Captain Obvious

Providing closure to this project. My power brakes work again, and the booster holds vacuum overnight, so I know it's leak-tight. I put my sticker on, and I'm calling the project officially "done". Even though I'm getting pretty good at it, here's to hoping I don't have to open one of these things up ever again: I sure wish I had a source for the internal rubber parts that wasn't simply to buy a "rebuilt" unit. I know they're putting new rubber parts in the rebuilds, so I know they're available. Just not available to me without buying a whole unit!

Not sure why, but the early service manuals didn't include the HVAC stuff on the wiring diagrams. From what I can tell, they didn't put the HVAC system on the wiring diagrams until 1974 for the 260. However, I believe I found some reference to the wire in question in a document titled "S30 Supplement Chassis Manual", and that wire is exactly what you thought it is... Power to the blower motor. That's the high side supply, and then the speeds are controlled by grounding the other side of the motor through one of the speed limiting resistors. Here's a link (I think this will work), to a copy of the document in which I found the info. It's not on the wiring diagrams, but they do mention it in a few of the harness descriptions. Take a look at page 2, and again on pages 26-27: http://www.classiczcars.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=65628

In theory, the amplitude of the reluctor coil pickup should be proportional to the speed of rotation. The faster you change the field, the higher the pulse amplitude. With that in mind... Was the missing issue only at idle? I would expect the pulse height to be plenty high once the RPM's are up. Also, I assume you checked the pickup gap was within spec, but someone has to ask.

Cool, and good luck with the project! You know your user name is wrong now, don't ya?

Clock can be tested just by connecting to 12V and see if it keeps time. Voltmeter you can just hook directly up to a variable voltage source. Should read volts just like any other voltmeter. Fuel gauge can be tested using a different resistor values or a potentiometer. Here's a thread with some additional info: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55746-fuel-gauge-accuracy-1975-280z/#comment-499020 As for temp gauge and oil pressure gauges, I haven't tested them, but I assume they operate just like the fuel gauge and should be able to be tested in the same manner. Maybe different sender resistance values, but other than that, I expect it to be the same concept. I have no experience with the ammeter, but if you have a variable voltage source with an adjustable current limit, you can crank the current limit way down and just start trying pins. If you keep the current low enough, you shouldn't hurt anything. Try configurations until you find one that works? And it could probably go without saying, but on all these tests, make sure you get the polarity correct.

I bet that's about right. Late 76 build. Sloped rear deck, and titled (at least it should be) as a 77.

What's the build date on the door jamb plate?

Haha!! You know, right after posted the claim about 77, I was thinking the exact same thing and was thinking someone may bring that up! However, looking at the pic of the engine compartment, it appears to have the 77 PCV hose routing, so barring higher res pics of the engine, I (got lucky and) stand by the claim of 77.

"Back Pressure Transducer". Part of the EGR system. I think the first year for said device was 77. I do not believe they were included in 76.

I'm trying right now (folding arms and blinking)...... Did it work? (Wiggling nose)...... How about now?

At quick glance, the reasons I'm calling it a 77 instead of a 76: Door latch design. Bumper designs (including the metal trim strips between the bumper and the body) It has a BPT.

Hahaha!!!

Welcome aboard! Let me help you out by making your car one year newer. Poof!! It's now a 77, not a 76. My work here is done.

I would definitely add a ball valve like you pictured in the engine compartment. You could probably keep it completely closed for most of the year and only need to crack it open at the very beginning and end of the season. Speaking of which... I could probably close mine down now. I don't think I'll be needing heat until maybe October. As for the capacity of the heater core, I haven't measured it, but I don't think it's even as much as a half gallon. Maybe between a quart and a half gallon?

Very nice! Wish I could have been there to see it run for the first time!!

I've been out of town off-line and am coming late to the party, but glad to hear that the project is complete. Working under that dash is a royal PITA. In fact, I've done it both ways and have actually found it to be worth the time to just pull the entire dash out to work on the heater system. As for which side of the heater core the valve is on, I don't think it really matters, especially if you use one of the newer style ball valves that Sweaty and I used. The original style valve is more affected by flow direction than a ball valve since it could theoretically be forced open by pressure of the water pump, but I wouldn't worry about any of the direction stuff at all with a ball valve.

No kidding! Looks great!

Where did you get the steering wheel? And, I hate to ask, but... How much? @charliekwin

Hahaha!! Kim Cardassian! That's awesome!!

Haha!! Exactly. "And then a completely unprofitable huge amount of time later, you have this...."

Well any more evaluation will have to wait until the rains stop, which at current forecast may be.... Never?

Keep me posted as to any of these plans as well!!

One of my off season projects for this year was to replace my sketchy looking intake duct tube between the AFM and the throttle body. I couldn't see any cracks all the way through, but it's just a matter of time. I know there are aftermarket repros available, but I've always kept my eyes open for other cars that had air intake tract hoses that looked similar to the 280Z. With that in mind, and my never ending quest to find cheap ubiquitous replacements for OEM parts, I nabbed this on off a 2002 Ford Taurus: Here it is compared to the stock connector. The angle is almost perfect, but there are some issues. First, it's a little too long and second, the big end (AFM end) is too big: Taking care of the length is simple. Quick work with the razor knife to remove about a half inch from the small end where the hose clamp was and then put the hose clamp back on a little further up: Second problem... The big end is a little too big. The AFM is 2.75 diameter, but the Taurus hose is 3" diameter: So I made a spacer ring out of aluminum: Put a little sealer on the joint and press the spacer into place. Now I've got an AFM with a 3 inch outlet instead of the original 2 3/4 inches: Put everything back on the car and it looks like this. Cheap, ubiquitous, and although it isn't stock, it doesn't stand out like blue silicone tubes. One more step in having every molecule of air going through the AFM instead of around it: And now that I've got the projects mostly done and have a couple miles on the car, I was able to take about a half more turn out of my idle mixture screw. The car used to like it at about 4 1/2 turns out, and now it likes it about 5 turns out. So between my tight sealing Delrin bushings on the throttle body (this thread here >>http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57126-sticky-throttle-body-fix-delrin-bushings/), and the new intake tract duct, it seems I've got a little more air going through the AFM:

Thanks guys! That pinch bolt is pretty tight, and I really doubt that it'll slip, but you're right that it could happen. I'll keep my eyes on it. I can just reach the strap with a couple fingers with the car on the ground. That way I can check tightness without jacking anything up and crawling underneath. Makes it easy to tell without much difficulty if anything has loosened up. I'll keep you posted!

Love the AC/DC shirt. Ride On.