Patcon

Even if I work it out you are always most welcome here!!!

@Diseazd @siteunseen I was looking on classic auto trader the other night. I was blown away by what people were listing cars for. Site I am sure you are under insured and Guy knowing the condition of your cars you are probably close to $10k per car short of where prices seem to be or will be shortly...

I like the grey Z you show first The original 918 is nice too I really like the GTR color and we saw one in Memphis painted that color. It looked really good... The Aston Martin color is cool too. The last two have a lot of metal flake in them. If you decide to do them get someone with experience to shoot the finish paint. It can be tricky to lay down metallic evenly and without blushing and the paint is expensive!

Thanks, Chuck A previous owner did a hack job on the harness. No telling what's been "improved"...

I will print this and try to run the tests on Saturday and report back...

I agree with Zup, the Z can be repaired but it would require a really good frame man and the title will most likely be branded "salvage". It's unfortunate but this car has probably seen it's day unless you are really motivated to fix her...

No! I thought I remembered something like that. I thought the seller should have taken that offer and run to the bank...

So sorry! I hope they make it right...

I agree...

that would be great Steve

Ok, so I worked on this some more today. Some previous owner has been under there hacking it up... Here is the homemade choke relay that is evidently always hot!! straight to the battery... I tried to upload some more but it is giving me an error... I pulled the factory headlight relay that is on the rear side of the passenger side strut tower on the inboard engine side. There are two relays there, I don't know what the other one is yet. I removed all the nasty sticky electrical tape that someone wrapped the harness in and found some melted wires. I will try to post pictures later... I traced the 2 black wires through the harness after I unwrapped it. I found a factory bond a little bit behind the battery. It looked good, like brand new. Took a meter and rang it out from the relay plug to the battery negative. Good continuity. so then I made a jumper wire out of a piece of 12ga solid copper. I tested the plug before jumpering it. With the headlights on I have 12voltls on the Red w/ White. I believe the high beam switch is the turn signal stalk. It moves forward and aft and stays in either position. Can somebody verify that. I couldn't ever get 12v on the Red w/ Black by itself. That may be a function of the relay. When I jumper between Black & Red w/ White I get headlights (High beams) When I try to jumper between Red w/ Black and Ground I don't get low beams. I need to double check the low beam filaments are good. I don't remember if I verified that with a meter. So at this point I believe the relay is bad. Was gonna replace that and see if I can get them to burn... Does that make the most sense or should I rework them now to reduce the load on the switches? @SteveJ

Wheel flairs? You need to be careful about your wheel size then. You can run a wider wheel with stretched tires (even though they look like your pants are too short IMO) because they fill the wheel wells differently. If you are going to run a regular wheel & rubber combination then you can get too wide for the wheel wells pretty easily

What was it? You can't leave us and future searchers hanging...

Are you gonna run stretched rubber like some of those pictures?

If I remember right it got to a pretty high number but still didn't meet reserve...

Those don't look like the Toyota brakes but they could be. The other side would have a number cast into. You could google that to figure it out. You also have vented disc up front which is one of the ways to do toyota brakes. Most people go with thinner rotors and the corresponding thin calipers. The vented disc are much wider than stock, so that is part of the reason for all of the spacers. What size are your wheels/ tires?

Jai Sort of lives in the country. Not much close and what is close is fairly small. I suspect there won't be a lot of options... Jai, Ask your painter or some other car guy you trust for a recommendation if you don't already know who to take it to.

the cowl vent use to mount to original heating unit and fresh air vent. Zed is right in his description. The beautiful shape these cars have tend to force air in from the rear of the car. Even if the windows are down. You will need to remove the interior panels at the rear and check all the places that hoses go through the body as well as the seals around the tail lights. also the hatch seals need to be good and it needs to latch properly...Seal them up either with the proper seals or some silicone based sealant

Thanks for the help Steve. I will start from there...

Cliff, Thanks for the article, but 510's don't have a combo switch. They have a pull switch on the dash and relay (who knows where). There also must be power through the turn signal switch because I believe that controls high beams...

I am hoping my scan is legible enough. This is the factory manual... I can probably enlarge parts if I need to. We are trying to get the light's working on Cody's wagon. Most of the running lights seem to work and the turns supposedly work per Cody but I haven't checked behind him yet. The problem is the headlights. He said they worked once and then not again. I have done some testing with a meter and both sides of the high beam lamp have battery voltage, that doesn't seem correct. I would think one would be power in and one would be ground. How can I have voltage on both sides?

That is a slick way to make a high pressure EFI tank. Now if you make an access hole in the rear floor board pump changes would be really easy...

Also I believe the EGR line connects on the bottom of the manifold. They can rot out if I remember correctly so the vacuum leak could be there. Use a mirror to look around under the rear of the intake manifold

That's great!

Good stuff!