Patcon

I believe they are soldered into the tank. You are probably just turning it to where the solder joint is thicker and it tightens up. It probably needs to be removed and taken to someone to be boiled out and resoldered. Radiator shop possibly?

I hope it works good for you. This is one of the parts I come across all the time that's needs replacing but the rebuild parts aren't really available. It would be nice if a DIY approach could be developed. You can buy them remanufactured but that is suspect too. The little early booster is sort of unobtainium now, so rebuilding is your only option for a purest...

When you butt weld like that, or pretty much anytime for that matter, you have to do just little spot welds 1/4" or so long at a time. Space them out 6-8". You have to let it cool a lot between welds. If you can touch it, and it feel relatively cool, it's too hot. Sometimes I used compressed air to help it cool, but that may do more harm then good. If you weld too much at a time the panel will warp, especially on our thin Japanese tin

Are they different on each S30 or all the same part? I may have one close at hand if the 280Z is the same

Did you check vacuum on the booster after rebuilding it? Many times the leaks is in the fold at the bottom of the booster. It is caused by brake fluid leaking into the booster from the master cylinder and degrading the rubber. Also were the seals around the center pushrods good. I have attempted similar fixes with mixed results. I found reassembly easier if you apply pressure to both halves, like in a vise or press before trying to rotated the upper half

"Big Blue" = Ford

Adhesives will work for some things but not others. You could install a full quarter with adhesive but patches in a floor would be hard to hide because you need a lap joint. No butting panels with adhesives. I have looked at using some of them but I would probably waste a lot of material because the tube would just sit for months between uses. The welding I do will work, is durable, time tested and will last longer than I will...

That was some serious hail. Surprised it wasn't visible from inside the hood too

Congrats Jim

That's not sludge! That's high density lubricant... I agree on the water in the oil suspicion

I understand , a man has to have a hobby. Hopefully not...there are cars to be finished

That's a nice early Z, I would recommend you don't modify the car in a way that is not reversible. The really early cars are some of the most sought after and hence the most valuable. The RB won't be easily reversible. The car should be plenty of fun with the Mikunis, a good cam and proper tuning...have fun

Are you headed back to the "sand box"?

Yes, but they're worth it

CO, Are those powered or could they be? They have a good shape for the car, if only they were the right color...

Wow, Lord help me. I own one, I know I do, I just don't know if I can lay my hands on it. I will try to look around this weekend for it. I sorta know where to start. I believe on the 280zx the interior panel is molded with a bump out to accommodate the wiper motor

Be safe... C

I think that was the question. I believe he is looking to replace the steel portion of the flywheel but needs to ID it first...

Leaking where? How?

Try running a temporary feed line straight to the battery just for the memory power. Does it still lose memory when starting? Yes >>> battery / voltage issue No>>> look for bad / corroded connections in the harness reducing the transmitted voltage this would be my suspension for deeper drop when wired to the acc key position worst case, find a good discreet source for memory power and leave it like that

I am not sure, but just guessing, the ring gear may be drilled in a different pattern or it is easier to bolt in a complete rear end then move the parts to a new case and get the mess and gear lash setup properly. It is evidently somewhat difficult to get the preload right. Plus with used parts the mesh would have to be very close to the way the previous case was or you can have gear whine... I would love to learn moving the ring and gear and chunk over from the STi case is possible as for me that seems easier. Another possibility is the output shafts from LSD chunk are splined differently than the factory outputs...

I bought some silver bullet mirrors that I will try to find. They look like the ones people run on the front fenders on 510's and old Z's. I ordered them from someone that came up through the forum. They were ordered from a vendor so I was able to order the passenger side with the wide view lens.

I don't believe drilling the glass is an option. The rear glass is tempered and drilling it will release the tension and explode the glass. I kept the rear wiper assembly from the 280zx turbo I parted out. I think it could be adapted in the earlier hatch fairly easily. You would need to add a switch somewhere...

We had a Miata for a while and the seats never bothered me. The car was so small inside for me they didn't have to be too supportive because I was wedged in there anyway. We had the speakers in the headrest too, and I loved them. They made the stereo so much easier to here at lower volumes

I recommend you get some small 4 oz samples from a paint supplier first. Shoot it on a test panel. You can even change the base color grey, black & white. The color will vary some based on the underlying color, unless you get a lot of color on the car. Then you can see the color in person in the daylight. Pictures on the computer don't always color render well.