cgsheen1

I agree. (and, 110 oxidizes toward orange over the years - even so, it's always completely different than 918 which is definitely a "burnt orange" without any apparent red in the tint - and 918 would never oxidize toward red) The engine bay is probably not the place to look for original color. Best to look for the factory overspray on the interior of the car. Check the spare tire well first, but it may have been shot over as well. Definitive proof is usually under the vinyl on the pillars... If it's 110 - oxidized 110 - the color you get from a supplier from their stock formula will never match the oxidized paint. It will be a deeper red. Remove one of your side maker lights and look at the paint underneath. You may see that it's darker, more red. If so, it isn't stained - that's the original unoxidized color.

Sounds like an old plumber talking! I have actually done that in the past to make a hole punch. I have copper pipe and tube AND I have a proper pipe reaming tool (because I am a Journeyman Plumber). If you "over use" the reaming tool, you can get quite a sharp edge on the end of the tube!

Be safe. Be smart. Take the engine out and put it on a stand and you'll have the cross member and suspension free and clear to work on. The "extra work" would come from trying to work around the situation you're trying to create to avoid the extra work...

As much vacuum as your engine makes. (Make sure that check valve is working.)

Oh, so there was a rubber piece on the end of the bumper - that covered the notch-out.

You may already know this, the 2-bolt hole flat "faces" of the pistons (bumper shocks) will rotate - so if the bolt holes don't line up...

I believe that would push the ends back into / over the front wheel arch. IIRC, the front bumper "sides" are longer to compensate for the amount the bumper has been brought forward. It's been a few years since I abandoned my early 260 bumpers in favor of 240Z bumpers so I may be mis-remembering, but I think that's the case...

They look similar, but they're not the same. They are shaped differently because they were pushed farther forward and mounted on pistons to meet the new US crash standards. They should mount on a 280 much like they do a 260, but they will remain pushed away from the front of the car. The early 260 had various "filler" pieces to cover the newly increased gap between the bumper and body (and grill). I doubt you could get the early 260Z front bumper to fit tight to the body like a 240 bumper.

Yes, it mounts on top of the control arm.

Right, the Tach in the earlies is "current sensing" so the wiring path to the ballast and coil is very specific and it requires a coil with the same value as stock. There are two B/W - one that goes to the ballast and one that goes to the coil. Be sure to reference the full circuit diagram because there are simplified diagrams in the BE and EE sections that don't show all the wiring involved in the ignition and Tach circuit...

? I love to see pics of 280's - with super long tail pipe extensions! cough, cough...

Well, easy in regard to the pedals themselves... You don't have to do anything there. (Or, if you already have the dash out of the car.) The pedal box is probably the very first interior dash thing installed in a bare chassis. Everything else near there gets attached to it or installed over it - thus requiring quite a bit of disassembly to replace it. (although, in my old age it's probably easier for me to pull the whole dash than lay under the steering column while trying to fish the pedal, bolt, spring (little plastic things under the spring ends), clutch pin and clip, blah blah blah...)

The middle picture above looks just like Jim's Swiss 1973 240Z we had in the shop last year. The turn signals had to be above the bumper, so no cut-out in the front valence pieces for T/S. His didn't have an air dam - I like that air dam... Also, the rear license plate lighting couldn't be above the plate so the light was mounted on the rear bumper.

Do you mean the weatherstrip that surrounds the quarter window top, back, and bottom glued to the stainless steel frame? It's a "U' channel and the longer "leg" goes to the outside - if that's what you're asking...

The thing you have circled in red IS the male bullet connector... Test between there and GROUND (battery "-") (but, this is all just to absolutely verify that the switch is bad. It is. Just replace the damn switch...)

I installed LED gauge bulbs in a customer car years ago and absolutely hate the harshness of that light. But, I'm an old dude and grew up with soft green gauge lighting. My rheostat windings are clean and it works like a champ - so does my gauge lighting...

With an OHM METER check between THERE and GROUND. Ohm meter should read "0" (no continuity). If it does not read "0" then that part (the Warning Light Switch) is bad and you'll need to remove it and repair or replace it.

Do you have a multimeter? You can test the switch (what you are calling the sensor) by removing the wire and testing for continuity between the male bullet connector and ground (the thing you have circled in red in the picture above). It should have NO continuity (open circuit) if the shuttle inside is centered properly. If it has any continuity then: - There is an imbalance in the brake circuits - The switch is stuck and off the neutral position - The switch is defective The fact that the light only illuminates when the wire is attached shows the "fault" comes from the switch itself, not a ground fault in the wire. The Factory Service Manual advises against repairing this device - but that was back when they were still available from dealers. I would probably source another one - failing that, There's a cross section picture above (Figure BR-12 Warning Light Switch) that shows how it could be disassembled.

Yes (it's a "bullet" connector and just pushes on, doesn't screw on). And clean the inside of the connector that attaches to it also. Once you get the connection all cleaned up and reattached, that light will probably get brighter. If it does, you have a problem with a brake circuit or a faulty pressure differential switch that will need to be replaced. The switch inside completes a ground circuit for the warning light. It can only do so if the shuttle inside is pushed out of it's neutral position by a brake circuit imbalance.

That's too bad... I've taken apart several clocks and I've always been able to get the mechanism loose and away from the case. I've painted all my gauge cases white inside and it's amazing what it does for gauge illumination! I've never need higher wattage bulbs in my 260Z...

OMG... I didn't know such a thing existed - but of course, you can buy them on Amazon! https://www.amazon.com/MagiDeal-Pressure-Pointer-Caliper-Lifting/dp/B07GLB3MNL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538673176&sr=8-1&keywords=gauge+needle+puller

They press on - so the key is just care and patience. The metal is thin and easily bent.

I'm currently doing the same and have the a similar conundrum... I don't really want to cover the top of the doors. If I don't, I feel I'll need to line both boxes completely and possibly the underside of the doors. Maybe just line both boxes?? I know from building my Home Theater that an open seam equals a sound leak. I have a fair amount of the rear covered and it seems like most of my noise is now in the tail (light panels) and from the quarter panel area. IDK how I'm going to deal with those sections either...

The 240Z we had here was fitted with Euro gauges - KPH, Liters, and etc... New owner thought they were cool and left them in the car. The car also had to have a rear license plate light that was under the plate. It had a lamp mounted on top of the rear bumper. It had to come from the factory like that as the holes and the wiring weren't done after the fact. It didn't have the usual plastic light holder under the hatch. It was kind of an interesting story of a US serviceman who bought the Z over there and brought it back to the US back in the day.