Healey Z

Hmmmm...it looks like Datsun changed hoses in 72. they have much different shapes to them. Here is a hose specified from 1/71 to 6/72 I'm not interested in concourse or being correct, I just want to make sure the two ends go to the right place and don't interfere with anything.

Kind of a franken motor N42/47 with an E88 intake all within a 1963 Austin Healey. I noticed there are different PCV hoses listed for the different 240z model years. Anyone know which year PCV hose would work for my set-up?

Very nice...great pics.

very wide motor. I had a cobra kit car with a 5.0, which has an engine width of 19 inches versus close to 30 inch for the 4.6

It looks like it is made by ITB...just what you see there is $2K. I raised the motor as high as it would go, moved it as far over to the driver side as it would go and with the 260Z spacer and a few hits with the ball peen hammer, I think it may just make it. I will need to work on the motor mounts first, trans mount second and then do the final fitting of the intake. I am going to make some 1/4 inch plate spacers for the motor mounts, to give me some room to make some final adjustments. This will take some time for me to do, but I will create a new post when completed.

Mikuni's on a short intake, with a short air horn is 10 inches....I have 8 inches of room straight out from the head. Is anyone familair with who makes this fuel injected system?

Thanks PK. Met with a machine shop: $300-$500...arg. I'm going to move the motor forward and look for another path before I drop 3-5 bills on something that may not work.

Thanks for tip on the spacer. It looks like the thin one comes from a 260Z....anyone have a set they want to sell? I'm heading to the machine shop to see how much it would cost to mill the intake, like I've shown. Another thought is a wedge at the intake, although that creates other problems.

Just to be clear, the engine picture above is from an original Healey. Here is a picture of my interference problem areas. Note the 2x4 engine mounts, which shows how much I will need to raise the motor. JL, thanks for the offer. I'll let you know.

Perhaps, but no more than a car making a sharp turn.

Guys, all great responses! I think everyone touched on some element of what I think will be a solution. I went to an all British car show today and was able to look at some Healeys. As soon as I took a look at the motor, I thought yes, there may be a solution to use the SU's, with spacers, without hacking up the car. Their motors sits higher and further foward in the engine bay than mine does. The intake on the Healey is also slanted, which gives it clearance in the one trouble spot. I disconnected the motor/trans mounts and jacked it up pretty high (1 1/2 inches) and that helped a bunch, still not good enough, but it helped. It looks like I can also pull the motor forward a half inch. Of course this messes up other things like the exhaust, radiator hoses, engine mounts, trans mounts etc, but all doable. I figured I can mill a 10 degree angle on the intake and still have half the width at the top flange. I have some other things to figure out, but that might give the the space I need where the SU hits the foot box. If not, the smaller spacer (thanks PK) or some creative things on the bottom of the float bowl of the SU (or a strategic ballpeen hammer blow to the foot box) may get me there. I took a bunch of pictures of linkages, as I know that challenge is coming.

I picked up this project last year; 1963 Austin Healey with a Z motor. It had a custom built manifold with two 32/36 down draft webers. I wanted to go back to SU's, but my measurements were off and I have two choices. Cut into the footbox of the car, which I really want to avoid, run without spacers or go back to the webers. Running without spacers certainly isn't a preference, but wondering if this is even a possibility.

Has anyone run SU's without the spacers between the carb and the manifold?

Charles, I went on Z Therapy's web site and saw what you were talking about: very nice. ZT128 Euro-Style Balance Tube Polished and Plated, All extra holes are Welded Shut, Ground down smooth and polished $160.00 + core If I can pick up an extra one, this may need to be a future project for me.

Arne, WOW, that engine compartment is incredible! I will look for that port for the vac advance. Thanks. I was able to sneak out at lunch and go look at a '73 Z running without a smog pump. Basically, EVERYTHING was plugged off. I can't say it was that attractive looking, but it made things pretty clear: strip the part down and plug everything except for the PCV inlet. 1 Gas in 2 Gas in 3 PCV tube in 4 plug 5 plug 6 plug 7 vent tube to aircleaner 8-10 plug

Arne, you're the man. Thank you for the response, you really hit the questions right on the head, it is appreciated. I don't think I will have clearance for the stock aircleaner box, so I will look for some horns. Where does the disti draw it's vacuum from? No power brakes on the car, it is as raw as it gets, it does however have the factory disc brakes up front and stops reasonably well. The Z motor swap was done about 25 years ago, as far as I can gather from the box of receipts I have. It has been a fun project and installing the SU's should get it back on the road. Here is a picture back from paint, with no engine/trans.

Also, how important is it to route cooling water through the intake?

Thanks for the replies. I did look at the FSM and since I will not be using the airpump, can those items simply plug these items 1 Gas in 2 3 PCV tube in 4 5 6 7 vent tube to aircleaner

I'm replacing the dual weber down draft set-up with some stock SU's in my '63 Healey with an L28 / 5 speed. I just received this box in the mail with most of the parts I need, and servicable SU's. Here is a picture of the car and a picture of the manifold/carbs. I have a lot of cleaning to do, before they find their way onto the car, but I would appreciate the feedback of the function of each opening and what is suppose to go there.

Thank you for the replies. The current set-up uses a different manifold.

I'm replacing my dual downdraft weber set-up. I bought a pretty complete and servicable intake and set of SU carbs. While complete, they are pretty rough looking. What is the best way to clean them up, perhaps adding a little shine to the top of the SU's?

That is a cool tip! Thanks Blue, hopefull I will feel some lobe and rewire accordingly.

Blue, thanks for the reply. Let me think through this, perhaps my logic is wrong. The crank goes around 2X for every time the disti goes around once. So, the timing marks on the pulley are at TDC twice for every time that rotor goes around compression, exhaust stroke. Perhaps I did have it right and the timing just needed to be adjusted to get stop the backfiring (or there is another issue going on). I'll get it back on TDC and pull the valve cover to see where the valves are. Hopefully the exhaust valve is open and I simply have the wires off 180 degrees and need to put them back to where they were. , when the rotor is pointing to a contact within the cap it is always firing and is at the compression stroke.

I dropped a new long block motor in the car, using my old petronics disti from 240z and dual down draft webers. It started, but backfired through the carb like an old school bus. It is clear that something was way off, I started fresh with the ignition timing/firing: - crank position is right on the TDC mark on pulley. - physical check of #1 piston (closest to radiator) is at TDC - I then set #1 spark plug wire to where rotor is pointing. - Went counter clockwise 153624 Car will not even fire now. I then rolled it back in the garage to give me time to think about it. Any thoughts? Ken

Pretty straight forward. Look at your pink slip. If the model year is 1975 or older, it is exempt from smog inspections. http://dmv.ca.gov/online/vrir/faqsmog.htm