ksechler

I have finally thrown my hands in the air and abandoned my attempts at a phased restoration. I just got tired of taking stuff off and putting it back on knowing in my head that I was just going to be taking it off again. It is also frustrating trying to work on stuff with a bunch of other crap in the way. Better to just take it apart and get on with it. This will be my build thread. I can't hope to duplicate the super-human efforts recently of Hardway and Grannyknot, but somebody might glean something useful from my efforts and maybe save another z! The subject: 1976 280z in driveable condition. I live in MD. It's a rust belt car in super condition, but there are still some problems. Somebody loved this car. Progress: I rebuilt the front and rear suspension and put on new wheels. The thread is here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/48081-rear-suspension-rebuild-thread.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/48260-front-suspension-rebuild-thread.html I have also revamped the brakes but I have not added a thread yet. Problems: The passenger frame rail was damaged at some point and replaced. The replacement is rusted out. The rail and floor pan need to be replaced. There are some other areas that are starting to exhibit paint bubbling. Time to learn to weld. It's not as bad as I expected. So I started tearing the car apart. Here's where I'm at:[/ATTACH] Wish me luck. The plan is to keep pulling stuff off and hopefully pull the engine in 2 weeks (I'm out of town next weekend).

Never ask a how to question on hybrid z without searching the archives. I've seen so many posters get flamed for that. They make it an art form there.

Is there a special tool or methodology for removing this?

Thanks. That does seem a little pricey, but it might be cheaper than fixing the only I have. I have sent an email requesting further information.

A decent 280z shell cheap. I don't care about the mechanical condition but I want one with a good frame and no rust.

Is it possible to reassemble the Booster with the rear plate 90 degrees off? I ordered a rebuilt unit and if I orient it with the 2 longer studs in the 12:00 and 6:00 o'clock position and the vacuum port in the 4:00 o'clock position (approx) then the rear plate bolt pattern is 90 degrees off. Any advice would be appreciated. I'm thinking I need to send it back.

I don't know how you could see a castor issue in that picture. The wheels are not turned and all of the bushings are brand new. With the 15" vs. 16" issue it wasn't the tires it was the wheels that I had trouble finding. There aren't that many 16X7 or 16X8 options out there with 4 lugs. I'm not saying they can't be found, but I spent a long time looking before I found what I wanted.

I run 225/50R16 on 16x7 zero offset. They rub on all four corners. You would probably be safe with 205's. You may find your options limited in 16's. You might consider doing 15's because that's what the Miata crowd uses. So there are more tire/wheel combinations available.

I too have decisions to make although there are generations between them they are still 2 z's. Sorry about the crappy picture.

I have been through the assemble, disassemble, assemble again routine. I know exactly how you feel. Just keep your focus. It's part of the drill. It wouldn't do for things to be any less than perfect with all of the effort you have invested so far. One piece of advice I can give you, though is to use your floor jack when aligning the strut towers with the three mounting holes. You've already done the back but it might help with the front. I used my jack to take the struts weight. I aligned the bolts with my hands and then used my foot to pump the jack up until the bolts were through. It's an ambidextirous little dance but much easier than trying to lift and align the strut at the same time. Good luck!

The UPS man arrived today with my new brake booster and 5-spd transmission. I'm dying to get to work but I am laid up. Monday I had foot surgery. So I can't drive, stand or walk except to use the bathroom. I am so bored! Hopefully, I'll be back at it next weekend.

Awesome. I can't wait to see the finished product.

Very nice work. How come you wire brush instead of sandblasting? I sandblasted most of my stuff. I'm not being critical, I'm just curious. I enjoy reading your posts since we are on similar paths with our cars. How far are you from being able to drive it?

Thanks guys!

Is the connection between the brake booster and master cylinder supposed to be gasketed? I'm sorry if this is a dumb question. Thanks.

Have you checked hybrid z? I thought I remembered reading about someone doing that, but if memory serves they also used the '83 booster and pedal.

All: Thanks for the replies. Here is what I have: Stock Booster 15/16 Master from an '81 ZX (the right one with 2 reservoirs) 4-piston calipers with the proper, non-vented rotors Rear disk conversion from MSA Wilwood proportioning valve (to rear brakes) New steel lines throughout Braided lines to calipers So to answer your questions: I don't have rear drums I did take the vacuum line off but not the check valve. Also there is no change in idle when pumping the brakes which I would expect with a bad check valve. Yes, I removed the master cylinder. The current one is not stock for my car.

I drove my car for the first time since September tonight after rebuilding the front and rear suspension and redoing the entire brake system. The brakes are underwhelming. The pedal is heavy but with enough pressure will lock up the brakes. I don't think the booster is working at all. The pedal does not soften if you start the car while holding the brakes. So my questions are: How do you test the brake booster and what should the brakes feel like? I know feel is subjective but I'm wondering if stiff brakes are normal for an almost 40 year old car.

No, the Cusco brace absolutely does not fit the 280z. I have one sitting in my garage right now. The MSA brace, though less attractive does fit.

Thanks, you were right. I had the rear calipers reversed right for left. I switched them and got a good bleed. There are still some other issues but I have pedal feedback now and the car stops when I back it out of the garage. I think I might have dropped the reaction disk in the booster and the throw isn't quite right yet, but I have made some progress. Thanks again for the help.

Can someone who has done the rear disc conversion post a picture of the emergency brake cable routing at the caliper?

That's horrible.

Well freaking done! Let me give you a couple of quick pointers based on some of my mistakes. First, the notch in the spindle pins is NOT in the center. Make sure you have them oriented the right way before installing. Then coat them liberally with anti-sieze compound in case you and/or the car are around in another 40 years and they need to be replaced again.

Do you have your car torn down or not. If it is together you will have to use multiple pieces because you won't be able to install a one piece line. For the first pass I used this: Complete Metal Brake Line Kit Nissan Datsun 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1995 1996 | eBay It is a generic brake line kit so don't be fooled where it says it is for a 240z. To bend and flair I used a generic pair of tubing pliers and a hand held flare tool from Northern Tool. The pliers were ok but the flare tool was crap. For the second pass I bought 25' of tubing and a flare tool from Summit Racing. The tool was $200 but it does a great job. K Tool Professional Brake Flaring Tool Kits 70081 - SummitRacing.com

I rebuilt and modified my brakes. Here's what I have: Stock Booster 15/16 Master from an '81 ZX (the right one with 2 reservoirs) 4-piston calipers with the proper, non-vented rotors Rear disk conversion from MSA Wilwood proportioning valve (to rear brakes) New steel lines throughout Braided lines to calipers I bled the brakes at the master cylinder and each caliper; right rear, left rear, left front, right front. I actually bled them twice and there didn't seem to be any air in the lines. The pedal can still be depressed to the floor but pumping it repeatedly will get me pressure and minimal braking (I'm not sure how much because the car is simply not safe to drive right now). I adjusted the booster pushrod length. I have no idea if it is right, but I did it wrong and may have dropped the reaction disk, but before I tear the booster apart I would like to be sure that is the problem. Doesn't the pump up symptom indicate air in the system, though? Is there anyway to know if the reaction disk is dropped without taking the booster apart?