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I could tell you the way I've done 2 so far with Red-kote. Cost $50 a few years ago. Muratic acid, redkote, baking soda, 5 gallons buckets and about a month to completely cure. That could be cut down to a week if you keep it in sunlight. Read over these instructions and see if you may want to try it. I can find my post from back then and let decide. It's easy but time sensutive and yoy have to get your "ducks" in a row. $$$ was my decider.

The brackets changed to a higher speed "bump" upgrade. There totally different from what I've seen but it can be done.

Not knowing much other than what the pros have stated I would put the bpes5 in cylinder #4 and run it, check the color. All other plugs look really good to me.

I think you did good there, get away from that "Far" something or another race cam the Datsun Whisperer rebuilt it with. Here's what got past me but not these other guys about two #10s. Silly mistake but when do you know if it's a reoccurring thing. Secretary building motors?

Found a good thread on this.

I wrapped electrical tape around my E dipstick for my 240 until I found a better one. There's definitely a difference in a 280 vs 240. I was overfilling the 2.4 when I had a 2.8 stick in the block.

I do it all the time!

No chance of contact with a piston? Just trying to beat @jalexquijano's questions. Thank you Mark.

You got me Captain, I thought you were kidding. It is Saturday night so...

Learned something new. Thanks Mark! Is it the porcelain tip part or the overall length of the plug? Gap stays the same?

I used a .22 caliber wire barrel brush from my gun cleaning kit. 5/16" on my 280. Worked good for me but was nerve wracking the way I tied it with picture hanging twisted wire. Maybe I wouldn't do it again on second thought.

Yes sir! Thanks to @240260280 Read down to the middle for orientation pictures. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/index.html

From experience, buy new lock nuts for the TC rods, strut rods, whatever. They are one use originally and I reused mine not knowing any better. Thankfully I heard one scraping the concrete after backing out of my garage. Found the cupped washer and the front bushing in the driveway. Lucky me.

Bingo!

I'd get the OE hood. My '72 has absolutely know hot/heat running issues and it's hot down South.

*just a guess* The speedometer cable from the transmission to the engine bay?????

Thanks for the idea Mark. I'm having trouble sleeping these past few weeks so I decided to mix up a warm nightcap of Pine sol topped off with some whipped oven cleaner. Having a hard time finishing this post, getting very slee

You are right. They are SM needles. I looked at the receipt from ztherapy. Sorry about that. ?

A leaf blower in the big hole works good also. You can still get, or at least 3 years ago, a new sending unit from your local dealership. I have p/n and you definitely need that when you call them. My guy usually gets parts the next morning. I found a helpful thread or whatever from woodworkerb.com http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/

They look perfect except #4 as you said. Have you tested the electrical spark to the plugs? You could have a misfire on #4 from one of the components of the ignition system. Distributor cap, rotor button or a faulty spark plug wire. Now it seems like you have a petronix system??? With the car running at idle pull the #4 spark plug wire off the spark plug and listen for any change in motor sound. When you pull off each wire cap it will make a small difference in the sound of the motor. If #4 doesn't make a distinct difference in the motor sound running it would be an electrical problem. If not that I would think it could be an internal fuel leak causing the darker plug color. A bad intake valve not seating completely thus letting more fuel into the combustion chamber. That's about all my limited mechanical thoughts are. Maybe a MUCH smarter man, @Mark Maras could offer more information? You are doing excellent diagnosis! Keep up the good work and do not get frustrated.

That'd be the cheapest way to go carbed, like Jeff said above, buy a 240 motor with carbs and all the bits. Rebuild them for $200, if they need be, and slap them on. I bought one for $300 complete from a guy that put a V8 in his 240. I have a whole setup for my 280 to switch over when I get super bored. Hell, maybe I'll start on it tomorrow. Covid-19 paid vacation but now it's getting old. Saving money on belts though.

I just got back from a post hibernation drive. Cranked right up on the 3rd turn of the key. The float chambers were empty I'm sure from evaporation. After 30 seconds or less the oil gauge was up and I left out driving slow through the neighborhood but no stumble at all. Ran great! Never had a warm up issue and my heat/coolant line through the carbs is bypassed. Mine run best cooler. 3 screw round tops adjusted right are solid as a rock.

They came with my rebuild kit from ztherapy. My car runs very well them but honestly that's all I've ever had with a rebuilt motor and carbs. Nothing to compare against. Somewhere on their website it says they're a good all around needle.

Yeah, turn the volume up or get a louder exhaust. Temp and oil pressure gauges keep an eye on, and as long as it's moving you're good.