anthony_c

and speaking from experience, i would not use a cover that has metal grommets. ever. even when the car is just sitting in the driveway.

well thats interesting. new reproduction of a 40 year old oem rim, shipping from Bahrain???

Wheel Set - Alloy Wheel, 240Z 260Z 280Z, 73-78 - refinished: Z Car Cellar Price: $1,500.00 Alloy Wheel Set for the 1973-78 Datsun 240Z, 260Z and 280Z. Set includes 4 refinished wheels with used center caps (new center caps are not available). Lug nuts are not included. Beautiful wheels for your early Z!

1978 Datsun 280z

i would opt for these: Corbeau: Sport Seat plus a set of their brackets: 240 Z 69-74 C22011 C22011 260Z 74-75 D212T D212T 260Z 76-78 D214T D214T but then i would have to find somewhere to store the original seats. not cheap, but they're new, wouldn't look too out of place, and should be drop-in replacements.

thanks mike. the paint job looks very nice. 303 is an unusual color. i was planning to take my car back to original to save some money repainting the engine bay and jambs, but i'm having trouble coming to terms with that particular shade of green. did they use a base coat/clear coat, or single stage paint?

anyone have a good photo of a z with the paint code "303 green metallic"?

if anyone picks this up with the intention of parting out i'd like to hear from you. the current owner is planning to either sell it whole or put it back together.

240z wheels 4x4.5**new tires**American racing rims ** 240z wheels 4x4.5**new tires**American racing rims ** - $350 (Fredericksburg, va)

if we assume that the board its sitting on is 1" thick, then the model is about 3-3.5 inches long. that amounts to $2k for 3 inches of tin?

found this also: Datsun Z and 510 parts

they are gorgeous cars, i wouldn''t blame you. but in the spirit of full disclosure, i also own one of these:

i have 16x7's with 205/55/16's on my 260. with an effective 0 offset they are pretty well centered between the fender and frame, and there isn't much clearance to spare on either side. assuming the 240 is setup the same way i would say look for a zero or single digit positive offset and a thin spacer. unless you have the wheel at full lock this should keep you clear of the frame and inside of the fender (most of the time). but if i had it do over again i would drop back to 6.5".

not sure if or how this would affect you, but four years ago i ran into problems trying to buy a z in georgia. for vehicles older than a certain age, georgia did not require a title to register a vehicle, nor did they issue a new printed title when the vehicle was sold. according to their laws the only title is the original piece of paper that came with the vehicle when it first sold. lose it and you're s.o.l. without a valid title my home state would not allow me to register the vehicle (without additional research and verification). result, the seller was stuck with the car until he could find a local buyer. so the moral to the story might be to hang onto your current printed title.

so for the sake of moving along and not having to drop the transmission a third time, i'll take the "belt and suspenders" approach. replace the fork and slave with an adjustable 240 version (just in case) re-bleed the slave check the master linkage, adjust the slave again if needed. surely something will come of doing all three.

the mc was not leaking so i did not replace it. it was working prior to replacing the clutch and slave. it seems the only way to test re-bleeding the lines or replacing the master is to put it all back together (and hope it doesnt have to come out again). my current thought is that the slave pushrod is too short, allowing the slave piston to advance part way through cylinder before i even step on the pedal. it is effecively self-adjusting like it is supposed to, but for the wrong reason. @diseazed: the car and the clutch parts are still sitting on chuck's frame alignment rig, and i dont think i can leave it there too much longer. i need to present him a definate fix, or at least a permanent work-around.

my suspicion is that everything is working as designed, but the current iteration of slave cylinders available for the 280z is the wrong design. (wrong pushrod, wrong bore, or maybe even offset mounting points). but short of buying one from every vendor and manufacturer i'm unable to find one that will work, so i'm going with your original suggestion. swap out the fork and slave for the adjustable 240 version and move on to the next problem.

yep

i confirmed that the pedal height is set at 8 3/4 according to the fsm the master cyl connecting rod is almost maxed out (just a few threads left) the pedal is contacting the bumper when not depressed. the line was completely drained, cleaned, refilled, then bled several times. then bled a few more. i did not check the pedal free-play adjustment though. giving serious consideration to buying a bench grinder and some roundbar and just making a longer pushrod.

@diseazed: there is no gap between the slave pushrod and the dimple, they are in contact. however the slave cylinder and pushrod cannot move the fork far enough. i'm only getting about 1/2 of travel before the slave "runs out". it just doesnt have a long enough reach. @eurodat: i actually can push the fork forward and compress the slave. the car is disassembled and somewhere else at the moment, but i vaguely recalling that distance being a half inch or better. i called courtesy nissan again today and read the part number back to them. they confirmed that this is the correct slave cylinder.

well, before we all start blaming a nation of several billion people for my clutch problems...this slave cylinder was purchased from Courtesy Nissan. I also bought one from Arizona Z and it was identical.

recently installed a new clutch and slave cylinder into a 5 speed and i'm having trouble getting the clutch to fully disengage. the problem visibly manifests itself at the slave cylinder. when the pedal is fully depressed i'm only getting 1/2"+ of travel at the fork. pushrod at the master cylinder is fully extended. the transmission has been pulled again and we've verified that all of the parts are for a 5 speed coupe. collar and pressure plate match. current theory is that the pushrod on the new slave cylinder is just too short. the mechanic has suggested using an adjustable slave and fork from a 240. has anyone tried mating a 240 fork to a 280 collar, bearing, and clutch?

for the record, pulling all of the plugs added 20+ to the compression readings across all cylinders. now to sort out the results of the leak-down test.

i'm in the garage now so hoping someone knows this off the top of their head: should a leakdown test be performed with all plugs out, or only the the cylinder being tested? we're getting very different readings depending on which way we do the test. thanks, tony

that would be appreciated. summers here in richmond commonly run 95 degrees with 90% humidity so anything helps. it was working until recently, so i am familiar with how anemic it is. to paraphrase jeremy clarkson, it blows with all the force of an asthmatic mouse.