Captain Obvious

Wrong parts in the box... Glad it was that easy. I saw my notes on this swap go by the other day and I'll go back and have another look. I do know that the charge light should work. And, more importantly, the current through the bulb should be providing the bootstrap current for the internally regulated alternator to work. Most times it'll still work without it, but there is the slim possibility that it won't. I'll refresh my memory on the details.

Nice work on the cabinet! So do you think the results are different than straight up glass bead blasting?

If I ever get my car painted, I'm going to weld the sugar scoops to the fenders to make them one piece. I've seen a couple people do that and I really like it.

Rebuild, right? They probably forgot to put the piston seal in. Don't laugh... I've seen it. Not on a Z, but I've seen it.

Good luck, and I hope its that simple. I'm thinking there should be a pretty low resistance measured across the two horn wires coming out of the assy. I bet the working horn is a pretty low, and the non-working one is open circuit for some reason. Could be those contacts, or it could be elsewhere.

Wow... Look at the time. I need to head to the beer fridge now! Mine draws 3.2 AAC.

Well I've never held an early tach with my own two hands, so this is mostly engineering speculation, but I would go something like this... The early tachs ran the coil current to the tach. And (now that I've seen that picture), I would surmise that they used an inductive pickup for the tach to sense the ignition pulses. Just like the inductive pickup on your timing light. It senses current that flows through a wire, and just like your timing light, it does that by wrapping a "sensor" around the wire your interested in. Also the same as your clamp-on ammeter you use for house wiring to measure the current being drawn by your beer fridge. So that thing on the back of the tach is the inductive pickup, and the white wire running through it is the one being sensed. So now the real guessing starts... I'm guessing that the inductive pickup on the back of the tach is relatively cheap and prone to crosstalk and/or wave shape. I'm thinking that there may have been some crosstalk from the portion of the wire NOT looped through the sensor that was messing with the sensing of the wire that WAS looped trough the pickup. So by moving the loop of wire farther away from the pickup, it reduced the crosstalk or changed the wave shape just enough that the tach likes is better. Kinda hard to do that kind of analysis with no parts like that here though. Could be totally off, but until someone has something better......

And just because those contacts LOOK closed, are you sure you're getting electrical contact across them? Maybe drag a piece or paper between them to clean up the contacts a little?

I haven't been inside one of those, but I bet there should be no gap and those contacts should be closed. I'm assuming those contacts will open and close rapidly when power is applied to the horn and the oscillation of those contacts is what makes it BEEP. Or at least that's how it's supposed to work. The pressure on the contacts is what is controlled by the pitch adjustment screw and determines how hard those contacts are pressed together. That pressure will change the frequency at which they open and close, and that changes the pitch of the horn. If you have an Ohmmeter... What resistance do you get across the horn? And how about the other one (that works).

Haha! I bet they were pina colada or mango flavor too! So was it shaved ice, or popsicles? So this thread... It's a beautiful car up on wood stands, and we've spend almost the entire page talking about the stands. "Send pic of boat and motor." or "Yeah, but a talking frog is cool.” How about "Good choice. The clothes probably wouldn't have fit."

I would just use stock-style rotors. I believe you can get them from Rockauto.

Within reason*, I don't think the weight load really matters. As implemented above, the wood is all strictly in compression. So as long as the planks are larger than the jack stand feet (with margin above that for side-to side stability), the dimensions of the wood are pretty much immaterial. As long as you can draw a line straight down from the jack stand feet to the concrete and never pass through any air, those stacks should all be in compression. And for reference, I believe what's used in those pics is 2x6's (1.5 x 5.5). All that said, be safe and don't try this with a stack of 10,000 popsicle sticks. *Assuming you aren't putting enough compression load on it to explode the wood out the sides. Like tons and tons.

Yeah, that could be a problem. As drawn, it is entirely possible that resistance(s) of the filaments is so low that they may pass enough current to actuate your relay sometimes when you don't want it to actuate. Namely, when the headlights are off. When the headlights are turned on, what you have drawn will work fine. But when the headlights are turned OFF and your driving light switch is turned ON, you may pull enough relay current through the headlight filaments to actuate your relay. I don't think it would be enough current to be visible in the form of even a dim glow at the headlights, but it would probably be enough to close your relay. The way to combat that would be to connect the high side of your actuation switch to the switched headlight power instead of directly to the battery. If you connected the right side (as drawn in your sketch) of your driving light switch to either the Red or Red/Yellow (either one will work) wires heading out to the headlights, then that will take care of that issue. Or you could use it as a "feature" to be able to turn the driving lights on without the headlights. Even though it's not the way things are supposed to work.

Agreed. That's better and should work fine.

Agreed. I would also assume that's how he raises it. You walk it up one or two layers at a time. If you're going to be doing this often, you might even go through the trouble of screwing or nailing the wood stubs into a square "layer" beforehand and having a stack of them in the corner of the garage. Lift one end up high enough to get a layer under the jack stands and then let it down onto the stands. Then move to the other end of the car and do the same thing. Keep alternating ends until you have "walked" it up one layer at a time to the desired height. As long as the wood is flat-ish and isn't really warped, you will always have three points of contact and it should be stable even while on two stacks and a jack. I sometimes move machinery (surprised?) and utilize the same technique. I just never thought of stacking (and probably pre-building) layers in that geometry.

L2877280z, There are four white (no stripe) wires that go to the fusible link blocks. I would check the integrity of those as well. There should be one solid white that comes from the starter lug that then splits into four solid whites to go to the four fusible links. Make sure those all look good too. If someone grafted a replacement set of fusible link blocks into your car, those could be questionable as well.

There's some interesting info in this thread as well: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58474-wiper-arm-linkage-assembly-parts/

Agreed. I like that and I think I'm going to put something together like that. It's not often that I want my car that high off the ground, but that looks like a good approach.

Yup. To provide a little more info to what SteveJ already supplied... If everything is working as designed, all four of those wires should be hot at all times. But, here's the thing... They are supposed to be solid wires with no cuts in them. I'm guessing that someone burned up the fusible fuse blocks in the past and (poorly) grafted a replacement set of blocks from a donor car onto your car. The point is to be careful. Make sure you get things together correctly and the correct wires paired with the correct fusible link, etc.

That's how it is in PA. Fog lights are only allowed to be on with the low beams, and driving lights are only allowed to be on with the high beams. At least that's how it was the last time I read the inspection regs that carefully. Of course, the day and age of people adding fog lamps and driving lights to their cars seems to be mostly a thing of the past. Years ago, all the cool kids did it. But today, the only aftermarket lights you see on anything are pick-em-ups.

And if none of that makes sense, let me know and I'll whip up a sketch of (what I consider) a more recommended approach.

I'm not exactly sure how you're circuit is intended to work. Can you add the internals of the relay to the drawing? Reason I ask is that (without any details of what's inside the relay box) my assumption is that you are using a DPDT relay and switching both the hot and ground sides of the power headed out to the driving lights? And with that assumption in mind... That will work, but is not ideal. You really only need to switch one side, and any additional contacts in the system is additional resistance that will rob brightness and add heat where you don't want it. The way you've got it drawn, you are running both the actuation current for the relay and the current that powers the lamps through the switches and the relay. Kinda defeats the purpose of using a relay in the first place. The real reason to run a relay is to isolate the high current load side from the low current signal actuation side. And if my assumption about using a DPDT relay is NOT correct, and you are actually planning to use a single pole relay (SPST), then what you have drawn will not work.

Glad you found the problems. Sounds like good detective work. And clearly why we need the Classic Z Car repair axiom... "You get a spare moment, clean some connectors."

Yeah, the first thing I would do would be confirm that it is in fact the correct alternator and that it tests good on the bench. We'll figure it out. (And if you get really stuck, give me a call.)

I'm sure those are "drill shaped objects" from a different continent. If the only thing you are ever planning to do with them is drill brass, then you'll probably get a couple shots out of them before they go dull. That said... I wonder how important the true roundness and surface finish is on things like carb jets. Drill bits don't traditionally leave a very smooth finish (or round holes), and if those things are important, then it would be a much better idea to ream to final size instead of drill.