Patcon

Practice is good. You'll get it

I totally understand all of this from my own experience I have used the Omni epoxy in the past. The only issue I had was, epoxy shouldn't come off with lacquer thinner after it's cured. I was able to wipe some Omni off many years ago. Now I don't know if that is my fault or a product issue. One of the issues I always have with my paint is the catalyst get bad over time and I use them slowly by industry standards. So it may take me 2 years to use a full gallon of epoxy or primer or what ever. So it may be the catalyst I used in the problem Omni was bad and just didn't cross link. I use Nason products now which are basically the PPG products of say ten years ago. PPG develops a new better product then repackages the current PPG into a product for the Nason line. A body shop guy told me that just last week. PPG makes good product, albeit not cheap. If you DIY though you have a lot more room to by materials because you save so much on the overall cost of a paint job. I have had good luck with Eastwood products. Although I have 2 complaints about them. One is an Echo. In these days of Amazon Prime, I would like to see my product arrive faster than it does. The second is that their product is fairly expensive. I have been using their "After blast" for bare metal protection. It is an acid based product that converts light rust to phosphate and protects the panel from flash rust. For concealed areas I have used the "Internal frame coating" I buy the cans with the long hoses on them and I filled every concealed space on the z before I got very far along into body work. It is runny and will seep out of all the seams and drip everywhere. Don't buy the bulk can because you will never be able to get it to spray out of anything. It just dries way too fast to spray it out of an undercoater gun. Also the cans of internal frame coater don't store well. Buy them when you need them and use them. I had 2 cans that sat for a while and were dead when I tried to use them. They are too expensive to have them be dead from sitting. I do like their 2k satin black for matching the Datsun chassis black and black out areas. I made my own sating black for a while by using a flattening agent but I get more consistent results in finish using the Eastwood product. I try to use Evercoat products for fillers, and I am using sort of middle of the road Devilbiss guns. I have multiple tips so I can match the product. Have you ever looked at the P sheets for the products you use? I have a 1" 3 ring binder I keep in the shop with copies of all the P-sheets for the products I use. That way I don't have to remember mix ratios or recommended grit levels for each product. They will have little details that make using them easier. I however live in the deep south and I run a dehumidifier 24/7 in my shop to keep humidity at bay. If I don't run it, stuff rusts up pretty quick and mold starts growing on everything. Sorry for the novel...

Beautiful!

I would love to know what epoxy you're using. I don't think it will hurt the product reputation at all, since it seems to be bonding. I have used Nason epoxy on bare metal that I had treated. Now we sand everything pretty good after we treat it, and I have had no bonding issues from that. The only paint failures I've had are from active rust under the new paint. I do know that they don't want you to acid treat metal before epoxy, but I have done it successfully so far. Most of the body guys I've talked too tell me I need to paint bare metal the same day. That I can't let it sit without painting it. It's just not really feasible for me to do that sometimes. I keep the humidity in my shop pretty low so the metal doesn't really surface rust when it sits.

Don't you hate it when you do that! I have a roll pin I took out of something. Put it in a conspicuous place in the shop so I wouldn't lose it. I still have it, but I forgot what it came out of....

I also found it to be a standard thread and not metric. I found that odd but didn't fight it.

Do you run that through a MIG? The silicon bronze not the silicone bronze...

I would disagree on this. Rebadging to me is no different than blacking out window trim or different bumpers or different wheels. It looks different and has different exterior details, but nobody is suggesting it is a factory made Fairlady as re-Vinning implies

The other problem with autonomous cars, is someone has to decide who dies and right it into the code. Sort of the iRobot conundrum. Do you hit the pedestrian or the oncoming car? Do you save the injured cop drowning or the little girl?

I had other theories: didn't want to weld everything solid or it was easier to shape down the excess weld Thanks, Wheee!

Why silicone bronze?

I am not sure that the invention of the smart phone and texting has improved American's driving skills!

I enjoyed that, thanks.

Yeah, that's not even close. I wonder if it would look like that if you went to an actual PPG autobody paint supplier? Not a third party vendor

They make gasket punches. I think I bought a cheap set of them at HF. They are round punches with a sharpened leading edge and a slot on the side for the disc to come out. I would think that would get you pretty close. If you know the diameter you need I could try to find mine and see if one of them corresponds in size

GLWTS

Like the commenters on your YouTube channel said, the first dizzy is probably a points dizzy. Look under the cap for a set of points. The second is an electronic dizzy with the matchbox on the side. They came in 4 and 6 cylinder models. So look under the cap and make sure there are 6 trigger points and the interior is intact. They make a much better ignition in my opinion. Hotter spark and no points to mess with, but the matchboxes can fail. It is always good insurance to source another one and throw it in the glove box if it leaves you stranded.

I am not sure they are mutually exclusive. Many of the processes have been driven off shore simply from the hazards associated with them and our litigious society. Since I haven't ever been through a plating facility and seen how they handle the process start to finish. I can't speak to whether they affect the water quality. I suspect the real issue is employee exposure to hazardous materials and not being able to afford the liability insurance and workers comp rates and still compete against foreign made products that don't carry that overhead burden. Now don't misconstrue, I am all for protecting workers health and reducing personal liability through coverage but those are real costs that control product pricing. I also suspect that the owners of those plating shops want their kids to have clean water and their grandkids too. As a side note, do you know we make no red glazed ceramics in the US? Or do any animal hide tanning in the US? All over seas for the same reason. Red ceramics have lots of lead in them and lead fumes aren't very good for the recipient of them. Tanning hides is evidently a pretty toxic process. So we ship our hides overseas to be tanned then ship them back as leather to be used

Actually I believe the discussion is germane to the value of your parts. If the previous poster is correct that the LD block is the basis of a 3.5L motor, than your parts are worth more than simply using the taller block. Rod ratio doesn't effect displacement, which was my line of question. I am also pretty familiar with the forum and what info has been posted here and the ability to find that information or not. Just trying to help you determine the value of your parts, as I own 2 of these engines already. So I have a vested interest in helping you get the best price.

A quick look through the article and I didn't see a reference to an LD28 block

How is he building a 3.5 engine? What are the components? Bore and stroke?

If your car is this early, you probably have the early style hinges. You need to post up a picture. They were very different

That was an excellent deal on that kit!

You could probably rent a lift for the day fairly cheap. Or if you're like me you use it as an excuse to go by one"...but honey, it was on sale!" If you already have the cross member to put back in, you would only need for a few hours.

Maybe you could wait until the sheriff auctions it off after they seize it?