Captain Obvious

SWMBO has a 2002 Boxster.  I'm not a "Porsche Guy" and I know very little about it.

Are we at risk for the IMS bearing issues or is that a different model/year?  I don't want to work on it. Ever.

Hate to break it to ya, but a Z32 300ZX is challenging to work on even if it DOESN'T have the turbos.

I sold my 94 and bought my 77. The 94 was a "better" car in just about every respect, but despite that, I've never looked back!

Been there too, done that too.

Made up some new words too.

Yup. Measurement technique error. Measuring 12V between C and E makes perfect sense. I was figuring it was something like that.

Zed, Both transistors bases are driven from the same source and I highly doubt there is a problem with that base drive circuitry. My guess is that the output transistor went belly up open circuit.

Haha! My pleasure. I'm just glad someone picked up the movie reference and doesn't think I've got an Anal Intruder here at the house.

I think that movie was underappreciated.  She who's bosoms defy gravity...

Took a look at the prospect of a ground fault taking out three injectors. It is possible, but very unlikely. And the fault would have to be inside the ECU itself, not a harness issue.

Hi marks Zed.

The "B" leg is the actuator signal
The "C" leg is connected to the injectors. Three injectors connected to each C.
The "E" leg should be tied hard to ground.

The voltage readings you got with the same voltage on both the C and E legs doesn't make sense, but I suspect it's a measurement method issue. Or maybe there's an intermittent ground issue. I don't remember the details of the ground scheme, but depending on how they actually did it, you might be able to drop three injectors with a carefully placed ground fault. I'll dig into that a little more when I get a chance.

Just be very careful poking around in there with power on. One slip and you can let the smoke out. 

Nicholas, I'm about a half hour from you in the burbs. Send me a PM and we'll chat.

Have you tried one of these?

I would try to source a replacement ECU before I would try a component level repair on the old one. Those kinds of repairs sometimes spiral into unexpected complications and I wouldn't try it unless you had verified the failure first and had a backup plan in place.

I've got a spare ECU (from a 77) if you just wanted to try one to see if it fired all six injectors. I was told that it gets squirrelly on hot days after it heats up, and I have verified that it tests fine on the bench when cool. Would work at least to confirm that your ECU is the problem.

If you got 11.9 on all six injector pins at the ECU with the ECU disconnected, then yes... It points away from a harness issue and towards the ECU.

I'm thinking ECU. The ECU has two big output transistors that fire the injectors in banks of three, and if one of those transistors burns open, you will lose those three injectors.

There aren't a lot of other things that could cause you to drop three injectors like that at the same time. As you already noticed, the dropping resistor does four and two so that's probably not it. And while it is  possible that the wiring to the front three of the injectors is screwed up inside the harness, I consider it unlikely. Why? Because each injector gets it's own independent wire from the ECU to the injector. So sure... It's possible that a PO cut three of those wires, but I consider it more likely that the ECU is the root cause.

I'm in the Philly area if you get stuck. I'm no FI expert, but I know some stuff. PM me if you need a hand.

Volleyball and Z's? You go brother!! I played last night! Tough match against a good team, but thankfully we won two out of three.

And now it's days like today that I wish I had power steering in the Z... 

I'm not sure if picture hanging wire you would find at a hardware store is going to be good enough for this. You definitely need something pretty high quality for this. You definitely need something heat treated. Probably tempered back from full hard, but certainly not something annealed and malleable.

Couple ideas:

Last time I needed a cable for something similar, I went to a junkyard and harvested a cable from another vehicle. Didn't matter what it came from as long as it was longer than what I needed. I then trimmed the jacket and snipped the wire to fit and bent the necessary features on the ends of the wire.

Other idea would be to support absolutely as much of the wire as possible. In other words... Extend the jacketing beyond the clamp(s) as far as you can before they start to interfere with the movement of the actuating arm. I don't know anything about the 240 control head as all my experience is with later designs, but it looks like you might be able to extend the jacket a half inch or more to help support the cable before it gets to the arm?

Need a screen? Use a couple handfuls of that swarf!! 

Nice machining work! Is that adapter aluminum or steel?

As with most cars, reverse is not synchronized. That means in order to shift into reverse without grinding, all the guts inside the transmission must be dead still before the reverse teeth engage or they will clash.

When the clutch is depressed, even if everything is adjusted correctly there is often still enough drag on the clutch disk to keep it spinning with the flywheel and pressure plate unless there is something that makes it stop. This is even more prevalent when the tranny oil is hot and thin. The friction from cold thick gear oil will stop the spinning quickly, but hot thin oil may not.

Shifting into any forward gear will stop the internals, and then a quick shift into reverse should go in without any grind.

Haha! Like the diff straps! Reminds me that I'm still running the original "temporary" one I made up before ZCON.

I need to finish up that project and make a better one. At this point, I guess I'll just wait for the off season.

I think I understand the problem now.... The mounting bushing on the new antenna is not designed to be used on an angled surface like the original was. Or at least not as extreme of an angle?

Any chance you could just use the old dome from your original antenna to give yourself the adjustment you need? Or is it dust?

Maybe a belt sander to the bottom of the new bushing to angle the surface to better match the contour of the body? Could you do that such that the modified surface is hidden down inside the rubber seal? Some black or clear silicone schmutz to help with water ingression?

I'm not sure I understand the problem... Is it that the body tube an the aftermarket antennas is too long to allow you to swing it into place?

Are you sure it was pizza and not Farmer Vincent's fritters.

Oh wait... You said it was a movie that was NOT horrible. Nevermind.

Been a long time since I've looked at a carbed fuel rail... Are there insulating plastic bits to act as a thermal break between the head and the rail?

I've got a speedo from a 78 that has both MPH and KPH on it. Would that be of any interest?

Chas, Looks great. Good luck with the project.

I've never messed with any of that stuff, but if there's anything I can do to help, just let me know.

Nice work.  You've got a welder and you're not afraid to use it!