Patcon

If you do the lap seams at the back of the pan and the original pan is on the bottom, you will need to be sure and seam seal it really well or that joint will pick up water. I like to butt weld the tunnel side and I would probably butt weld the front too. I believe there was originally a lap weld some where near the rear of the pan but I am not positive on that. I like to make my repairs as invisible as possible. I believe the less the car looks like a patch work quilt the better value it will have.

Those are big moves so early in the auction. Will be fascinating to see where it finishes

My first thought was cut and fill, but then I thought about it. Do you really have to cut it out first. Maybe you could just strip the area of paint and filler. Treat the rust, then weld a panel in flush with the quarter. If it ever became necessary to reverse the procedure, most of the metal would still be in place. Plus the edges of the relief will help prevent warping.

I think in the later cars maybe the 280zx had orange lettering. I am not sure a 280zx speedo has that shape to the housing. IIRC, In the states the 280zx cars did not have high speeds listed on the speedos because at the time the government didn't want to have them read very high. I think they read to 85mph. The rest of the world might have gotten 160mph units in the 280zx. My other guess would be it has been re-lettered with orange. I sort of doubt that though.

No on the 260 dash, yes it's sacrilege. I would think you could source the correct glove box door and heater controls from Aus or maybe Yahoo auctions out of Japan Don't have a clue on the orange instrument markings. What does the orange numerated speedo read up to? Also the tachs are different year to year and have different operating methods.

Ok, I need some ideas from you guys: I have been working on blocking out the car and checking panels. So a few years ago I did all the filling, primer and blocking on the rear hatch and then I shot yellow on the underside and edges.There are several areas on the lower flat of the hatch that have more than a skim coat of filler. Around the latch is one of these areas. I finally found the lock sets last weekend and put the lock in the hatch hole. I am not sure I can get the retainer on the back of the latch because of the overall thickness of the metal and the filler. There is very little of the slot showing on the lock cylinder. This spot is about an 1/8" overall in thickness. I don't know how thick the panel metal is. I suspect the panel is a little caved in from being closed over and over. So here is the problem. I like the idea of making the filler thinner, especially around the lock set. I am not sure I can pull the panel to make the filler thinner around the lock set. I wasn't sure shrinking the metal would work. I have concerns that if I try shrinking the panel that it won't be the correct shape. The hatch has a curve left to right. I do not know if the panel has a curve top to bottom. If it's supposed to be flat top to bottom, then shrinking my help. Also do anyone have ideas on how lift the center of the panel. I think the stud welder would just make a mess. I might be able to run a long flat block on the inside of the panel, tie a wire to it and use some light pulling to lift the dented area. If I go the shrinking route I will have to strip the hatch and start over. Thoughts?

Some things are traditionally clear zinc and some are yellow zinc. I have always liked the look of the correct color parts, but it is not always possible to get them done in the right color.

Did they offer yellow zinc?

Aircraft stripper works really good! It will burn you if you splash yourself. It is dangerous stuff so work in a ventilated area. It can be difficult to purchase in some areas. I have used a lot of it over the years and it is my go to method for stripping old paint. Respirator is highly recommended!!

Did you do everything silver (clear) zinc or is some of it yellow zinc?

You're getting there. Keep it up

These have been mentioned in the past. I think it is a beautiful way to achieve EFI. Might go this way one day

Love that Chevy! I had one like it but with out the 5 window cab. Sold it in pieces to an older guy when my kids were young. More tuition...

Ouch!! I hate to tear up the diesel and the parts aren't cheap.

Beautiful car! Worth every penny!

My preference is butt welds, when possible

Absolutely!!!

Yes, of course. Find a good machine shop and you should be good.

"Look away, look away, look away..." Do I get to shoot the rope?

I like it!

The forward mounted sway bar can bind in certain situations. The rear mounted bar is a better option. I would suspect binding on the bar or rust at the mounting points broke it.

Zcon 2019 Write it down, go ahead and schedule that vacation!

Are you trying to keep the numbers matching block? If not, I would source an L28 block and go that way. If I wanted to keep numbers matching, I would try to source a seized or blown up block off of CL. The block will have to be "line bored" anyway once you install new caps. It probably won't be much if any cheaper to just source caps because it renders the donor block useless.

I am not sure I would buy inner wheel wells if I was going to flair the car. I would want the flairs in hand and I might just extend the metal on out to the quarter. That way I can run big rubber without worrying about rubbing the wheel arch. I would cut the wheel arch up to clear the rubber but still be hidden by the wheel arch.