Captain Obvious

Thanks for the fog light pics. So my "F" switch clearly is just something that a PO stuck in there and I'll never know the intent. I'll pull it and plug the hole.

Assuming you could find a suitable stainless, I think it would work just fine. I think the rust you often see on them comes from the non-stainless parts that come into contact with the shims, not the shims themselves. In other words, I don't think the shims are rusted at all... I think that rust is just mechanically transferred onto them by rubbing against other rusty parts. @Patcon, are the shims magnetic?

Glad you got it worked out. Perfect timing. I'll be posting a new version with the changes to the rear lights soon. You can plot out the new one then.

Sendcutsend has .030 thick stainless. That's the thinnest they list. @Patcon, what's the thickness of those anti-squeal shims?

I took a peek behind the dash today and there isn't anything hooked up to the "F" switch and my blue tape Easter Egg is still intact and unwrapped. I did make another discovery though while I was back there as well... The wire colors for the rear rear taillights needs work. There are some errors on the diagram.

Cool. Sounds like good progress. So how's the lean running thing? Is that still gone?

Wow! No kidding you've been busy!!

Funny you should mention that... I haven't dug deep into the details yer, but I got this going on here. Thoughts?

I don't think any of that is at my end. I think all the printer settings should be at your side. I'm no tech guru, but I'm pretty sure I can't do anything about that?

Thanks again for the help guys. I added the speaker wires and here's the latest. I've been trying to stay very close to the original diagram style and wording, but I agree with the use of the designation "cooler". I changed it to "blower motor". I have no outstanding known issues at this point. If anyone turns up a problem somewhere, let me know. Lower resolution thumbnail pic good enough to get the idea, but if you want a higher quality version, download the pdf. <V5.0> removed in favor of newer version below later in the thread

Got it, and you're right. I glommed onto this thread because it was talking about the seals, but the original intent was the later style. I'm the one who's guilty of the time shift into the older O-ring style.

I think those are for after they went away from the grooved valve cover and moved the seal to the cap.

Thanks for the help. Strange that the OEM wiring diagrams include the radio, but don't include the speaker. And I will most certainly add a speaker icon. Still not sure how to connect it, but I'll add one! So here's a couple pics of an early radio, but not the earliest. It's the one with the horizontal antenna switch, not the vertical one: I'm assuming the blue wire is 12V power in (because of the fuse and the noise filter choke ). Then that would make the other two the speaker connections: And here on the chassis side, I've got this connector: This connector seems to have basically the same colors as the one that goes to the radio. Blue power, plus the W and W/B for the speaker: But the connector shape and is different than what you posted above? And your's has four wires, while what I have here only has three? I guess I need to see where that W and W/B go.

Oops. Probably my mistake. I knew it was just the "early" valve covers, and I assumed that "early" meant "2400". I may have been a little to confining with that.

Here's the latest version of this diagram. I made it more clear what was on each side of the firewall bulkhead, and also changed the oil pressure sender wire color from Y/W to Y/B. <V4.0> removed in favor of newer version below later in the thread

The grooved valve covers designed for an O-ring were only the early valve covers "2400" style. The later style design had the seal as part of the cap like your car.

I figured that somebody went through that. I sent you PM. Thanks for the help!

So the O-ring for the early 2400 valve covers. Anyone got a source for those? Fits in this groove as pictured above: I assume it would be easy to measure the size and find a suitable replacement, but I also assume someone has already done that work so I don't have to do it again?

Here's what happens to the inside of the ignition switch after it switches the starter solenoid a bunch of times: And here's what you should do about it (note that this is for the manual trans. The auto already has a relay, but as mentioned above, they didn't wire it like this):

I've never liked the way they run the starter solenoid current directly through the ignition switch. I think they should have put a relay between the switch and the solenoid. That solenoid draws like 8-10 Amps and really chews up the contacts in the switch. Kinda stupid how on the automatic they DID put a relay in, but didn't actually use the relay to switch the starter solenoid current. They just used it as an interlock. They COULD have put the inhibitor switch on the contacts and the pull in coil on the ignition switch (instead of vice-versa). Operation would have been identical, but it would have switched the higher current load side with the relay.

Oh, and your AFR numbers look great too. And just for a data point, they are pretty much the same as my 77. Idle should be a small amount rich, cruise could be a small amount lean, and WOT should be about two points lower than the others. On my 77, mine runs a little leaner at cruise. Not sure how I managed to do that, but I'll run low 15's at light load cruise. But if I stick my foot in it, it'll snap down to 12.8 just like yours. Kinda cool to feather the gas pedal right where the WOT switch on the throttle body opens and closes and watch the AFR gauge snap back and forth between 12.8 and 14.7.

Awesome. I love it when a plan comes together. If you get energetic and want easier trimming of the gauge position, use a 200 Ohm pot instead of 2K. It would be less sensitive and easier to adjust.

And let me guess... You've never seen Aircraft paint remover either:

Those numbers look great. Here's hoping it was as simple as bad gas!! Hope it doesn't come back!!!

I looked at an early car here and the oil pressure sender uses the Y/B. So the Y/W must go to the temp sender. I'll update my diagram.