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Could be, Chuck. It's an L24 block, a 240z bell housing, and complete 240z clutch kit, so I'd hope it's all "correct" but clearly something isn't.

Following up on two threads from the past few months: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46932.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46662.html Quick Recap: Transmission grinds when I start to put it in gear. I've replaced: - Replaced Clutch Master Cylinder - Replaced Clutch Slave Cylinder - Replaced Entire Clutch Kit - Bled System Ensured proper travel at the Slave Cylinder. Ensured the Master Clinder is fully extended. If I put it in gear and start it (with a push) I can go around the block in gear, just can't shift (obviously). So I'm totally out of ideas. I can't imagine why else the clutch wouldn't engage. The only saving grace is that I'm swapping the motor / transmission in the next month or two, it's just frustrating to not have gotten this thing moving after so long. Rebuilt those #%*& DGV carbs for no reason...

I'm certainly looking forward to it!

This sounds familiar. I haven't had a chance to revisit mine yet, but after replacing the master cylinder (along with everything else), I think my clutch MC just isn't extended far enough to the pedal. Good luck

I have the opposite problem. Want to send me that N42?

Never hurts to ask. I wonder if that East Coast Z Car Center has anything that isn't junk at this point... at least they're local-ish.

He mentioned the possibility of using an N47, just need to check and make sure my headers will clear. Sounds like they should, but I'd hate to build out the motor and find that they don't. Thanks, Guy, good to know he might have some inventory.

Guy - Thanks again, Doc seems to be my best bet so far. Waiting for him to check his supply and give a call back. Good to know that push come shove, I can potentially use the N47.

Guy - I can honnestly say I've never heard of him. Thanks for the tip! That's what I was hoping for! Also I saw Brandon's BMW on BaT today... smart place to sell a car. Wishing him the best of luck.

You're absolutely right, I should have clarified. Sorry about that: The car already has headers and a nice exhaust system. The header has square ports though, so my options are E31/E88/N42 (or those Turbo Heads, which are out). The larger intake valve was the drive towards N42. N47 I believe has the round ports, which would mean either replacing my header or sub-optimally trying to fit the gasket to make round and square work together. Shipping alone from OR on a head might break the bank! You west coast folks have all the parts. I'll shoot you a PM. Thanks for the tips!

While not 100% appropriate, the "Help Me!" section is definitely where this belongs...</SPAN> I've posted on the Wanted Section, run Craigslist Ads for months, and exhausted my Z-Network here in Northern VA... I can't find an N42 head! Datsun Spirit is building me a motor and I need to supply a core for the build (it's replacing my L24 so that's no good), but hot damn this thing is proving hard to find. I understand some have brass seats and that's not desirable, so I guess I'm looking for the white whale of heads!</SPAN> I've got about three weeks left until he starts my motor, at which point if I have no head, I'm either going to have to replace my headers or sacrifice smaller intake valves. Anyone know the location of a rebuildable N42 head??!</SPAN> Thanks for the help!</SPAN>

Good enough for BRE = Good enough for ME.

Chris was nice enough to send me a copy of this catalog earlier in the year; never thought to look here. Figured they'd be generic. Sure enough, looks like that's the header. Wish there were product reviews available from the early '70s; I imagine a good amount of engineering has happened in the past 40 years, but does anyone know if these things breath well enough?

That'd be neat. I'll check the catalog tonight. Thanks

I realize it's difficult to see without taking them off the car, but does anyone reconize this header? Thanks much,

Thanks for the confirmation; good to know the second P/N isn't NLA. Thanks Jim!

Perhaps this is it, at a 325% markup: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-Clutch-Fork-Pivot-Ball-NOS-/370510405980?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item564424215c&vxp=mtr Looks like I could find that stuff at the hardware store. Anyone have a junk transmission they might be willing to pull it off of?? Cheers! Bill

With Fred & Todd's help, we've narrowed the issue with my transmission down to part #7 on the attached diagram, known as the 'Pin-Ball lever.' Part Numbers listed are 30537-E3200 or 30537-21010. I have some folks telling me it's still available, but neither of my local Nissan dealerships can order it. Hesitant to use nismoparts.com or something like that as getting it by the 1st of Sept. is important. Any ideas?

Yeah, second on the wheels. Not an easy set to find - Where'd you stumble upon those?

Popped up on CL yesterday; probably an hour after I had passed by Roanoke on my way back from TX. Bad timing. Link: http://roanoke.craigslist.org/cto/3215435173.html Description: "I have a low vin number Datsun 240z for sale. Production is 11 of 1969. The car is in good shape, but needs a little bit of body work. I have the original motor and 4 speed trans. Asking $2000 obo. Call or text for more information 540-981-3910. "

I'd be very interested to hear what this sounds like. I've never been able to determine what header/exhaust/muffler combination is on my '70, but I love the sound:

Pretty sure I'm going to have way more than $4,700 in both my cars and they won't look that good still. Congratulations and welcome. Where are you located?

I did manage to get the two cars next to each other for the first time on Sat. though.

Well, I see two problems emerging: 1) I don't know all the right parts still I've poured over "How a clutch works" pictures today, and can't find the collar. Is the clutch collar at the end of the fork, and what physically touches the throw-out bearing? 2) I may have over estimated parts interchangability I changed nothing with regards to the transmission. It definitely is a 5-Speed. I knew this going into the job. So whatever throwout bearing what in there before, is still in there now. I had purchased a bearing for a '69 Datsun 2000 5-Speed (having understood it was a Roadster trans), but it didn't match the part that was installed so I didn't change it out. My pressure plate (& cover) are from a '77 280z. The clutch disc is the 240z disc that was installed (the replacement I ordered was the wrong size). The motor is an L24, albiet not the original to the car. The stamp on the block is numbered somewhere in the 3,000's. Slave cylinder is a Beck Arnley, P/n: 10769393 -------- Carl, I apologize for the poorly written statement, but you're correct: After reinstalling the same transmission, the pressure was gone. The only part that had been replaced then was the pressure plate & cover. Hadn't ever interrupted the hydrualics.

Zed - Thanks! The clutch definitely isn't siezed, I saw to that when I replaced it on Sat. I'll try using the old slave cylinder to see if that makes a difference (how easy of a fix would that be...) and if it does. I am using the new slave cylinder with the old slave clyinder rod... perhaps that combination was bad. Forgive my lazy reference: You're correct, I can't get the clutch to disengage. Certainly helps to use the right terms. I had pressure in the clutch line prior to removing the trans on Sat. After replacing it, that pressure was gone. Can't understand that one.