biker

Check the rubbers on the tranverse link by giving it a bit of a tug (no, the tranverse link!) and look for any movement. Not the exhaust banging around?? BTW - NSW were only interested in getting up to Caxton Street to chase the mighty beer and women. Heard they had a table booked at one of the local eateries for 8.30pm. They were not playing a game of footy. Heard they enjoyed the beer including the ones at half time! Biker

You may be able to adapt a hand throttle cable from the 70's Nissan Patrol 4WD who had them as well. There main purpose was to set idle when using accessories such as winches, etc. Use them with caution. They have to be pushed back in to turn them off, none of this you beaut touch the brakes to disengage. Biker

Now I know what you are talking about. As Halz explained I always knew it as the birdhsh*t catcher on the front of the car How come you blokes don't speak the queens bloody english! A hood is something you put on to make sure the missus doesn't see you out with the boys. Regards Shirly Biker Temple:cheeky:

"Bravo" Bravo The nuns where I went to school would not let me lift my head. Supposed that is why maths was difficult for me.

I would look at the points also and see if they are pitted and regap them.

Hey that is really neat!!!! Virtual diagnostics:classic: I would put my hand up and say it was in the top end. If you turn the stereo up, the sound will go away.

Might be worth disconnecting the pipes to see how far the fluid is getting to. Start with the master cyclinder to see if you are getting anything going into the pipe from there. Maybe a blockage with rubbish or air. biker

What's a bonnet???????????????????

With the stiffer type of bushing, it may contribute. Look around the race track and you do see a lot of Zeds with stress cracks around the roof line particularly near the hatch. biker

I am a little confused?? How did a $262.00 plus freight restoration as quoted by Dashboard Restorations get to read $850.00:stupid: which is what is being paid for at MSA biker

I won some Fuch oil at the races last year and gave it a go. Seemed pretty good as pressure was up and thickness stayed for a lot longer. However, a mate has said that he has been noticing the smoke for some time following me round the track :cheeky: but can't remember when he first noticed it.

Beandip Several blokes from Oz????? - seems like hundreds of us!!!!!

No problem Andrew A litre of oil every 100 klicks - whoohoo its got to be going somewhere:D

Wish I had $20K but my missus prefers to spend it on a new house:cry: PS - She has allowed me a 3rd garage so that I can work on the Zed without spilling oil and grease in the main garage:love: Biker

Just bringing this topic back to the top Anyone with any advice???????

Well Z Kid When you think about it there is a lot of logic there in these examples. Where do we get these signs from -- not from the yokels I hope:classic:

I have noticed lately that my poor little Zed is starting to blow a bit of blue smoke under acceleration. I was hoping that it was fuel but something tells me it is probably oil.. Power is still good and oil pressure has no noticable change except at idle where it seems to drop a bit lower than normal and I can smell oil fumes in the car. I usually associate blue smoke with either rings or valve seals. Anyone got an idea on how to eliminate one or the other. Any other suggestions as it seems to be more noticable since I changed the coil to a higher voltage.

I want to see a photo of the clock working!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tanny I always do mine when its stone cold after the car has sat over night. that way the adjustment should be okay everytime.

I like Rick always use a socket wrench on the crank and set the engine to top dead center -- including the cam to top dead center. Then I adjust the intake and exhaust for number one. However, I differ from here by following the sequence of the firing order. 153624 adjusting them as I go. You can't get away from using the feeler gauge and be careful of the knuckles when you untighten the bolts. A little bit of slippage and whack - the head edges are like razor blades. also check them after you tighten them as they have a habit of moving when you lock them down.

I had a clunk in the back of mine and it turned out to be the bushing which holds the transvers link on nearest to the diff. give it a wiggle from side to side to see if you have any movement in these. PS I am running KYB as well allround. Biker

I have the same dilemma in finding the right setup but some people who I trust in their judgement have told me to try out 25mm front and about 14mm rear. They also reckon the rear bar is optional. you may love it or hate it. might be an idea when you buy to see if you can swap it over if it does not work out. biker

Raman Here is a link on the site that explains it and does lead to some retification ideas. I know it is common on the Zed's (mine does not have the problem though:D ) as you can see a lot of people using relfective tubing to prevent the heat issue. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1990&highlight=vapour biker