redzedsled

Hi Guys! The FelPro gasket was not recommended by my engine builder, and I have read many bad experiences in other message threads. The Nismo head gasket seems the way to go despite its price of $150. This gasket, part number 11044-E4620, is shown as having an oval and not round opening measuring 85mm x 89mm. When I removed the old head gasket, assuming it was the first rebuild and an original head gasket, was also this oval shape. I measured an aftermarket head gasket (seems is has a sun-like logo stamped into it but measures 88.5mm round). Victor Reinz brand was recommended also, but good luck trying to find one. My main concern is quality and not blocking off any of the water passages with the new gasket. Anyone ever tried the Stone brand? I have a P30 block by the way... Rob

Hello All. I had ordered in a Head Gasket for my 1971 240Z with E31 head from my local Nissan dealer, and he ordered in part number 11044-27L01. After waiting a great deal of time I was informed that this gasket is NLA. The other Nissan number that is available was 11044-N4221, showing fitment for Z cars from 12/74 onward. My question is does anyone know of this part number being used on an E31 head. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

I did not mean to suggest that dry fabric tape was not a good product. My intention was to suggest what I found to be most accurate for my restoration, and what Nissan used in the day. The smooth type blends well into the existing loom should you decide to do a partial wiring loom restoration. I am sure that the fabric type would look awesome as well, especially where you have used it on the distributor lead.

You should also consider the dry wiring loom tape with no adhesive. There are brands out there such as Plymouth which can be bought in a 1-1/4" width. The heat of the engine bay will make any adhesive tape very tacky which will in turn, attract dirt and debris. Such grime is an enemy of the wiring harness. Nissan used this same tape that the Corvette and Camaro guys use on their vehicles. Buy the smooth kind and not the fabric type. You can tie off the ends with standard 3M adhesive electrical tape to secure it at the ends. Just my two cents!

You might want to include the Ampco fuel pump which was part number 17010-N3625 as well. As a rule, interchangeability is by the brand, but this is a great question. I have all three kinds on the shelf, but have never replaced the diaphragm. The fiche suggests that the part number for the diaphragm changed after 7/73 and does not fit to the former fuel pump. The later fuel pump, part number 17010-N3625 shows fitting an L26 from 11/73 on. It could be possible that the 260Z fuel pump would be the Ampco brand and not the Nikki brand of earlier Z cars. The Ampco pump I have could also be an aftermarket pump of the era, long before the Kyosan model.

As stated in the previous post, they are NLA (No Longer Available) from Nissan. Ebay is your best bet, but plan on spending some big dollars for them.

As you see here, they snap in real tight. The only knock on these caps is that the black portion is very prone to cracking. This sample you see here has this crack, and it is not the first one I've seen. I had to reject another new cap my Nissan dealer brought in, with again a flaw in the cap. To me, even though they are not 100% factory correct for the wheel, they still look awesome. I believe the European alloys were painted a gun metal grey in behind the spokes, whereas the ones I restored were originally natural aluminum finish with a super thick clear coat inside the wheel and between the spokes. Either way, this is a classic Z wheel.

I have the same alloy wheels and I used the Black Center Caps, the ones with the Z in the center. They snapped in perfectly and look awesome! I believe the part number is 40343-P7100 and is still available from Nissan.

Thanks for your input Mike. There are a vast number of other Nissan part numbers that are a 5/8" bore with many being compatible with other Datsun models: 30610-N4000, 30610-N4001, 30610-N6001, 30610-U750A, 30610-U7517, 30610-U7510, 30610-H5802, just to name a few. I like the idea of finding a Nabco brand like the one you have, with the mid-reservoir.

This looks nice and clean. Just having the reservoir towards the firewall in this design greatly improves the clearance. I wonder if any other members have had similiar issues with the early Clutch Master Cylinder. Perhaps it might be better judgement to get a newer CMC, whatwith the Nissan recall, and gain the clearance desired. Thanks for your response!

Hello All! I have rebuilt what I think is a Series I 240Z Clutch Master Cylinder made by Nabco (5/8" bore) for my 12/70 built car. After rebuilding and installing I noticed that it touches the Windshield Washer Bottle. Having said that, I consulted the Factory Service Manual and it shows a cross section illustration for two separate and distinct profiles (see attached images). On page CL-6, Figure CL-15, the reservoir is shown being located in the center area of the Master Cylinder. Yet if you refer to page CL-7, Figure CL-16, you will note that the reservoir is at the frontmost portion of the Master Cylinder. I have tried to research other threads, but there seems to be an absence of good images to refer to. I have understood that a 260Z Clutch Master Cylinder may be slightly longer than than of the 240Z units, is it possible it might be for a 260Z? I was always led to believe that the 260Z units moved the reservoir towards the center. Could someone please chime in on the known differences between model years. It should also be noted that there was a recall dated 7-11-1972 which "introduced a redesigned valve case. New part number 30610-E4200 more positively prevented air from entering the cylinder from the bottom of the reservoir" as quoted in Wick Humbles 'How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car'. In fact, as is shown in his book on page 138 on the upper left hand image, it clearly shows a replacement Master Cylinder with the reservoir located in the center of the unit. There is at least 8 different part numbers within the microfiche including 30610-E4100, E4101, E4200, E4201, N4200, E4301, N4000 and N4001. Could anyone please share some images they may have of their CMC installed and its proximity to the Windshield Washer Bottle. The current Master Cylinder I have installed measures about 4-1/8" from the firewall to the end of the aluminum valve body. Any help is greatly appreciated and valuable for other members of this club. Please note on the very last image that there is strong evidence that clearance was not an issue with the washer bottle.

It is an M6 Crossed Recessed Pan Head Screw that is 37mm long with a very small cam washer underneath the head.

Try homedepot.com and enter the search "foam tape".

I located a Genuine Nissan fender seal that is the correct thickness for the Mud Guard flange and the Inner Fender Baffle flange. It is part number F3810-J0101 and is a direct replacement for the 240Z. It measures 20mm (3/4") wide and stands 15mm (5/8" high). It comes longer than what is required so you have to cut with a pair of scissors. It features a really tacky peel and stick backing that is removed before installation. It is very soft and compresses much easier than the closed cell foam tapes out there. Like Dan suggested in the earlier post I too also used the closed cell foam tape for under the rear fender that is a little heavier duty than a standard closed cell weatherstrip and intended for RV and Auto use (see pics). The fact that is a little more dense is welcome to help support the front fender. It is 25mm (1 inch) wide and 11mm (7/16") high for your reference. I also used the same material for the front-most flange and it measures 4mm x 10mm or 5/32" high x 3/8" wide. There is also a rubberized foam tape out there that is a little more expensive, and will not mildew. See pics below for your reference...

I heard on the news today that Summer gas is more expensive than Winter gas, thus the recent price increase. About $1.45 per Litre here on the Wet Coast of Canada. That translates to $5.40 CDN per US Gallon!

In the middle of difficulty lies opportunity... - Einstein

Rob you could try the "Z Shop" up here in Surrey, BC Canada. His name is Dan, and has been collecting NOS S30 parts for some time now. His email is dan@zshop.ca.

Well it's been at least 2 hours now, so I thought I would respond to my own post. I scoured all Factory Service Manuals from 70-78 Z cars and all FSM's indicate that the correct replacement bulb is in fact the 6012. Apparently the 6014 bulb replaced the 6012 with a rating of 60/50W at some point, but not sure on that one. Aftermarket bulbs now use the H6024, but all seem to be rated at 12V. I kind of expected an "Ohm's Law" beatdown with this thread, but no one has chimed in as of yet. Getting more confused by the minute...

Hello all! Purchased a pair of brand new Koito Headlamp Sealed Beams from my Nissan dealer and they are marked on the back 6024LH and rated at 24V 75/55W. My original headlamps are marked 6012 and are rated at 12V 50/40W. Could someone in the know please explain what the difference is and any compatibility issues there may be whatwith the different voltage rating. The microfiche suggests that this new pair is compatible with its former number, part number 26705-89905. Any input would greatly be appreciated.

Banzai Motorworks mentioned to me a couple of months back that he was developing this product. For what it is worth please see attached an original valve stem cap from a 7/72 car.

Please see differences in labels for the battery cover. Oddly enough it is exactly the same part number yet they both have unique decals. One is the true definition of NOS and the other was more recent stock before they were discontinued from Nissan.

No this will not make the carpet template, it was much different. The later model Series II used a two-piece jute whereupon the other piece went directly under the seat and the other piece went in behind the seat. In the 70-71 pattern it was a one-piece unit which went under the seats and behind and around the plastic tool box doors directly behind the seat. This of course is where the jack and tools were stored on the early cars. The jute was definitely "undercut" smaller such that the carpet would not show the jute underneath. I am sure there are other message threads with respect to Series I carpet reference pics, but please see attached as an example...

Hello guys and gals... here attached please find a 2-page PDF template of the rear tool box area for a Series I 240Z. Each page contains a left and right pattern. It has been test-fitted and is very accurate. Enjoy... jute mat 70-71 FINAL.pdf

Refer to Post #99 dated 10-13-2012 on the previous page within this thread.

Some early reference pics of sound deadening in the rear cargo area of a Series I 240Z. Reference pic of Series II with tool box doors in rear area.