KAL7467

what is the best way to remove the metal piece of trim abouve the windows. I have a little rust that I need to get rid of and having them off would make the job tons easier. any suggestions...can supply pics later today if needed...thanks in advance

thanks guys...funny you mention that Steve because on Friday i was sitting at work contemplating gutting every single wire out of the z and making my own harness. I think it would be a neat project as well as peace of mind that all the connectors are secure and not broken down by age...only reason I would attempt this is because I make harnesses for police cars all the time at work and am very familiar with the process and from what I can see there really is not that much wires in the Z harness to begin with...

saw his kit and looks like it is exactly what I have in mind. it seems to replace the points dist with a electric one and also replaces the coil with a higher powered aftermarket one. When searching around the forum I see many have gone this route...and seem to be pleased but some say they have problems with their tach and some don't... 1.why is that? 2.are their any other parts recommended to do this swap(I was thinking of upgrading the stock wiring going to the coil with higher gauge wire) should I do new plugs and wires at the same time? any recommendations at all would be great so I can do it all at once, on a side note what alternator upgrade are people using for the 240 I have heard about people using one from a 280zx and swapping to a volt gauge from said car and I was sure I saw a site outlining this but cant find the link...anyone randomly know what site I am talking about had a bunch of Z upgrades numbered...thanks in advance

you guys rok...I am going to basically do what Davis did and except maybe use dynamat to keep things quiet

thanks for clearing all that up guys and gals I think I nowe better understand the system and am going to clean all the contacts today at lunch...also if it makes a difference in wireing diagrams my car is a 71 modle but was made in 9/70 and is a series one with the vents on hatch lid e31 head ect...if that makes any difference....on a side note someone mentioned wires for a electric fuel pump but no pump is it common for early z owners to add one?

Thanks Steve I will clean them up tomorrow. I came up with the same wire colors when I was tracing the system a bit(need to get my hands on a wiring diagram) so you are saying black/white wire from ignition relay to fuse block then green wire to all the components? The relay that gives the black/white wire power clicks when ignition is turned on but the times that the components don't work the relay does not click...That is why I am thinking it is sticking. I am not sure if that would make it heat up...as for the connectors, I wire and equip police/gov vehicles for a living so my shop has all kinds of connectors...I was not worrying about being period correct at this point just using what I have. If you need any amp pin connectors let me know I have tons.

o well worked on it a bit and made some progress. the plug going into the pass side of the firewall was corroded and some pins were loose so i re pinned and replaced with new plug. This did not fix the problem but needed to be done. Next I wiggled the wires on the right side of the dash going into the console and click everything went on. Found the fuse that controls those systems(third one up on the left side of fuse block) it was a little warm... then i realized that every time i took the fuse out and back in the ignition relay clicked and everything worked. My thought is that the ancient ignition relay is sticking and causing the fuse to heat up until it finally clicks...so now i am going to replace it with a more modern relay or a oem one if I can find one...any thoughts?

thanks all will check it out today hopefully the wire chaseing gods will be on my side

forgot to mention that when I pulled into my driveway which is a bump everything started working again on impact...will check all that you mentioned tomorrow when I do a oil change in my shop...

Got the z on sat and since then replaced under hood bulb and glove box bulb did not mess with any other electrical stuff. went to dinner tonight and everything was peachy in the z...on the way home I notice the blinkers don't work so I try the hazards and they work...then I notice that only the spedo was working no other gauges...well the amp meter was in the middle... I assume this is because it taps directly off the battery and the spedo is not electrical...not sure where to start but I think I am looking for a loose connection on a plug...any ideas? thanks in advance

Mine is L24 013529 E31 09/70 VIN HLS30 10068 KAL7467 not sure where I get that other number that I am missing.

thanks man pics up in my other post in this section

thanks gary and walter

cool guys thanks I assume one of the previous owners removed the emissions device since it is not required here in Georgia but since the car is from California it was prob required there...does that sound right? is there any advantage to not having it there? Also if it helps identifying the carbs there is a raised japan e46 stamp with a symbol(Hitachi) 2 on the manafold

great thread guys I learned a lot found out that mine is l24 013529 and matches my VIN HLS30 10068 on the strut tower stamp...this makes me happy since for some reason I thought it may have been Frankensteined since the valve cover is not one of the earlier ones that the OP mentioned with ohc 2400 on it

and that is what I was trying to do get some stuff I need...I stated in my first post I saw the prices on eBay IMO they were a bit too high...I wasn't looking to sell it or rip anyone off just trade for some stuff I am in need of... seems to me the "forum Police" got a little ahead of themselves and tried to make me look bad before understanding what was being said, especially since they guy who offered trade knew exactly what I was getting at...just defending my integrity:)

OK just picked up this 71 and noticed that the adjuster on the front carb seems to be missing a spring on the lever opposite of where the adjustment screw is. I am pointing to the hole where I believe one end of the spring goes. my question is "where does the other end of the spring go" I assume somewhere above the lever to cause tension but don't know much about carbs so thought I would ask someone who does. looked at a ton of pics on this forum but cant seem to find one close enough up from the right angle...thanks in advance...also do I need to take the whole air cleaner box off to identify what type carbs they are or can it be recognized by the pics below?

i think u misunderstand my reply there was no pulling back anything and i think the guy who offered the trade understands that i would want more than a map light and emblem which is why he told me to send a complete list of what I want to swap to his email...I think you are reading into what I said a bit too much and looking for something to call me out on...

yes of course i would want more i was just throwing out examples of stuff i am looking for. thank you for looking out for my best interest though...that is rare on a forum in my experience...

I see them going for quite a bit on eBay and have one sitting in a box in mint condition with the booklet and all. The woman I bought the car from says it worked when she swapped it out for a CD player. f anyone needs it i would be glad to swap it for some other parts(inter bits and such,hatch Datsun emblem,dome light etc)

slept on it and am going to go for the wesco ones because as you say the geometry would be off a bit for the other ones and the binding could get annoying

go for it...you only live once

i see guess i need to think this over ...u say the wesco ones are more functional?.. mabye ill go the rout of modernizing up the z instead of worrying about keeping it 70" style

good idea with the steel I have a ton of scraps at my shop. I believe there is only one hole at that point but I was planning on mounting the adjuster and strap from the same point. With the straight bracket wouldnt they mount the same as the wesco one or am I not seeing this correctly?

I found this pair that has a nice retro look to them with the chrome latch style...about the same price think I may try them. I will just need to bang that L bracket flat and install should be a snap http://www.seatbeltsplus.com/product/WSCH300.html