Captain Obvious

If you find any good info on the butterfly sizes, let us know. And good luck with the project.

Gotcha. Of course it's impossible for me to tell from just the pics, but from my end of the screen it doesn't look like there's enough meat. But do you really need 75mm? Is there any downside for "too big"? I'm thinking that because of the inherent non-linear nature of butterfly valves, that it could be twitchy at low throttle positions or something?

The engineer didn't do anything wrong with that pic. If that pin and hole it fits into are clean and well lubed and aren't deformed from mis-treatment... It will slip in and out with two fingers. The problem is 1) They didn't lube it at the factory when they put it in the first time so many of them have rusted up, and 2) Many of the pins have been deformed by people working on the cars after they left the factory. Kicking up burrs on either the pin or the strut housing.

I've seen many spacers with that sag. Probably just a shrinkage phenomenon from the molding process.

Forgot. Your mention of the choke cables reminds me... Unless they are loose in the box somewhere, you don't have the clamps that fasten the ends of the choke cables on the round tops. The flat top clamps are different and won't transfer over. Edit - Found a pic. They look like this:

Wow. Shiny. Yes, all the EGR stuff can go away. Not that it matters to the discussion, but the control for the EGR doesn't actually come from the distributor. It comes from a relay mounted to the front right engine compartment, under the coil (I think). But whatever. Haha! You don't currently have any water passages between the carbs and the manifolds. And you still won't after you put the new stuff on. They're four screw round tops and there are no water passages through the carb faces. I'm sure there will be some small gotchas along the way, but let's deal with them as they come up.

Wow wow wow... I haven't thought about that movie in forever! I've seen it a bunch times, but unfortunately don't remember any good lines or situations. All I remember is a dead guy and one guy was very afraid to drive a certain color car. Yellow maybe? Red? Saw himself in a mirror on the highway? @Pilgrim, I just watched that clip you posted. I remembered it as it played. That was excellent! Disappointed I didn't remember that without the hint.

LOL! So the mounting pattern is not the same. Bummer. I was trying to dig into that for you, but didn't come up with anything concrete in time. So is there enough meat to file the holes on the TB so you can get it to mount? Or is it just too far off?

Oh well. I was just wondering if there were any conclusions to be drawn from the readings. Unfortunately, the readings don't really make much sense, so there's no conclusions to be had.

Yeah, that would make more sense and that's why I was wondering if I missed a decimal point or something. If the red car were 2.2 instead of 22, it would line up better. But I don't see any decimal point there. So I have no idea what to make of those readings then. And of course, there's all the stuff that Zed Head mentioned too. Different person using different gauge in different ways on different locations on different cars. Who knows what could happen. It all just looked too weird to me and I wanted to see if someone could put their finger on it.

Wait... The red car has an average reading around 22 mil which is .022 inches, right? This works out to about 0.56 mm. While the white car has an average reading of around 0.20 mm. That means the red car has almost three times as thick a coating as the white one? I must be doing a math error in there somewhere... Am I missing a decimal point or something?

Hmmmmmm.... So how accurate are paint thickness meters? Here's a couple spots from red one that is supposedly original paint: And here's a couple spots from the white one that was repainted: What do the paint experts make of this?

Glad to help. None of this would be so confusing if they would have just shown that sub-harness on the wiring diagram. Haha!

Ooops. Sorry, I gave you the wrong answer on that one. Glad @zKars was there to supply the correct answer. Thanks for the link to your other thread. I didn't look at it yet, but will when I get a chance.

Thanks Zup!! I appreciate the kind words. And I trust your judgment about the genuine nature of the antenna and the guy offering it!

Haha!! I can't make that in my shop. But I did make these:

I think they're smaller than that. All of that small stuff is M6 x 1.0 . For comparison, the throttle body mounting bolts are M8. BTW - What's the link for that throttle body thread on HybridZ? I'd like to take a look.

Haha! But with most cars, the little canards and winglets and dips and curves are just there for show. On this car, moving at the speeds it can attain, I bet all that stuff is actually functional! They'd need to fit me with an adult diaper before getting into that thing.

So I'm assuming they sprayed the driver with V-gas* before the test run? *Note that I remembered the concept and the show, but couldn't dredge up the details without a little google.

In all his other listings for NOS parts, it always has the Nissan package or bag or box the item came in. Not so for this auction and I say show me the Nissan box it came in. The tip on his antenna doesn't look quite right to me. I've made better. @Zup LOL, or maybe my skepticism meter is just tuned a little too sensitive after that 31K mile 240Z on BAT. Haha!

Dang. So who help the record before they broke it?

Sure would! So by the way... Where did you find the info that said the 350Z uses the same mounting pattern as the 280Z throttle body? How credible was the source?

The problem is that the needle and/or nozzle may already be worn oval. But at this point, it sounds like you just want to get the car to run reasonably well and then deal with the finer points later. If that's the case, then you can probably use the existing needles and nozzles and move forward. The problem (if there is one) will be in getting the car tuned well. Typically if the nozzle is worn oval or if there is material worn off the side of the needle, then it'll drive fine, but your idle will be rich. BTW I took a look through my round top parts and I don't have that little linkage piece you're missing. Sorry.

I think the needle may have become bent because the nozzle was misaligned and binding. How bad is it? Uhhh... Yeah. He's an expert.

That diagram is correct. It's just more of the same issue as before where they didn't show the stub harness on the diagrams. The documentation just assumes the wires coming out of the back of the radio are hard-wired. I added the colors to your diagram to show what I'm talking about. I stand by my previous identifications of the wire colors (IN THE SUB HARNESS). They change some of the wire colors at the six position spade connector, so on the CAR SIDE of that connector the colors are different: Note that they don't show the illumination wires on this diagram because they are shown on the dash lighting page instead. But the rest of the colors all work out.