Patcon

I buy them off Ebay or Amazon. More challenging for those of you North of the border. I try to get one like this, then I have one that has more room behind the jaws to get around flanges and such and I have one that will join up 10 or so weld on studs to pull. I also have a wide one that has double jaws

Yeah, that's a good way to get hurt. I don't bounce the way I use to and that concrete gets harder every year!

I have a selection of Mo-clamps like this. They are not very expensive but they grip tighter the harder you pull

Sounds good, but I need to use a post dated check in lieu of PayPal!!!

How did you attach to the backer plate? Did you bolt a strap to it? Some good frame clamps help a lot in this situation

I would love a little more explanation on how you made that backer plate patch panel

CL add out of Pompano beach no affiliation https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/d/pompano-beach-datsun-240z/6814337779.html

Maybe Zed or someone can back me up, but I thought there was a small screw on the back of the tach. I would try to adjust it with the car idling and see if I could get the tach to show an rpm at idle. If I could, then use a timing light with an rpm display to try to get it adjusted properly. After calibrating the idle rpm, check the tach versus the timing light at a few different rpm's for confirmation

If you're going to build something that looks like that and with those license plates it needs to have some horsepower to back it up!!! The stock L28 doesn't quite back it up.

I wonder if you could adjust the calibration screw to get the tach reading correctly? Thoughts?

The FSM also speaks to those holes. I think they are supposed to be filled with a grub screw, but they weren't there on the rack I tore down.

Yes they come apart, 30mm wrench if I remember correctly. They need to move but not flop around. The FSM has some specs for them. The 240z has a reservoir that is NLA .

Were the ashtrays clear zinc and not chrome?

Any issues with the baked parts being a different color?

When you were talking about the radiator earlier, I almost chimed in to say you could keep the stock look and just go to a three row radiator core if cooling is an issue. Evidently that has already happened. You shouldn't have cooling issues, at least due to the available cooling area...

Are you doing the post plating bake or the plater?

I would really be surprised if they didn't all come from the same source ultimately. The market just isn't big enough for multiple companies to making stamping dies

Tabco, JDM and MSA are the only ones I know of. Some people refer to it as a slam panel

Many years ago, the last time I looked for it, I think I found it at NAPA. Today, I would do what you did and just order it.

Ospho is an acid and you shouldn't be inhaling it. I normally do that kind of stuff outside but I don't normally wear a respirator. As long as you can't really smell it you should be good. Of course I could be wrong...

Nope. The gasoline will dissolve it

I am unfamiliar with the 78 tank. On the 76 tank the lines come in near the center of the tank and go into a central area that is baffled to prevent fuel sloshing. I would expect the dent in your tank is not the issue

What year car? It's not in your signature line...

I would rather not see rust on a 280zx. The older cars rusted because they weren't galvanized. The newer cars rusted much less and were sealed better to prevent it. The hood has bondo and the front lip is rusted. I suspect more of that in there somewhere...

It is a nice tool and priced accordingly