austinnelson117

So would I be safe in assuming the difference in pressure would be due to the rear brakes not getting any fluid? With the master being the problem? I'll probably start there since I can get a remanufactured one at NAPA for $50 after the core charge of bringing mine in.

I saw that but wasn't sure what it was. How do I know if it has been "shut off"? And how do I go about trying to turn it back on? And since both the front and rear brakes go through this wouldn't it affect both systems? One more thing, when I do hit the brakes, the parking brake light comes on, I read that this happens when there is a difference in pressure between the two braking systems.

Where is this emergency switch everyone is talking about? I couldn't find anything on it

Ill check your suggestion Leon. But my symptoms sound just like mikes. I took out the master cleaned it refilled it and still have brown fluid in the resiviour.

I did bleed the master and thanks for the info Pete I just assumed it was one pushrod. Sounds like I'll be getting a new master.

Also, I dont think the lines are clogged. The fronts were and a firm slam of the pedal blew it all out. but, still no movement in the rear lines.

Ok so my '71 240 had been sitting for years and I am in the process of getting it driveable. I have gotten fluid to the front brakes and they work fine. But, no fluid will even come out of the bleeder on the rear brakes. Right now the pedal goes halfway down with little resistance and then is firm after that (Im assuming the no resistance part is the pushrod moving through the rear brake part of the master and then it gets firm once it gets to the front). Could this be anything but the master? And if it is the master why would the fronts be working? I know the manual says that they are essentially two SEPARATE systems but I'm a little confused as to how that works.

I'm interested to see some info on this!

Thanks for the info Walter. Turns out the slave was doing absolutely nothing and the forks in the transmission move freely by hand. And Rob, thanks for the heads up, luckily I held onto the old master so I'll change that out later and let you guys know how it goes. One step closer!

Ok so I'm having a couple of issues with my clutch. First of all, the car hasn't been put into gear with the car on for 15 years. Up until today I had no petal, no resistance. Then, today I drained all of the old fluid, replaced the master and bled the system. As of right now the petal goes about halfway in (due to free play where the pushrod connects to the top of the petal which is one issue) and then at the halfway point will not go any farther. It is rock solid. I was forcing it down to the floor but later discovered it was the petal bending that made it go all the way down and that the pushrod doesn't move. Has anyone else encountered this or am I just missing something? Could the internals just be stuck from sitting so long?

My apologies, I just now got done working on the car for the day. As it turns out, the ground connection on the side of the distributor that was not reading on the multimeter before, randomly started to pick up a reading today so I reconnected everything as it was and viola I had spark. I can't really explain what happened because I did nothing but disconnect everything, let it sit overnight, and reconnect today. I ended up having to re-time it and she started up instantly with no trouble for the first time in 15 years. She ran like a champ and smoked up my garage really good. Thanks everyone for all of the help. Now on to the next thing!

I already did plenty of research. And the problem is now solved.

Btw, the points gap is sparking when I manually open it with a screwdriver and the key is in the on position.

Ok we wired everything up according to the FSM and still no spark from the coil. But, we did get spark at the point in the distributor. Why would we be getting spark at the distributor but not the coil? And the coil reads 12 volts at both the positive and negative terminals on the coil at all times like we mentioned earlier. Does that mean that the point in the distributor is not closing? And if not how do we get it to?

Ok I do see one difference in the wiring of the link Alex posted and the one in the Haynes manual. Will check that when I get home. But, as far as the contact points go, do distributor rotors come with new contact points, if so would it be worth my while to just get a new one since the car has not been driven regularly since the 90's?

Ok well I'm not 100% sure what is and isn't stock, the previous owner did mention something about switching over to electronic ignition but I'm not sure exactly what was done. I will probably call him this evening to confirm. But, according to your description of the wires everything sounds about right. One problem we had was the ground on the distributor that connects to the coil was not reading when the other end of the multimeter was connected to the positive battery terminal. We just made our own ground for the time being just to test it but im not sure if that has anything to do with the problem. Also, where does the green/white wire connect to the ignition set up? We followed the manual to a T but came up blank. And Steve, we are learning as we go here but I have no earthly clue how to check the gap and dwell of the ponts. Do you mean the gap on the spark plugs? I will do some reasearch to try and learn a little more about it but like I said we followed every wiring diagram we found exactly.

Hello all, I have gotten my Z to the point where it is time to turn it over and see what happens. So far nothing. It is not getting any spark at the plugs or at the wire coming out of the ignition coil that leads to the distributor. I tried to follow the wiring from the Haynes manual but it shows only 1 positive wire at the ignition coil and I have 3. 2 of them beep on the multimeter ONLY when the ignition is turned and the third one beeps at all times. Then I have one negative coming through the wire bundle as well that connects just above the distributor. I am getting power into the ignition coil just not out of it. What am I doing wrong here??

AH Alex you beat me to it!

Ok well I dropped the tank last night and took it to a self serve car wash nearby and 5 dollars later I still had rust particles coming out. I gave up and took it home and repeatedly filled with water, shook it up and dumped it. I did this for probably 20-30 minutes and little rust pieces kept coming out. Eventually I was too tired and frustrated to keep going so I gave up for the night. Any suggestestions on what step I should take next? I stuck a tube light in the tank and there was still a lot of brown in there.

Thanks for the input everyone. Right now I'm leaning towards dropping it and taking it to a radiator shop rather than going with a kit. I will probably go check out the swap meet next month as well though. Chase, any idea on the location of it? And is it exclusively Z's, exclusively s30's or any kind of vehicle?

Ah ta240 you may have solved my problem. There are no such bushings in it as it is. The previous owner must have forgotten to put them back in. Do they go around the metal rod that pushes through the shifter and clamps on the other side?

Ok, I did look down onto the shifter and noticed what looked like could be a problem. I believe you when you say there is alot of free play but I'm wondering if I'm experiencing more than normal. There is a little gold rectangle that controls the left and right movements of the shifter and above that is what looks like an upside down "U" that fits over it. When I'm in gear and move the shifter left and right there is a decent amount of gap between the gold rectangle and the U shape. So when I move It left and right it doesnt move the rectangle as it looks like it should. There is a little cylinder that goes through the middle of all of this and it is fairly loose as well. When i push it all the way to the right to put it in reverse it actually has to bend the plastic center console to the side to go all the way over. If all this is normal I apologize I just want to make sure I dont need to do any work down there

And how do I go about cleaning it before I re-coat it? Dropping the tank is not a big issue for me, I've done numerous repairs with my Fords (had to drop the transmission on my explorer 3 times) but I don't see how to get into the tank once it's off. I've also heard people take their tanks to radiator shops to be "boiled out". Do you have any experience with doing this and would that be easier?

Thank you sir! Another question I have that I forgot to mention before was, when then car is in gear it still has like two inches of freeplay. It almost feels like it is in neutral. Every other manual tranny car that I have driven (I can count them on one hand and they were all late 90's +) didn't have near as much free play. I dont know if this is just because it is so old or if there is actually something wrong. I'm only 19 so I really have no experience with cars any older than me.

Hello all, I just picked up a 1971 240Z that has been sitting for several years and am in the slow and patient process of getting her in good enough shape to turn the key and see what I get. I have been following directions and suggestions from other discussions and posts I have found. The other day I took off the drain plug to drain the gas tank but nothing came out. So, I poured about a half gallon in to let some fuel drain through the plug to see if any gunk or anything came out with it. The gas came out clean but I did bend and stick a paperclip around as it was coming out to scrape at the tank and when I did this the fuel turned a very slightly brown color and a few small reddish brown grains of dirt or something similar came out. My question is, should I drop the tank and clean it or would I be fine? Some threads I read said that you just change the fuel filter frequently at this point, but I'm not sure if that is in addition to cleaning the tank or instead of. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks in advance, Austin