rcb280z

Thanks SteveJ. I guess that means I go back to the drawing board.

Ok, here is an update I guess. I got a battery from my neighbor and tested the water temp sensor. I hope you can follow this Blue. As i have said before I do not understand my way around an ohm meter like I wish I did. I set the meter to 20k because I didn't get a reading on 200 or 2000 and with both leads, one lead on one pin and the other lead on the other pin my reading was 2.96 with garage temp at 61 degrees. Did I perform this test correctly?

Blue, thanks for all the info! I agree regarding cold start circuit. Unfortunately I just discovered a dead ohm meter. Have to get 9 volt battery after work and proceed with tests tomorrow morning. Post results then.

Ok, thanks Blue. Will do those tests in the am before work and post results.

That's exactly it five&dime. There are some amazingly high shipping charges from some e-bay sellers. If you don't educate yourself on shipping charges or parts prices for that matter then you will probably pay too much.

UPDATE......OK she is running pretty good now. Found out there was a jumper wire to the fuel pump to bypass the EFI relay. Another story for another time. Everything seems to be working correctly except for cold start up. And I mean over night cold start up. After sitting over night It cranks over and starts good but after a minute of idling it starts running rough, coughing and chocking. If I rev it up a little it gets worst as if it is starving for fuel. So maybe a lean condition? She doesn't smell rich during this time so I'm thinking lean. The AAR doesn't seem to be working right away either? If I baby the throttle for a couple of minutes the AAR starts working. It seems like the AAR doesn't get any signal until well after start up. The AAR, Thermotime, WTS, and connectors are all new The confusing part of this is if I start it a few hours later (after sitting for awhile) it starts better and immediately goes to a higher idle like it should after sitting over night. Which means the AAR is working but why does it not work right after sitting over 10 or so hours. I replaced the AAR 2 years ago with a new one from MSA. The 2 things I'm going to check next is vacuum leaks when cold (not there when the engine is warm) and charging system during engine warm up. Maybe battery voltage is dropping to low after sitting over night and spark is weaker? Not noticeable when cranking though. Oh, and go back through the FSM "unstable idle" during warm up test procedures. I'm sure I forgot something here but I figured I would post this to see if you all think I'm heading in the right direction. Thanks

I bought 2 items from him recently and was able to negotiate on the price. He lowered the price considerably. It was either that or I was going to find another source. Just know your product and prices before buying anything on e-bay.

Kurk, the kit looks awesome! I just recieved mine in the mail today. Took less than a week to get. Can't wait to install them. Will post results when done. Thanks. Bob

I can't tell you what this wheel came off of but I can tell you it didn't come off of a 280. Hope he accepts returns.

Nice job! Keep the pics coming.

Chris, sorry it's taking so long to answer your question. Been troubleshooting a Z problem of my own. When Big Brand tire center did my "road forcing" balance the tech said they balance the tire to the rim and high speed spin it. The equipment used today at most of the tire centers aren't calibrated as often as they should be according to this tech. And just a 1/2 oz out will give the Z a front end shimmy if that is where it is. If it's in the rear you'll feel it in the seat. It cost me 40 bucks for the front. And I was about to tear my front end apart. If you haven't done it yet and are not confident in who you use to balance your wheels, it is worth a shot. One of my friends just had to have his front rims and tires road forced on his altima because one of his wheels are out of round and he is happy with the outcome. Bob

Yep. I don't know why because everything is working properly now without the hacked in jumper wire. The only reason I realized I had the issue was because of another post here on this site regarding fuel pump operation in the "on" position of the ignition switch. I'm just glad it's fixed. On to fixing my leaky injectors, then leaky front trans seal, then weak struts, then...........and so on, and so on. I'm glad I love the Z car.

Okay Arne. Sorry about that.

SteveJ, pintle caps are the plastic caps you see at the tip of an injector. Unless I've been wrong for the past 25 years.

Blue, where did you find new pintle caps?

Wow Blue, lots of excellent info here! I will study it. Thanks

Chris, I too had the dreaded steering wheel shake for awhile. The thing that worked for me was having steel sleeves installed in the lugnut holes and then "road forcing" the wheels and tires. Took 98% of the shake away. I chalk up the other 2% to the CA roads! The steel sleeves were because I have the early center force wheels and they later discovered this to be a problem with them. It's all good now. Good luck

I thought the injectors are supplied with 3 volts from the dropping resistors to open them. I would have thought 9 volts was too much power. Hmmm, that makes it easier for me to rig something. Great idea's here. I love this forum! Blue, how did you back flow? Did you just spray the "cleaner used" into the oposite end of the injector, through the nozzle out the hose?

Thanks Tomohawk and Blue for the help and idea's. I'm going to remove my fuel rail because I will be replacing my FPR and will probably rig something to clean injectors. I may remove the rail and pressurize it. I want to actually observe the leaky one's in action. Clean them and pressurize them again to make sure they don't leak. I should mention I'm replacing the FPR because it is about twenty years old and I will have the rail off anyway. Plus I already have a new one I bought 2 years ago. Will post results after I complete this. Hopefully in a week or two.

I second what Dave said. Dave Irwin did an outstanding job on my combo switches. Plus I bought the headlight and parking light upgrade harness's from Dave. I couldn't be happier.

Yes I have used and do so periodically the Lucas brand. But I do recall using Techron for awhile and maybe I shood give that another try. I also think part of my problem is I hardly drive it. Not sure if that matters or not. Come to think of it I just changed out the fuel filter about a 1 1/2months ago. Maybe some crud got by it somehow. Thanks for the info

Thanks to all that helped me with this. Zed Head you hit it on the head, no pun intended, when you mentioned the harness along the passenger seat. I had forgotten about that harness. I pulled the passenger seat out and pulled up the carpet and started tracing the harness. I wasn't expecting to find a thing. Well, I did! Someone, I sure don't recall doing this, ran a jumper wire from the fuel pump bullet connector behind the passenger seat up to the back side of the fusebox! I fixed that problem, pulled the starter lead and turned the key to "on" position and no fuel pump sound (like I was getting before). Then on to "start" position and the pump came on. YES, it's fixed! Now I still have to trouble shoot why I'm still getting 7.39 ohms resistance at 39 & 36 of the AFM connector. Any ideas there?

Have 2 injectors leaking on my 77 280. Took a few days of troubleshooting to figure out why my Z seemed like it was loading up on a cold start up. Pulled the plugs yesterday after Z sat over night and found 2 of them wet with fuel. So, I can't decide if I want to just replace them or have a fuel injector service done on the car or pull them and send them in to be rebuilt. Anyone have negative results? One's that you regret? Thanks.

pure luck! and awesome score!

Zed Head. That is correct! I remember this all to well when I replaced my carpets about 12 yrs ago. I will be checking that next and update this post on my find. I'm going to look through my FSM again to find this info as well. Thanks.