Patcon

I agree, It was something hard. That probably got harder over time. I wouldn't have a clue what I was use with similar properties. I figure something soft is better, especially if some were to get loose internally

So I found a few badges... 2 of the "Datsun" emblems are metal one is plastic. One of the qtr panel emblems is pretty badly corroded. I do have a set of L&R, although I can't figure out why the early emblems are handed. The later emblems have slots for air towards the rear so that makes sense for handing. They really need rechroming. Has any one found a vendor for restoring these emblems?

So I have starting looking for some exterior parts. Tail light strips seem to be available, but early car Quarter badges seem to be scarce. Also one listing I saw suggested they were handed. Is that correct? I need to look around and see if I have any here...

I don't know exactly what I will use there. I will probably lean towards high temp RTV or Black urethane. The black urethane should stick to pretty much anything

Lamp sockets

Pretty much done with buffing now. It looks pretty good especially for being shot in a dirty shop.

@emccallum Who did you use for plating?

@kats Thanks so much for the offer. I will of course let you know if you can be of assistance. C

This is what I figured too. Too thick of a shim will actually make it impossible to turn by hand

Is there not a more efficient way to add these tailights. I hate cutting on the harness!

Found these pages http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/JDMtailwiring.html https://jdm-car-parts.com/blogs/news/wiring-euro-spec-tail-lights-for-us-spec-240-z

So I have a pair of euro taillights I want to install in Lily. I know they require some rewiring. I searched the forum but couldn't find a relavent thread. Maybe the librarian can or someone else can chime in on whats required

Im not sure this discussion furthers the forum...

So last weekend I reshot the car. started with white More yellow And then more clear I got some trash on the car after my second coat of clear. So I stopped and tried to use some reducer to get it out. I got it out but messed up my basecoat. So I stopped for the day, very put out. I found a forum where someone said I could stack more clear if it was within 16 hours. So I got up early the next day and fixed the basecoat in a couple of areas and stacked more clear. This weekend I have been wet sanding cutting and buffing. I should have done it by Wednesday but as usual work got in the way. The roof should really be shinier than this but I messed by starting with 1000 grit paper. It's just too coarse no matter what the internet says! I called the paint man who shot Cody's goon and he suggested I sand the roof dry with a DA and some fine grit. So I used some 1500 paper. It fowls quickly but I think I'm gonna be able to salvage the roof. I thought I was gonna have to reclear the roof. I will try to post up a new 5 dollar bill pic tomorrow. Passenger quarter is done. I have the roof all sanded and the drivers quarter sanded and ready for buffing. Hopefully tomorrow it will all be glossy and I can move onto mechanicals. It's a shame that my phone doesn't make pictures that really show how slick it is

So I did some rework on the car. The brown specks were pretty wide spread and very deep in the clear. I tried to sand them out but that made large dimples in the clear, So I had to redo the job You can see some of the dimpling in the glare of the light I also didn't like the joints in the door jambs so I added some more seam sealer there. Mask the joints off Run some seam sealer with a caulk gun Use a little lacquer thinner to smooth it down Then I masked off the problem areas and shot some high build primer Started blocking. You can still see the low spots

So we made a 0.005" shim and it locks the tranny up. Then we made a 0.003" shim and it also locks the tranny up. It's fine with no shim. I am inclined to leave it out entirely... @EuroDat

It's Indonesia! Relatively poor country. Working in flip flops. Using a paint gun that looks 20 years old! Props for how well it turned out. I struggle to get good results and I have 3 times the equipment they have

Which things in particular ?

Why would you make that statement? They seem to have done an excellent looking BC/CC job with very basic tools!

I ordered one too.

It is my understanding that oem rubber mustache bar bushings are NLA

That's bold Kats!

Yes, that is correct. After clearancing the thrust bearing I could turn the complete short block by hand Thanks Chas

Yes, with a gasket. The original shim was .335 mm but we checked and believe we need .072 mm currently. Using the .335 mm shim locks the tranny up

We trim the brass shim down and retorqued the nut and staked it. We use a driveshaft to help hold the shaft from turning while torquing. We checked the front cover clearance. The shim we have is 14 thousands thick. We checked the clearance with plasti gauge first It says we need about 2-3 thousands. We put the existing shim back in out of curiosity and the transmission wouldn't turn by hand. Took it back out and it turns free. I want to recheck with plasti gage and see if the gap is still the same... But it is moving forward...