rcb280z

Damn Philip, I just read (again) in your post above where you asked me if I hit the brake when I started the car. The answer is no. I have been starting it from outside the car lately. I don't know why I didn't understand your statement "don't hit the brake". Must have been the lack of coffee this morning. Bob

Ok I will think about this as well. I know that if I disconnect BCDD the idle raises about 100 rpms. I'm pretty sure that it shouldn't raise the idle any right? So maybe there is something there. It didn't seem to make a difference when it was cold "cold start" though. Philip can you look at your throttle linkage and see if the linkage actually rests on the set screw....mine does and the FSM shows it resting on the dash pot shaft. FSM shows a 1.9 mm gap between the throttle linkage stop and the dash pot shaft. Sorry, not sure what you mean by "don't hit brake". Bob

Philip, In post #53 I mention the dash pot really doesn't seem to do much. After looking at ET-9 of the 77 FSM it explains that the dash pot is adjustable. But to me it seems that if I was to adjust the dash pot it would allow more air into the intake. On cold start with the throttle closed what difference does this make? I'm confused now. Oh, I took the dash pot off to see if there were any changes....none. You would think this would be something easy to find. Bob.

That was the other thing I did during this mornings test that I forgot to mention. I bliped the throttle a couple times to see if that would do it but it didn't. Had to manually raise it for the time mentioned above. Remember back in the days of carbs and you had to throttle it up a little just long enough to get it past it's "coldness" so to speak so it would idle on it's own? That is what this is like...maybe not as bad.

I actually observed the operation of the dash pot and it really doesn't seem to do anything. The "pin" that meets the throttle body linkage just slides up and down. It doesn't apply any force to the linkage. Im at a loss also. I have cleaned the linkage just in case it was sticking and operated the throttle manually with engine off looking for any binding and found nothing out of the ordinary.

OK, here is what I did this morning. Checked plugs and none were wet with fuel. Disconnected linkage at throttle body....didn't change anything. I pulled TVS connector and it only changed idle slightly (almost not noticeable)...never died. So I suppose it is the next thing to check. I will check this before removing throttle body.

I will check throttle body again. I am also going to pull the spark plugs after sitting over night to see if they are wet from fuel. Maybe an injector('s) are leaking. That would give an unstable idle until the plugs cleared up. Will post results later. I'm glad I am not the only one that is baffled by this mystery. I can also try disconnecting the linkage to the throttle body to see if that changes anything....showing possible linkage binding.

I also pulled the AFM to throttle body boot to look inside the throttle body. It is still clean and is adjusted correctly as per FSM. Butterfly is closed completely with engine off.

Start cold....about 950-1000 rpms with unstable idle. After I raise the throttle (I shouldn't have to) for about 15-20 seconds and let go, I get a stable idle around 1300 rpms until the engine starts to warm up and then the throttle slowly drops to about 850. Takes about 5 minutes.

What the heck is "moulding"? I ment MOLDING.

OMG! H:laugh::laugh:ters Dreamgirls......

Can anyone post pics of weather stripping on the S30 doors? The only piece's I have left on my doors are the very bottom, underneath, and the very top of the window channel that meets the body. I am missing the ones that wrap around the window channel (front and back) where the channel meets the door. And the one that sits just inside close to the dash and top door hinge. The one that is held in place with 3 rivets. Those pics would be appreciated. Thanks.

UPDATE Ran the AAR test and here is the result. Pulled hoses and the AAR was open ( about 1/4). Put hoses back on and started the car. Pinched the supply hose and it stalled right away. Restarted and allowed it to warm up (10 min). Pinched same hose and nothing happened. Steady idle. Pulled hose's and AAR was closed. I'm ready for the next test.

I refuse to watch anything with 'Pimp My' in the title. Bonzi Lon Yeah, that's a weird show anyway. Bonzi Lon, those are great shows. I looked at the Velocity channel only because of all the repeat shows on speed.

Do you get the new Velocity channel? I catch shows like...chasing classic cars, Mecum Auto Auction, Barrett Jackson auto Auction etc. Blue, I'll be running those test's on the AAR Saturday.

Oh I understand completely. I would have made them myself if I wasn't so afraid of messing with electrical. I'm "chicken" when it comes to that. I love challenges. Just too afraid to try it right now. Keep us posted on the results.

David made parking light upgrade and headlight upgrade harness's for my 77 280 and they work perfect.

No it's a five speed. I wont be running the tests tonight. I thought about it and want to run these tests when I can take my time and not be rushed. That may not happen until this weekend unless something happens before then. I will keep you posted. Thanks Blue.

I have the urethane all around (14 years ago) and replaced TC bushings with MSA urethane front and back 3 years ago with no problems. Like Zed Head said, put Z on the ground to install washer and nut. I was able to reach down from up top in the engine bay and install mine. It does help to be 6'2" sometimes.

So if the AAR is opening to much on an engine that is possibly on the lean side to begin with and it is not that cold outside for the cold start to work, but the AAR is open, then it could be considered a vacuum leak correct? And would cause an engine to idle poorly until it started to warm up like my Z. It is supposed to cool down tonight so I think I will push the Z out of the garage and let it sit outside for a few hours and then perform those tests. Will keep you posted.

I can't wait to check this one. I hope in a way it is not bad because it's fairly new... 2 years old. But then again if it is bad this could fix the problem. What were the symptoms on your friends faulty AAR?

Blue, I will have to wait for it to cool down around here again. It has warmed up here so I know the cold start probably won't work anyway. Maybe I will be able to run the test tonight. Will keep you posted.

OK Blue, I will run those and post tomorrow afternoon as soon as I get back home. Thank you.

Zed Head, Sorry I didn't make myself clear. When the AAR is working, as the engine is warming, the rpm's drop slowly down to set idle speed of 850. i have to initiate the higher idle for some reason by manually raising it. If I don't the engine sounds and looks like it is bogging down. It doesn't just jump to higher idle right away after starting it. I have to help it get there. The thing that confuses me more is after it sits a couple hours while I have been trouble shooting it and I start it up it goes to the higher idle right away. If it did this every morning after sitting over night everything would be good. Should I remove the vacuum line you are speaking of before I do a cold start? I think that is what I am reading in your post. Thanks.

OK, the pic with the yellow plug wires is how mine is set up. I will also double check TPS. When I checked last it was making contact at idle position. Blue, I'm going to give you another update that I just thought about while I was working on my brothers car. On start up (over night) she fires almost right away (cold start works). Idles at about 850 like the AAR is not working. But, if I raise the throttle to about 1500 for about 30 seconds and let it go it actually only drops to about 1300 and thats when the AAR is working. As if the AAR requires that help to get it working. But if I don't raise the throttle it never gets to that 1300 rpm and idles rough like not enough or too much fuel. not sure if this helped or made it more complicated.