Captain Obvious

So just to provide a little clarity, you said that after several hours you were able to get the car to start and pull it back into the garage. How easily did it start? By that, I mean... After it sat for a couple hours, did it fire right up like normal and run fine again? Or did it take a bunch of cranking and sputtering, but then eventually after enough cranking and sputtering and rough weak idle, it finally came back to life and THEN ran normal again? Basically, I'm trying to figure out if there was fuel in your bowls when it sputtered and died. And about this part... Where in the timeline you laid out above did you try this? Is this after the 30 minute idling, but before the several hour wait?

OK, when you put it that way, it sounds like it's not working correctly. In that case, I don't have any concrete suggestions about what to use as a replacement, but I would like to talk some about the "end of the story" and what your end goal is. So... I see you are in California, and are subject to heightened scrutiny of your emissions system. I'm assuming that's why you can't just remove that delay valve completely (as you've seen on most other cars). But your (malfunctioning) valve that passes air easily in both directions is functionally the same thing as removing it completely. I'm not in CA and are therefore not that familiar with their emissions regulation details. Are you telling me that the guys at the inspection station actually TEST that valve for functionality? I mean, I could be easily convinced they compare your engine to a year appropriate picture and look for all applicable emissions equipment, but do they actually start taking tubes off and testing for functionality?

That sounds like it's working perfectly. It's supposed to be easy to draw vacuum through in one direction, and possible (but not easy) to draw vacuum through in the other direction.

The @ Mike was because there was a spammer posted something in your thread right above that. I assume that Mike deleted the spammer's post and banned the account, but he left my call-out post intact. So now the call-out doesn't make a lot of sense anymore, but not a big deal. If it were me, I would have deleted my post as well.

Here's a couple pics showing where that bracket goes: And here's a closer-up trying to get a shot of the mounting hardware: Hope that helps!

OK, got it. So getting into the details about the voltage number measurements you got... I'm pretty sure you already know this, but they don't really make sense. If you pull the all the injector connectors off, turn the key to ON, and measure across the two injector connections inside any of the connectors, I would expect to see a low voltage on all of them. But it's a little unpredictable because of the way the circuit works. One side of each connector should be connected to the battery (through the dropping resistor) and the other side of each connector should be floating pretty much as a no-connect. However, there is a capacitive load on each of those floating sides that could provide some weird numbers if you don't know what you're looking at. You could charge or discharge that capacitor through your meter and the numbers could change as you're watching them. So with all that in mind (and as mentioned above), it would probably be easiest to change the way you are taking your measurements and see what you get when you just measure from the injector contacts to a known good ground instead of measuring between the two contacts in the same shell. I mean, there's info to be gleaned from what you already did, but without being there and seeing what type of meter you're using and watching the numbers for stability, it would be simpler just to re-do the measurements and reference everything to ground.

Were all the injector connectors pulled off at the same time when you were taking those measurements? Also, does the car run better now that you have cycled all the injectors a bunch of times manually?

I did a quick google search for the Nevada 168 manual and came up with a lot of hits. If you can't figure it out just by looking at the wiring, it appears that manuals are out there on-line if necessary. There just can't be a whole lot going on: Constant power Switched power Speakers Antenna control maybe Faceplate brightness control maybe That ought to be about it.

Do you have the faceplate or model number for the Blaupunkt?

Remember Joe Isuzu?

That's not what is supposed to happen... There is mechanical clutch built into the antenna mechanism that is supposed to slip at either extent of travel, If yours grinds to a complete stall at the end of either travel, then I suggest that your clutch is adjusted too tight.

When you measured across the injector connectors... Was this with the connectors attached to the injectors, or with the connectors not plugged onto the injectors? Can you take a pic of how you took this measurement?

Will do. I'll try to snap one tomorrow.

What about the CD player are you trying to reverse engineer?

I looked for that number on RA and couldn't find it. Seems like you did get the last two. And what a deal that was!! Good for you!

I don't see any inner tie rod ends listed at all. You have a part number?

If everything is working as intended, then pushing coolant out into the overflow bottle is not only "not a problem", but it is actually a good thing. There should always be some coolant in the overflow bottle and the level should actually change as the engine heats up and cools back down. When the engine heats up, it pushes coolant out into the bottle, and then when the engine cools back down, it should suck the same amount of coolant back into the engine. I'm actually more concerned that your bottle was ever completely dry. That should not be the case.

The active ingredient in that stuff is "HYDROCHLORIC ACID 7647-01-0 10-20" I wouldn't put that stuff in my aluminum headed Z motor. Especially hot.

That bracket attaches to the dash metal skeleton and provides the mounting points (two) for the underside of the HVAC system. It kinda completes the bottom edge of the "box" around the HVAC controls. It runs (in "U" orientation) between the HVAC control panel and the radio, It is not shown in the parts breakdown above and it has nothing to do with the console or the radio. In fact, if the center console is removed, that bracket stays with the dash. It does not come out with the console. Having a hard time describing that thing with words, so if that's not good enough, let me know and I'll snap a pic.

I don't know what they used back in the day, but last time I looked the label today says citric acid.

Didn't break any old brittle plastic in the process?

The one marked "DEFOG" still controls the rear defroster. I wanted to combine the blue DEFOG indicator lamp with the switch so that would open up the spot above the switch. That way I could put the CHOKE indicator where the blue defog indicator was originally. I intend to run a carb conversion on my 77 sometime (when I finally get around to it). And the switch on the right marked "RECIRC" controls a fresh / recirculated servo motor on my HVAC system.

I took some pics of the kind of stuff I've been messing with... Here's my thin steel adapter plate the I'm using to mount a stock shaped switch on the far right console hole. Note that for the pic, I didn't want to pull the whole console out to take out the switch, so that's why the wires are running through the adapter plate. Also note that I intend to paint the plate black, but I haven't gotten around to that yet: And here's the switch that I'm putting in that location: This is what my switches look like at this point: And with the switches ON:

I would not try to stake them. The risks are just too high. I would use the loctite.

Last knob I had that problem with, I filled the inside with RTV silicone. Changed the weight and I think the elastomeric properties of the silicone helped damp the resonance.