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That's one of the many reasons I'm happily single. One of my early serious girlfriends came home to find all the frozen food, racks and ice bucket out of the freezer and my dented DRZ400's fuel tank in there filled with water freezing to pop the dent out. Edit: "happily single" at 50 is an oxymoron I'm learning.

Yep, mine is 21" too. The header is a little lower than the oil pan but not as low as the bottom of the frame rails under the doors.

Cool car! So this is better to her?

Yes, the header for a '77 N47 is what you need with that P79. I've never had a hot restart problem that I can remember, even back in the '80s when I first had a Z. Soooo with these headers you definitely will not especially with your aluminum fuel rail.

You will really like the header at least I do. I put them on both my Zs and the heat reduction in the engine bay is incredible. With that header your fuel rail will feel cool to the touch after running the car. Here's my 280's motor before I put it in. Go to Harbor freight and get an load leveler. With one of those you can do it by yourself. I needed a little push to do it though, it's intimidating having that big of a thing hanging over your car. Thanks to Jeff G 78 and RossiZ again for the "push".

Do you have it connected to the head with the 2 hoses? My barrel connector for the wire to the valve came loose and wouldn't pull the valve open. You can move it with your hands. Back towards the seat opens it for heat, forward to the engine bay closes it.

You see, that's where it will scrape. The lowest point is where the straight pipe goes under the rear crossmember on my cars. If I had those bolt together flanges removed and then straight welded it wouldn't do it. I'm almost positive the header flange is even with if not higher than the oil pan. Pictures later...

If you have a '77 5 speed you might. I did. Install it before you put the motor back in and it'll be apparent if it touches. My 280 with 16s doesn't rub at all. The rear crossmember is bigger cutout is bigger too. That lets more pipe tucking up. My 240s is smaller. The 2.5 won't fit up in there as far and rubs very rarely. I can stop it but sometimes forget. Also it's lowered a touch with 15s and lower sidewall tires. I suppose the OE 240 exhaust diameter is smaller than a 280s? You won't have any problems. You'll most likely need a $20 resonator installed but mine sounds even better with that thing. It was too loud.

Here's mine. Monday is when I can ship this stuff. Cliff

Hey. I have that control too. I'll go get it and send you a picture later today. It's a single knob that goes from OFF through 10. It has a bracket I think, one blue wire and a bare copper line also. I'll look in my car and see if I can find where I removed it from. It was mounted under the cigarette lighter area of the dash I think? There should be two holes somewhere under there. Anyway give me a couple more hours and I'll have it. Found one! Google image search did. Mine looks like this one...

I tried that one too. I couldn't find it on there. It's a "resale everyone else's stuff" web site.

Here's what I have. Looks pretty close to me. It's attached to the drier with a worm clamp. I thoght it would be nicer than that but it's the same as your picture. You pay shipping and it's yours. PM your info if you want it. Cliff

Rubber looks best to me.

Mine is the regular wide B that touched. Came from the factory in my '77. 240 fit fine, no issues with that 5 speed.

Something else I remembered that is a lot easier on carbed cars that have old gas is put the fuel pickup in a small jerry can of gas, bypassing the fuel tank altogether. Run a hose from the "in" on the fuel filter behind the radiator to the gas can. You can strap it down and go for a short ride in your new "ride". The fuel tanks are bad to crud up and rust if they're left sitting low of fuel.

I had the wrong cap on a Nissan D21 pickup, forever it seems now, that would jump spark and ran like garbage when I tried to accelerate too fast. It ran fine as long as I pampered the pedal.

Don't try to crank it yet with that 10 year old gas. Drain that crap then put a filter straight out of the tank. This is a 280's but you'll get the idea. For my 240 a Fram G2 works best. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm Oh yeah, welcome to the forum. A lot of information here plus some laughs, mostly tongue in cheek stuff though. I/we kid around a lot. Post some pics of that 260! We enjoy looking at other peoples stuff.

It could be a ZX rotor button under a Z cap? I have know idea about the compatibility of those two but I do know a ZX has bigger cap and rotor. It looks like your rotor button is too big to me. If the shaft won't wobble I would do what Mark suggested and get the right combo from Bosch. $10 maybe???

My 6 to 1 MSA header barely hit my 5 speed transmission. Had to grind some aluminium off the transmission so be aware of that.

I've read that too. Keeps the heat from the exhaust manifold from burning up your oil pan gasket or hardening from constant heat would be more like it.

I've got that whole York system off my '72 in my storage building somewhere. It's raining like a cow pissing on a flat rock now but maybe this Saturday I can look for it? I will let you know ASAP.

Well that ain't happening!

It's rust mort.

I used SEM Rust Inhibitor with good results. It'll turn whatever you put it on black but it will not rust any worse. EDIT: maybe it was "Rust Mort"?

Which rings will you use? I bought Hasting's chrome faced for mine. That was about 2 or 3 years ago, maybe I should check the compression numbers.