Captain Obvious

I wonder how the people who already purchased sets of these would feel to be learn that the parts were misrepresented as NOS from the OEM, but are in fact newly pressed repros. If I were judging at a concourse show, I would slam these things hard in my judge eval. I also wonder if the people selling these have properly claimed them (and the value they represent) on their customs import forms. I also question the country of origin as Japan. I wonder how that can be confirmed. I mean, I'm all for parts being made available. And if repros are necessary because originals are unavailable, then I got nothing wrong with that either. But clearly advertise and sell them as repros. Passing them off as OEM or NOS, or rebuilt originals is deceitful.

So earlier there was a question about the crenelated rubber washers for the moustache bar. Anyone have any input into this? Anybody have an idea where the solid ones came from? Some different application?

Hmm...I disagree. I believe the results would be completely predictable. With suitable plugs on the ports, I don't think there would be any question about what would happen! Completely predictable!

I didn't know that either. What's with the lead? Is it in the old formulation of the grease?

You should report that to ebay. I believe if there was no reserve, he is obligated to some degree. You should sic the ebay dogs on him. First for counterfeit parts, then for improper business practices.

Other options on CL for the same parts: Orange Co CA - For sale by "Brad": https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/d/datsun-240z-hubcaps-excellent/6484684385.html https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/wto/d/datsun-240z-hubcaps-excellent/6501221907.html Or the previously mentioned ad from Spokane, WA - Also by "Brad": https://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/d/datsun-240z-hubcaps-excellent/6484688936.html Maybe someone should give Kevin a call. There is a phone number in the CL ad... There is apparently a plethora of these really hard to find expensive parts to be had. In fact, so many, that they shouldn't be either expensive, OR hard to find.

If you decide to completely bail on everything you have done so far and toss the parts, I might be interested in the cut down front spindles for an experiment.

As opposed to the rest of us completely normal and well socialized examples of humanity!

Haha!! I know!! And it's cruel! Cruel to post pics of building the tool, but no pics showing how well it works. Seriously though, it looks like a neat project, and I hope the results turn out great.

Seriously? You posted all kinds of pics of the start of this project and you didn't show any parts that you actually blasted??? Seriously? WOOT! I'd be all over that NOHO like a... Well like a guy who likes a good beer! Hoppy and strong, just like me! And I'm bitter too!!

The coolant that goes through the heater core never goes through the radiator. It comes out of the hot head (at the back), passes through the heater core, and goes back to the water pump inlet without ever passing through the radiator. So the theory is that when you bypass the heater core you allow "too much" heated coolant to go directly back to the water pump inlet without ever passing through the radiator to cool it off. It has been said that this can result in over-heating, hot-spots, or both.

Floors look great. Not sure you blew the core itself, or just one of the lines leading to it. But at this point, you can be glad you don't have the A/C. It makes the heater core and tubing work much easier!

Ummm.... That's six words. You sure you wanted me involved?

Here's a pic of the back of some of the valve at the spoke location, but the pic is a little far away and hard to tell. They are also the fat finger variety:

Here's the pic I found where there were more bends. But these are valve in the center of the hole style. Older I believe?

Haha!! Good eyes! I saw that too and was trying to find some other pics to confirm, but I think we may have found "the tell". I found a pic where I noticed that missing extra bend, but they were on the ones with the valve stem hole in the center of the slot, and not the center of the spoke. It's conceivable that they changed the die and removed those bends when they went to the valve in the spoke location. So is the pic you posted from valve at hole, or valve at spoke?

And that paint is clearly wrong. Way too shiny. And if he clear coated original paint to "protect it" or something, someone ought to take his paint license away.

I was basing recommendations on the original claim that the float bowl levels were correct. If that's not the case, then of course all bets are off! I'm a big fan of the clear tube method of setting the bowl levels. I believe it to be more truthful and more reliable than the other methods (like the ten turn down method). Forget all the other tuning stuff until you get the bowl levels (close to) right. If your rear bowl is near dry, then it would make perfect sense that your rear carb sounds like a jet engine compared to the front, and it still won't run on that carb alone. Just to test other things, you could fill the rear bowl to the correct level and see how the piston lift test performs. The car should run maybe thirty seconds or so on the fuel in the bowls before they run so low the fuel can no longer be pulled in.

I call bullshite. He also has these center caps listed on ebay where he says they are “Very rare caps. N.o.s. Have not install. Stripped, Re-chrome and re-painted.” https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-D-Series-I-Wheel-Covers-caps-Set-of-4-in-Very-Nice-Condition-Nos/122997240189?hash=item1ca334f17d:g:mfMAAOSwjodZ8-rq Out of curiosity... If they were truly never installed NOS, why would they need to be stripped and re-chromed. Maybe he doesn't know what N.O.S. really means? And about the numbers stamped on the backs, the numbers are in sequence. 0135, through 0138. And the parts in all three of those auctions were the exact same parts. Methinks someone is trying to capitalize on the expense of these items. Way too fishy all around. I'd be happy to be proven wrong, but I call "Bullshite."

Just want to make sure I understand... You mean that you increase the idle on the rear carb and the overall idle speed goes up. But even after doing that, if you disable the (FRONT) carb, it shuts down immediately? How much did you raise the idle? Maybe you just need to go a little more? Depends on how far out of balance the two of them are. Open the rear carb some more, and then close the front one to compensate and bring the idle back down to where you want it? What happens if you push on the linkage for each carb independently Does the engine speed come up about the same for each?

Thanks to you and the rest of your planning committee for your sacrifice. Someone's gotta do the dirty work.

Banjo filter is a good idea. Are both float bowl vent nipples hanging open to atmosphere?

End mill. You cut on the tip instead of the side. Poof. Flat bottom slot. Then you use a flat bottom key instead of Woodruff. Plenty of auto manufacturers do it.

Well good luck with the administration of the details. And I hope she doesn't try to deny responsibility for her actions. Out of curiosity, when the cop said he couldn't figure out who hit who... did you suggest that it would be impossible for you to drive your car sideways into the front of hers such that your driver's side door took that kind of isolated damage?

Off the top of my head, I would guess that the carbs airflow at idle isn't balanced and one carb is doing "more work" than the other at idle. Theory being...When you disable the one doing less work, it'll kill three weak cylinders and the engine will continue to run on the other three. But when you disable the carb that is doing MORE work, it'll kill the three strong cylinders and the three weak cylinders won't have enough power to continue to run, and the engine will die. What happens if you hold your hand over the mouth of each carb? Do you have "about the same" suction on each? Does the engine die with a hand over each carb?