Patcon

Finally, the actual translator

Sounds like a good father in law.

I think I would go the drill welds and replace route. I might change my mind if I could see it. More pics might help. Grannyknot likes pictures...

I used 1500 then 2000 wet. Soak in a bucket of warm water with a little bit of dish soap in it. I used a hard foam block designed for sanding (it's blue on one side black on the other) and just wrapped the paper around it. I have a Makita digital VS buffer that I used for cut and buff. Pads are sold specifically for cut and buff. They are color coded for which ever activity. IIRC the black pads are cut and the white pads are buff. I used 2 liquid products I got from my local Finish master. I believe it is their in house product. Didn't have any real issues but it's a little nerve racking to take sand paper to fresh paint.

Ok, I haven't done an amperage test on the tacho yet because it was cold today and I didn't feel like messing with it. I did adjust the timing a little. We had about 6d at idle and about 33d all in at 3000 rpm's. I moved it to 9d at idle. It seemed to clear it up some. How much total advance can I run? I think some more initial advance would be good but I don't want too much OA. I have a matchbox dizzy. I could unhook the VA and run more initial advance. Thoughts? We have a speedo problem. Coming home from Zcon he didn't want to run 85mph. I told him we were running about 70. By the time we got home, his speedo would read almost to 100 mph. We took it apart and checked it. Seemed like to grit in the speedo case but it rotated freely. Can I spray some lubricant into the speedo without damaging it? Any other ideas? We took the ends off the 5 spd tranny. Looked pretty good to me. But I didn't see the infamous oil gutter Anybody see any issues? @Captain Obvious, @zKars @Dave WM We started with this for an input shaft I sanded the snout and it looks ok. The pitting is very light and hard to feel except with a finger nail. I could probably remove almost all of it, but I don't want to overly reduce the ID. I had to file and sand each spline after wire wheeling to get it clean enough for this There is this long gutter in the rear case Is there supposed to be a short gutter in the main mounting plate? This is a 280ZX transmission. I don't know the exact year. Is there supposed to be a gasket at either of the mating surfaces. There was only sealant at both transmission halves. Let me know if I need to make any other pics Thanks Guys

I like the shape of the door and the side glass, I like the way the rear behind the wheel rises quicker than the stock Z. The A pillars are non existent and wouldn't work. It would look really sharp with a good air dam up front.

The little pitting at the quarter window, I wouldn't worry about. Treat it and just skim coat it. As far as leaving previously painted areas, I agree with Grannyknot, what ever your comfortable with. It makes me nervous to leave it. So I strip it. If it's bonded good and no cracking or bubbling it should be good. That A pillar is a mess. I would send your one but the postage is awful, Zkars might have a donor. A donor makes that repair much easier

As they all should!

Branson!!!

I have a very similar app and a bluetooth obd reader. I can watch all my 7.3 values in real time. Very cool and very help for diagnosis

ok, that makes sense I did a little looking. Looks like it might be a hard find. You might could rework one. Under the plating the tube is soldered or brazed in. Heat it and reverse it and have it replated. Not a very cheap way to do it, but it should get you to where you want to be

I will see if I can set up an ammeter measurement with what I have. I watched the needle, it never moved in any of the 4 configurations I will post this in here too. Retro fit repair for a 510 tach using newer parts. This would probably work for a Z tach too, if needed http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2011/08/tech-how-to-510-factory-tachometer.html

@Jem2749

So that sounds like my loop measurements are correct. The crimps on the gauge make me wonder if they're good Here is the link http://elfecc.no-ip.info/510/Tachometer/Simplified_Tach_Hookup.htm

Yes, I got them from the auction. They had some 17 drawers cabinets that were about 60" high that I liked but they got close to $1000 each. When I went to load up, there was a guy there that bought like 5 of them and the bridgeport among other things. I think he was flipping merchandise.

So I assume the fitting is not reversible for some reason?

I like the blue car the least... YES!

They only got 5-10 days in jail???

@Captain Obvious If you're feeling OCD, you could send me that bracket and bolts during the salt season and I can make it pretty for you!

Paint thinner is used to clean up Aircraft stripper. when it comes into contact with the thinner it becomes very rubbery and is essentially neutralized. I don't think I would try to strip just one layer of paint with aircraft stripper, because even if a layer doesn't come off it seems to be softer from the applied stripper. Mark, I love the look of factory metal after the paint is removed. Just think, that is how the panels looked in the factory 42 years ago! (Give or take)

If the floor boards were rotten then I would be amazed if there wasn't more rust. I would want to see that one in person. Look for bubbles or swelling seams, like under that vin plate. I suspect the flairs were added to deal with issues in the quarters.

I believe a lot of this is misunderstanding and the limitations of communicating through a forum. I dont think zed head is trying to impugn or injure anyone but for all I know he got taken by someone on the internet and is a little suspicious now. We have also occasionally had discussions on altering vins in the past and some people are more ok with that then others. As these cars become more valuable and the production history is so hit or miss it may become a bigger problem. History has shown zed head to always be available to help solve problems. By the way I'm not paranoid if everyone's really out to get me. ?

Be mindful that not all of our members live in the hill country of Texas. We as a forum group have done a good job of not letting politics get in the way of our fellowship and enjoyment of our cars. We have members from all parts of the US and I am sure we are not monolithic in our political views, and we don't need to be to enjoy getting together and inhaling exhaust fumes. It would probably be best to leave posts that include politics or political views unsubmitted... Just my 2cents

500k is a lot of tools. Snap-on makes good tools but you can buy most of those tools 2 or 3 times for what tool trucks sell tools for.

I have seen boxes like this for 3k new. Amazing amount of money