Patcon

Happy Thanksgiving to all my "Diseazed" friends and those I haven't met yet!! Have fun, be safe and enjoy your family.

Ohhh? this sounds like I need more details of that!

You have done really well, considering you are learning on the fly! I try to make a point of shooting the edges really well when I paint. Edges like that always seem to be thin. I don't really know what causes that but I tend to intuitively add paint there when possible. Single stage is a more correct paint for these classic cars, but it can be more difficult to repair flaws. You paint looks really good after the cut & polish!

There is scheduled testing in Missouri!!!

All modern closed loop systems are built around O2 sensors. The fueling is modulated by the ECU based on the O2 sensors. If it didn't work and was unreliable than it wouldn't be the default engine model. Everything from Ford to Ferrari to Bugatti do it this way...unless I am mistaken.

Yes, you should!!! You shot single stage, didn't you? It is harder to touch up, than two stage. The halo you got, was the color good on that repair area? If so you might could have wet sanded the halo out. Then cut and polish

Ok, got it. I would still go at it the same way. Look for places where the metal got stretched and shrink those. If you over shrink an area you can dolly it to stretch back out a little.

Ouch!!! That makes Porsche maintenance look cheap! ?

I am having a hard time telling what I'm looking at. I would hammer & dolly it the best I could, then shrink what ever areas needed it. A propane torch and a wet rag or a shrinking disc and a wet rag. It doesn't have to get that warm to work.

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Love the new lift!

You can get original looking wire clamps off Ebay too if some of yours get too bad.

What's wrong with those????

Was going to like this post but I will just tell you "I like this post" Are there any pics of the L28ET header?

That's harsh, but I bet it's not too far from the truth

Evidently his compensation was about half what other top CEO's at his level were making. I am sure that is a big part of how guys at this level keep score, which at some point is what this is all about. You also need a little creative accounting sometimes when you need to pay for your parties at Versaille https://www.townandcountrymag.com/the-scene/weddings/a9634/versailles-wedding/

That's a shame. You have to wonder how many sub 1500 cars got parted or scrapped, because "they were too far gone". Today's too far gone is very different than just a few years ago and the standard will continue down.

Well that sounds like somebody made a dumb decision

I took my data plate out of the door jamb and found some of the correct size rivets to put it back later. I put it in the fire box with the title, so I don't misplace it. That way I don't have to mask around it

Yeahhhhh, NO! I can take 20 pairs and send them to Z therapy for that! and they will be roller bearing when they come back. Even if I had to buy cores, I could probably do 12 sets.

I think the point he is trying to make is: ...not trusting parts that look suspect. If you're going to touch it, go ahead and make sure it's good. Of course the Datsun way for many people has been run until it breaks, then patch it. These have been cheap cars for many years. That has changed greatly recently. I tend to come down more on the side "if it ain't broke don't break it" I have limited funds to throw at projects. The exception being if I want it pretty, then by all means tear it apart and plate everything!

My question wasn't about sitting between the test, but whether the engine sat for a number of years before you got it. Some times the rings get stuck from sitting and can give low numbers like this. Doing a dry then a wet test can show this too.

I guess my hope for an NOS would be good fit to the chassis and very little filler. After that I don't know that anyone other than a really skilled body man could tell whether a panel was NOS or off a donor. As for cost, if I am building a $70k+ pristine low number car and a NOS quarter is what I need, then I pay-to-play. I could see paying 3K if it's something I really need. Like I said I can't see paying that over a good SouthWest donor. Of course I don't own any of the really special cars.

Also did this engine sit for an extended period of time. I don't recall if that has been mentioned or not. Those numbers aren't good. You need to double check those numbers and like Zed said make sure you do each cylinder exactly the same way. I don't really care about cold and warm. What I want to know is dry or wet. After you do the initial test squirt a little motor oil in each cylinder. If the numbers come up then it's a ring issue. If they don't its generally a head issue. I would also adjust the valves before I did another test

That one is beyond restoration. You can find some good used ones or buy the Asian reproductions. Repros are still better than shorted lights