Patcon

I would sell while the markets still strong. Its likely to change soon. Liking old things is good but losing out on a good market wouldn't be worth it IMO

Too bad I think its gonna have to come out and be gone through

Well, I would say thats too much. I know the axles were available at Rockauto. Some of that looks like too much lash on the ring gear but the up & dn movement on the input sides of the diff looks like bearing tolerances. Looks like you have significant movement at multiple points. Will the shop stand behind the diff?

As a reference point for others, would you be willing to share in round numbers what the paint job cost? It looks good and it's very rare to have a flawless paint job. The good news is a car can be reassembled pretty fast after paint is finished

Doesn't look like it...

The Millermatic should work just fine. It will weld up to 3/8". You will have to get into some big metal to out grow it. Shield gas is a must! I run 0.24" wire. I find it is a little easier to get the current right and requires less current to puddle. It can give me feed problems but I am running a little larger Hobart machine

For the cost of tooling and the low production numbers, $660 seems very reasonable. The Smog line should be an easy delete and doesn't have to be a permanent mod

I think you fender line looks good

Yeah, they fluff up a lot when you take them apart!

I'm 6-5" and I fit without hitting my head. Like previously mentioned checked for seat spacers or an overstuffed seat. I also drive somewhat reclined...

I know of no alternative for the factory rubber bushing. NOS replacement or poly are your only options, I believe.

That is a rusty beast!! 8k looks even better!

I believe there is a small dimple on the lower part of the hole the master cylinder bolts into on the booster. I believe it is designed to allow brake fluid to drain out instead of into the booster

That is possible. I would think they should have some supporting documentation or possibly pedal condition?

I may order some and try it if I can't get any movement

I would say 8k is an excellent price for the car. Full quarters are no longer available. After market partial quarters, floors, inner wheel wells, dog legs and inner and outer rockers are currently available. The car could be very valuable if properly handled and repaired

Too bad Im not closer. I could've helped...

Possibly... I had wondered if there were a product that would help break down the corrosion and not damage the pistons

@Captain Obvious I got the package the other day. Looks great. I will update this weekend, hopefully

Jim, My only thoughts on this are were all of the those hoses available in a braided finish at the time? We have been fortunate that many of these NLA's parts are becoming available again.

Then Get Banzai to do it. Cheaper than buying the correct dies

Depends If you want to show it, then it matters. It also depends on how knowledgeable the judges are... If you want to drive it, then it doesn't.

The holes in the washers are also different diameters

The condenser idea is really cool! You could put that in a tub and load it full of ice to really make the moisture come out

If the hatch will align and then slowly move, then I suspect the mounts are moving because of seal pressure. You could get it adjusted and then put a faint pencil outline around the mounts. Check them after it moves to confirm the slippage. I would use a sealant between the mounts if thats whats happening to increase resistance The door is more difficult... Worn latch, worn striker are easy fixes. If I couldn't solve it any other way I would add adjustment to the inboard but I wouldn't think that should be necessary I believe the latches have two sequential locking positions. Maybe move the strike further out and see if you can get the latch to lock better