Captain Obvious

Yeah, I agree on the stuff from ebay and Amazon. It's really hard to know what you'll be getting. The only way to know for sure sometimes is to buy one and try it. I'm more confident in getting something from Superbright. You stand a better chance of getting something predictable. I don't think a clear lens would buy you much. The white lens does diffusion which is also important. If you had clear, you'd have a hot-spot between your strut towers. The white diffusion lens should throw more light up front and back. Maybe you could test that simply by removing your current lens completely and see how it looked?

Haha! I'll see if I can dig up those two. Here's a Life of Brian reference that flew unnoticed. Near the bottom of page 2 of this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40777-spindle-pin-removal-tool-survey/page-2 And this mention of an aborigine's armpit was the other reference that was never called out. It's also Monty Python, but it's been so long that even I don't remember the origin. Something about wine: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50491-premium-vs-regular-gasoline-smells-different/

Car looks great! And it's really cool that you've managed to hook up with that guy in Barbados. I didn't drive when I was there, but I do remember that everyone beeped shorn horn "Hello. Here I am" bleats to each other. Constantly. So make sure his horn works!

Those 12 LED assys from ebay are 6000K color temp. Nowhere near "warm white". I know it's all personal taste, but I can tell you that I wouldn't like them. As for the other one that has 400 lumens... Did you leave out a link or something? I'm not sure what you're talking about. Did you ever buy some of those six LED bulbs from Amazon? The ones that were turned sideways from what I used?

"I didn't get a harrumph out of dat guy." I was going to just say "Harrumph!" but I was afraid someone might think I disagreed. It's nice to have someone who's got my back on almost all the screwy references I post up here! In fact, I can only remember two that seem to have gone completely without recognition.

I've yet to see a repro that is accurate enough for me not to notice. Either the size, shape, or font used in the inlay is off.

Harrumph! (I agree.)

Well played. Love the wheels. I like how it bulges up in the middle like a sombrero. The bologna... not the wheels.

Haha! That was me who mentioned that the font (of a tag made at a generic metal fab shop) would be different. If I were to look at a car and notice that the VIN tag wasn't the original one and I could tell that it was a repro because the font was different, it would raise all sorts of red flags for me. Explanation from the owner or not, I'd be concerned. I'm not sure if I would be less concerned if the tag was missing altogether. (As explained away by "I replaced the dash because it was cracked." But here is the real issue: Potholez doesn't NEED a VIN tag. He wants a VIN tag. And if he gets a repro with the wrong font, is that "good enough"? I wonder if there are commercial letter/number stamps easily attainable for making better repros... I mean, they're obviously available somewhere to someone, but just wonder if they're available to the general public. Someone with good google-fu ought to look into that. I got stamps, but I have the same ones that almost everyone else has.

True that. What I should have said was that you can have the vehicle inspected by someone authorized to verify the VIN visually (which includes, but is not limited to inspection mechanics). From PennDOT: "If you are unable to locate your vehicle’s VIN plate or you are unable to secure a legible tracing of the plate, contact a certified inspection mechanic or notary public employed by a motor vehicle dealer or issuing agent. These individuals are authorized to inspect and visually verify the VIN when a tracing of the plate is not possible."

Haha! Yes. Yes, it is.

I'm with ya! ribeye... new wheels... ribeye,,, new wheels.

Metal shops could make them but the font wouldn't match. Not sure if you would really care... A mismatched font is better than no tag at all, right? Here in Pennsylvania, you need a pencil tracing of the VIN number when you apply for a PA title for a vehicle formerly from another state. The most common location to obtain that tracing is from the dashboard VIN plate although you can use other locations if they work. And if you can't get a legible tracing anywhere, you can have the vehicle visually inspected by a certified PA State Inspection Mechanic to verify the VIN instead of using a tracing.

I'm no expert on popular forum lingo, but I believe ttt means "To the top". Used to refresh and bump threads to the top of the display.

Good for the environment. Doesn't affect performance. Only drawbacks are weight, complexity, and aesthetics.

That was what I was thinking.

Let me start... "I'm announcing a release date for the HellFire Classic of May 15th." Good thing you didn't announce which year. Hahaha!!

Granny, That's beautiful work, but you're right... You've got the same unprotected connection between the alternator and the battery. Obviously (that's me), everything will work fine under normal circumstances, but it's those unforeseen and unexpected faults that fuses and links help with. I've never looked in depth at any fuse or alternator upgrades until now, and because of that, I've not given the details very much scrutiny. But now, simply by chance, I've been planning some wiring changes on my own car so I have familiarized myself with that part of the system. Do I really really think it's necessary to put some protection in there? Only if something goes wrong.

Here's some pics of a pair of beat up knobs. Since color is affected so much by camera, lighting, and other inputs, I included a can of ubiquitous seasoning for color reference: Here on the bottom, you can see some of the red tint: And here's a close up of the tops where you can see the red clearly on the right and even a little on the non-glued portion of the right side knob: And here's a close-up of the right side top where it looks like the wood looks "plastic". Even if you scrape at the grain down inside the hole, it doesn't flake off like grain should. On the outside where it's weathered you can dig into the grain (especially on the really beat knob on the left), but I think that's more a factor of 40 years of sun weathering and use:

Good thing you're doing here. Just sent you a PM with some requests.

I have also noticed that the OEM knobs are very heavy for their size. As far as I can tell, they are real wood, but I think they impregnated the wood with a sealant or plastic of some sort. Wouldn't be surprised it they used the same process on the steering wheels. And like CanTechZ, the knobs I've messed with looked like they were ORIGINALLY reddish tint. They are all sorts of brown now, but I've chipped busted screw threads out of a couple now and where they were never exposed to light or skin oil, they had a reddish hue. I've got one now with the threads out. The outside looks like the one 71Nissan240Z posted, but the inside looks like CanTechZ's. I'll snap a pic or two if I get a chance.

Nice work. That's gotta be waaaay better than what you started with!

Haha!! I'm not looking for any promotion. That just means more responsibility for not enough pay. I like it right where I am. Good luck with the project and remember... If I'm ever in Barbados or Jamaica, you're on the hook for the tour!

Bummer. Off with her head! If we weren't so far apart, I'd be more than happy to give you a hand getting this thing into tip-top shape.

I took another look at some of the other wiring diagrams (75-78) and verified that there is never a direct connection between anything and the battery positive except for the starter. Everything else is connected through the a fusible link. Take a look at the 75 wiring diagram and trace the white wire coming off the starter solenoid. It goes one and only one place, and that's to a fusible link. I didn't look back beyond 75, but I did verify 75 through 78. Makes sense to me and I wouldn't change that. I've never looked into the "fuse upgrades" that others have done... Is it standard procedure to eliminate that function as part of the upgrade?