5thhorsemann

Impressive. OK, not really, we aren't talking about get ready to drag race and hook up the hot rubber, we are watching a guy simply burn tires off his car. Cool way to exit a wedding though. Let me ask you a question Ovenfood....................Would you take those two beauties to a burnout comp, rather than a race track?

When trouble troubles me, I trouble trouble........................Unknown. 49% of the people in the world are of below average intelligence. That’s mine, so if anyone wants to use it, it will cost a nickel, at least the first three times, unless I get the credit

If the bench adjustment was so far off that the valves weren't closing and allowing unspent fuel to explode into the exhaust system, yea, theres a problem. The cold adjustment of the valves should be loose (noisy) but the motor should run well enough to get through the break in period at which point you take it to him and he does the hot adjustment. It has no relation to a carb setup, the carbs are flow bench adjusted to a meanial standard, whereas the valves are adjusted to a known set of mechanical measurements. Worst case, the builder should have told Zdude to do the brake in regiment and then come in for a hot adjustment, after all, it's not a track car with a pit crew, it's a classic car with an old fangled in line 6 and a shade tree mechanic/ owner. (No offence Zdude)

Speakers are inductive loads, not resistive loads, the speakers will sound like crap in series, you need the crossover to run two 4 ohm speakers and get any kind of sound quality.

Go look at the car and decide if you want it, but don't get into money with the seller. Tell them you'll have to "think about it". Get your drop dead price calculated and send in a friend that you trust, with cash in hand, to make a low ball offer. Tell him to start low and go 75% of what you are willing to pay, if she bites you get the car cheap, if not go back and start your negotiation at 60% and work your way up. That way she will have already been offended by a lower than expected offer, and even if she won't come off the car for what you are willing to pay, she has your number and highest offer. Remember that the economy sucks, and things aren’t selling the way they once did. I would get the shill buyer to start around $500.00, based on the pics. Good Luck! looks like a solid starting point car.

So I have been searching threads and trying every suggestion and idea to get rid of the front end shimmy on my 73 240Z, and all I have managed to do is move the speed range at which the steering wheel vibration comes and goes. So last night a friend and I went after the problem with a vengeance. We first took the rotors and wheels off the front and put them on the road force balancer he uses to do his race car tires. This machine is the hooptie, you can spin the tires really fast and then test the balance by applying pressure to the tire as it spins, really cool. Front right was 1/2 oz. out by its self, and 1.25 oz out with the rotor attached. We stripped off the weights and suddenly the wheel was out by 8 oz.'s! We then match balanced the tire to the rim, and the rim to the rotor, and we were back down to a manageable 2.75 oz's which we split the weights 75/25 between the inside and outside of the rim (based on the offset) The wheel spun perfect on the machine. We then repeated the process L/F and did just the wheels and tires on the back. It was late when we finished and I wasn’t going to do the road test with beers in my belly on a Friday night for fear Johnny Law would get his long arms into my life. This morning we got some breakfast, went to his shop and got the car. There was almost no traffic on I-83, and I could go for it, I am proud (and amazed) to say that there is no remnant left of the shimmy all the way up past 105 MPH!!! In fact, the car is smooth as an eel, I let go of the wheel at top speed (didn’t take my hand off, just let go, I'm no idiot) and the car tracked strait and the wheel looked just like the car was sitting still. Thanks to all for the information herein, and remember kids, there is no mechanical problem that can't be fixed, endeavor to persevere. VEVA 240Z !!!!

Crutchfield? Critchfield? Something like that.............

Stumbled across this old thread while doing a search and had to wake it up again. Two of my favorites Quote "If you don't start no sh!t, there wont be none" My dear old dad. Quote "No matter how hot she is or sweet she looks, some guy, some where, is sick of her sh!t" Unknown Genius.

This is all correct, I assumed the stock speaker was an 8 ohm, my bad.

you will need to put a cross over transformer in before the speakers to ballance the impeadence at the output of the radio, works like a splitter if you will. I would also reccommend you replace the original speaker with a new set of speakers to insure the speakers are ballanced as well.

And here I've been spending all this time and money trying to keep my car hooked up to the road. Could have just kept putting cheap tires on the back. Like I said, whats the point.

Don't forget the fourth and fifth things, "I have line locks" and "My daddy is going to buy me new tires for my birthday"......................Phuctard.

Whats the point?

Pressure test the system, they do make tools for testing the cooling system. It's a whole lot faster and easier than waiting for the ghost in the machine to show its self.

Soooo......................They want to charge you to adjust the valves once in the car, as apposed to on the engine stand in their shop? I think you need to find a mechanic that isnt going to beat the crap out of you on price and charge you for doing things they MISSED the first time around.

It doesn't look too bad, but it really sucks when these "little" spoiler accidents happen. Lots of work to fix little damage. Sorry to hear 'bout your luck.

The only spare I don't have in the car is a tire.

I thought the V rated WXW's were a really soft compound, for traction.

I dont want to brag or anything, but this is my answer to the cable question. With these crimpers I can make any size or shape of cable immaginable.

You could have your new covers dyed to get them closer rather than trying to buy another set, just an idea.

I think the 70/14 is slightly taller than a 60/15, the 60/14 should be roughly an inch shorter than the 60/15 which should do away with your slight rub. You dont need a v rated tire, but they (XWX) are a much more agressive compound than whats on it now which will give added grip, but the 70/14 has more sidewall to "give" in turns. I think it's a wash when it's all said and done. See if you can find a set of wheels and mount them as a swap set in stead of changing your new tires out, you can always resell the swap set with the free tires and get your money back. There's my 2 cents.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-Seat-Upholstery-Kit-Off-White-NEW-1970-1973-/270832573016?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f0ee11a58 Just so happens I ran across these this morning, calling them off white, but they look much whiter than what you have.

I used a truck tire innertube to form the gasket and glued an ATV drive shaft boot to it to seal the shaft. I was getting exhaust fumes through that area, thought it was comming from the shifter boot but that was all good, the E brake was the issue, FWIW.

A sign that size printed and mounted on a rigid backing would go for around 40 bucks, add some fancy trim and you are around $55