Captain Obvious

Sounds about right. Nice work.

Not much. Shift knob, front caliper hard lines, timing chain guide. I think that's it.

Oh, and I have these NOS. How OEM do you want this thing to be?

So in the rebuild kit they included new O-rings to seal the two halves of the caliper halves together? That's really nice, but a little weird since Nissan recommends never splitting them apart. Old fading brain cells tell me they didn't do that in distant past. Maybe I was just buying the wrong brand kit, but I don't remember getting those little O-rings as part of the rebuild kits.

Really hard to troubleshoot intermittent electrical issues, especially from a distance, but here are my thoughts... First, I suspect the only reason the "fuel gauge" fuse is heating up is because of simple convection and conduction. My theory, which is mine, is that the heat from the A/C fuse is rising and heating up the fuel gauge fuse. And the second part of that theory is that there is really nothing wrong with the fuel gauge fuse system and the apparent heating of the fuel gauge fuse is a simple distraction. And as for why the A/C fuse is heating up so much... Does that fuse and fusible link heat up that much when you run the fan at it's highest speed WITHOUT the A/C being on? In other words, have you checked the temp of that fuse running the fan on HI while the HVAC system is in HEAT mode? It could be as simple as a tired old blower motor with dried out creaky bearings that doesn't want to spin fast anymore. Next, I'm having a hard time coming up with a link between your turn signal fuse popping and the A/C system. You have described a situation where you have the A/C on, and when you turn the signal on, the fuse blows. Have you ever had the situation where the turn signal is on and working correctly and then when you turn the A/C on, the fuse blows? And about the compressor kicking off when the fan is on the highest speed, we can talk about that later. It's probably dirty contacts inside the fan switch.

Also important to note that the 77 and 78 locks are different than all the other previous years because the linkage actuator arms are different shape. Depending on the design of the lock cylinder, you might be able to move your original arms over to new locks, but they would need to have the same shape hole where they fit onto the back of the cylinder.

I'm not sure I would want to stretch a 115 wide tire out onto a five inch wide rim. My thoughts on the matter while I was in the thick of it: "I didn't move the space saver tire over to the 280 original spare wheel because I was worried that the 280 spare wheel was too wide. The space saver tire was originally on a four inch wide rim and the original 280 spare wheel is five inches wide. I wasn't comfortable stretching that narrow tire out to a five inch wide rim. I think you could use a 4.5 inch wide rim, but since I was in there messing around anyway, I took the opportunity to make it as narrow as possible"

Glad to help, and hope you find a cool looking blank for your car!

Yeah, I found that wiki page as well and there's a lot of good info on there. But about your key blank and trying to use one of those titanium keys... Those TI keys are all for the double sided cut and there's no way they will fit your cylinder. Regardless which blank your lock uses, it's a single side cut and those TI blanks are for the newer double side cut. When they describe blanks, they look at the cross section profile from the part you hold in your fingers (they call it the "bow"). And if I modify your pic and flip it around so you are looking at that profile from the bow, it looks like this: And that still looks like an X1 / MZ12 or DA20 / D80K.to me.

You know what they say about assumptions...

If you already bought that lock from ZCD and have a pair of keys, then if you would take a pic of one of the keys head on, it could help in confirming the identification.

MH77280Z, Good luck finding a 195/40/14. I took a quick look at tirerack for that size (or something else that might work), and came up with nothing. Good luck with the search. And note that the project I went through becomes easier if you are willing to deal with a space saver that will only fit on the rear. If you're willing to deal with that, then you can find spares right out of the junkyard that would work. I went the extra mile with swapping rims around, but if you don't want to do that, there are ways around it.

Ghetto?? What are you talking about???

Yeah, I know. Photobucket sucks. Some of them have been reloaded in the second thread.

I'm no locksmith, but those look like X1 / MZ12 or DA20 / D80K. Hard to tell without an end on shot showing the profile. Out of curiosity... What is it you're trying to do? If you buy that lock, don't you get keys with it?

Not really sure what you're asking, but if it's "has anyone managed to fit an always inflated spare into a 77-78 Z?" then the answer is "Yes." https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55424-always-inflated-mini-donut-spare-for-7778/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61903-280z-space-saver-spare-tire-replacement/

Thinking about it more, I'm betting that you won't be able to test much of the turbo capability without a load on the engine. Bottom whatever... Just don't blow your motor up!

Glad to hear the cheap kit worked. And I don't think I would trust thread lock either due to the heat. So do you have the turbo control system? Based on the different distributor, I assume they mess with the ignition timing too? You may be able to account for fuel using the NA system, but unless you're gonna move the distributor with one hand and diddle the pot with the other....

I'd be a little careful with this. The original actuator tip was hardened, heat treated. I'm not exactly what you meant about making a new bolt, but if you started with an off the shelf bolt made out of mystery metal, I'd be a concerned.

Yes, those two wires are for the warning chime. You can find the switch on the wiring diagram labeled as "Steering Lock Switch". On the wiring diagram, you will find it between the dimmer rheostat and the turn signal switch. The colors of the wires right at the switch are shown as red/w and black. I suspect that's what those pair of red/blue wires connect to at the harness end. And as for being able to move the switch over to the new lock assembly, it would depend on how accurately the new aftermarket copied the original assembly. I suspect that the switch might port over OK, but I'm not so sure about the semi-circular black plastic actuator arm. Here's some pics that might help:

That type of cast iron is usually easy to drill and thread. Abrasive to tools, but if you're only doing one of them, not a big deal. So you have a lathe now, right? Make your own insert. Have you tried threading on the lathe yet?

Well that's certainly not the smoking gun we were looking for. Wish I could provide more help on figuring out exactly what's going on.

Woot!! Those multiple failure point situations can get really tough! Glad you finally got it!!

Hmmm... That's about two thousandths. With the mass of the crankshaft and the ooze of the assembly lube, I don't think you would be able to detect that by hand and eye. You're going to have to use an indicator and a pry bar. If the crank spins free and smooth, you're probably fine.

Man, I hate unexplained things... I sure hope you figure out what's going on with those readings. Do you know what it is that the Swedish enlarger pump is looking for? What chemical(s) is it supposed to detect?