/52590-1970-1973-mechanical-clock-other-gauges-240z-not-working-how-test.html Would you share some of that Panamanian weed?

I just so happen to have a junk L28 block. :stupid:

On the E brake light, make sure the wire is connected on the brake hard line manifold under the reservoirs on the drivers side, push on female bullet connector. On my 280 there's another one under the passenger's seat, not sure about the 240s.

That's off a fuel injection intake, the AAR plumbing. I will get something more suitable for the heat and pressure of the cooling system but it's a temporary fix until this winter when I re-do the heater valve and hoses and reconnect things back to spec.

Where would I get coolant for the carbs before the thermostat opens?

That Amphitheater size television?

I can't plug the hardline running behind the head then into the manifold, then going into the thermostat housing can I? I thought the manifold had to have the heat? It circulates from the bottom radiator inlet on the front cover around the back of the head then through the manifold back to the themostat housing up top then I suppose through the radiator but it is under the thermostat so I guess it does bypass the radiator until the thermostat opens. I'm confused. If I plug all that up I won't have any heat circulating through the intake manifold for the carburetors.

Well damn! I may be without heat. I don't want to remove all that for a long time, when I restore it right, 10 years or so. Those hoses Bart's talking about are your A/C lines, they come in above the frame rail under the battery on my firewall. Here's my crusty valve and pinched hose,

I'm hoping I can use a stubby screwdriver and a mirror to get to mine.

I've ran a straight hose from the bottom coolant inlet to the rear bypass tube for the intake manifold and plugged the cylinder head water outlet. This is temporary until I can get the heater hoses and heater valve replaced, this winter. Thanks for any opinions. Cliff

I'll wait 48 hours

maybe it's the camera's angle but the gaps on the passenger's side of the hood and hatch look wider than the driver's side

Good read, I especially liked the comments.

I'm gonna say that stuff would be hard to bend enough to hook to the heater valve. Mine has some off the shelf lines on it now and they're pinched off from the sharp bends. They need to be pre-formed or bent. The big ones for the top and bottom radiator hoses would be super nice! I'd like to have those too.

Black Dragon! Look at this JGREEZY, Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 iCatalog - Black Dragon Auto

The dealer parts guy has to get out old microfiche and search for part numbers, they don't like to do that or mine don't at least, if it's not on their computer they'll say they can't get it. Searching around the internet for part numbers is what I do then they can punch that in their computers without having to actually work, you get the parts and they'll be happy too. I think he said '84 and older is on the fiche.

I put mine at #3 when I rebuilt the motor, runs great but I don't know where I'll move it too when the chain stretches.

Yes that's it, a cable from your heater control panel hooks there and opens and closes it. Mine is frozen up and crusty. I just got a new water ****-heater valve yesterday from my Nissan dealer, $45.78 tax and all. Part #27116-E4400. After reading everyone's comments on standard heater hoses I may get the original equipment braided ones. They're out there, price wise for sure, $100 for 2 hoses and the firewall grommets. Maybe I'll use the Gates that I have already? Mr Arnett, which hoses do you have? I need to do more researching! It's the middle of the summer and I think I'll run a straight hose from the bottom coolant inlet by the alternator to the metal tube behind #6 that goes to the manifold and drive the tires off it. It doesn't get cold down here until December.

You can see the hoses down in the passengers floor board to the left, on the tunnel where they go into the heater valve. https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+heater+valve+location&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&espv=2&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=Qly0U4DGI8qV8gHasoHYAw&ved=0CBwQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=620 Maybe it was just a weak hose? I've read the aftermarket hoses aren't as good as OE braided ones from Nissan. Somebody could have used straight heater hose and got it pinched making the bend and caused it to burst. Also read you can get the heater core out without removing the dash but it's a PITA. Removing the dash would also be a huge PITA.