Namerow

This topic came up here a few years ago. At the time, CZCC member, 'Fastwoman' offered what I thought was a really interesting solution... " I think a great way to create a defeat mechanism would be to wire a number of critical circuits (e.g. starter wire, fuel pump, ignition, EFI if you have it) via black wires (so there are no useful color codes) to a molex connector under the dash or perhaps in the ashtray compartment. You would then have a mating connector you would plug in to correctly connect those various critical wires. Carry it with you when you leave the car. You could also add a couple of ground wires in the car's connector -- and perhaps the horn wire for grins, so any attempt to hot-wire the connector would likely result in blown fuses. "

Thanks for the vendor and pricing research and the excellent documentation. I'm dealing with the same question, so your efforts here have provided a great reference piece. Don't forget the option of having your harmonic balancer rebuilt. Dale Manufacturing (Salem, Oregon -- same town as as ZTherapy) offer a rebuild service at $115 (plus 2-way shipping) based on you supplying your core for them to refurbish. There's also Damper Doctor in Redmond, CA (not sure about their pricing, but they'll send you a quote if you ask).

Very pretty. Compared to the many photos I've seen in various L engine rebuild threads, the ones shown here seem to capture 'Nissan Engine Blue' the best. It's more of an 'industrial' blue than an 'automotive' blue. Also: Those may be the first photos I've ever seen (anywhere) that document the installation of the crankcase vent screen inside the block casting.

I did the same with the seats from my 5/70. The original foam was not bad, but I needed to fill out the new seat covers. I used various combinations of 1/2" and 1/4" foam, plus 1" batting (fabric stores have this -- it works well for filling in 'holes'). Where appropriate, make your cuts in the foam at an angle rather than as a straight (90-degrees to surface) cut. If you cut it straight, the edge of the foam will show through the seat cover as a ridge. A BIG pair of scissors helps. Also, an ultra-sharp kitchen knife. One other caution: By adding foam in this way, you will be 'over-stuffing' the seat. Done right, this adds a little extra 'bucket' to the bucket seat. However, it can lead to puckering if you pull the buried tensioning flaps too tight.

A search of the Toronto Star newspaper's archives will be needed to verify this but, having lived in/around these parts all my life, I find it very hard to believe that there was any kind of major auto show happening in Toronto in the spring or early summer. There have traditionally been only two times of the year for auto shows in Toronto: the big show, held in mid-winter (say, Jan-Feb), and the secondary show, held at the end of the summer (Canadian National Exhibition - two weeks leading up to Labour Day). The 510 purportedly being air-shipped from Vancouver to Toronto in May 1970 could just as easily have been on its way to a dealer or media launch event (as opposed to an auto show, c/w roof-collapsing show models).

Not duct tape. That is 'Racing Tape', aka '200mph Tape'.

Psychedelic body painting of auto show models (sorry, 'hostesses'). That's something you don't see anymore!

I suggest you look at the trim panels sold by Mike at Banzai Motorsports. They're very close to the originals in appearance (not the case for the panels offered by many of the other vendors) and they include the embossed chrome trim strip. Price is very competitive at $275 for a pair and Mike is a good guy to deal with... http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catSoftTrim.php (see Item #ST-12)

Nice post. Not much space allocated (or required) for three Japanese brands that would shortly become huge sellers. Notice that the display area signage says 'Datsun' rather than 'Nissan'. I wonder whether the overhead sign placed on the ceiling said the same thing? The cars sits quite high on its wheels, doesn't it?

In your most recent photos, one (or perhaps both) of your set of frame repair sections has stitch welds running full length along the inside of the long folds. Why? Did you fit a doubler piece inside for extra strength? BTW, I admire your efforts in constructing these repair pieces from scratch and without the benefit of having a sheet-metal brake in your shop. That's a pretty nice result achieved from forming your bends over the jaws of a mechanic's vise!

That's what he recommended (complete with an explanation), so no need to ask him again. Now it's your decision whether you want to follow that recommendation or not.

You need to get out of the workshop for a while. Your friendly local Princess Auto outlet (heated) has a killer sale on right now for most of its steel stock -- tube, bar, channel, and sheet, all at about 40% off list. Lots of other stuff at attractive pricing -- including the TIG welder and plasma cutter that I know your shop needs to be complete .

Looks like the G-knot workshop is a little frosty these days! Have any elves shown up to help out?

Just research the kits that the big Z parts suppliers are already offering. Obviously, you'll need to offer some kind of compelling advantage (price comes to mind), as these suppliers are already well known and (for the most part) well trusted by the Z owners community. You might score yourself a niche if you're able to offer the Phillips-type hex-head bolts as a kit that lines up with the typical restorer's whole-vehicle needs. Maybe one of our members is OCD enough to tally that up and give you the sizes and numbers required (they're not obvious from the parts fiche -- you need to know the car from first-hand experience... or a lot of really good, detail-level photos of a bone-stock Z). Note that most of the Z's requirement for this type of special bolt was not of the captive-washer variety. In addition, they were only used in low-load applications, so bolt grade isn't going to be a big deal. It's all about the appearance of the bolt head.

The cross-reference table (Toyota PN vs. fastener spec) in your 'Research' page is a nice feature. If you move into Nissan country with your offerings, I'm sure that owners would enjoy a similar table for our cars. I'm curious about how/why you're able to offer cad plating (vs. yellow zinc plating). I thought that real cad plating had been banned just about everywhere because of environmental risks to groundwater. There's one fastener style that you (and other suppliers) are not offering. That is the hex-head bolt style that features a cross-type (aka Phillips) screwdriver indent in the head. This was a visually special feature of many of the Z's fasteners and something that some of us would like to preserve during our restorations. If you can find a source for these (typically M6 and M8, IIRC), you may enjoy some buyer traffic that would otherwise pass you by.

I don't think so. Topography and shrubbery looks wrong. The collection in your photo must belong to the other nephew of Patcon's hoarder. The guy north of SLC had a yard that looked like your traditional wrecker's lot, with a front yard for parking, a building or two, and a larger, fenced-off rear year I visited briefly on my way through the area. George Koslowski (past prez of Ontario Z Owners Association) paid the guy a more extensive visit while traveling through the area and did a write-up in the club newsletter, c/w several b&w pix. Years ago, there was also a guy in the southern fringes of San Diego who ran an all-Z recycling yard. That was a pretty cool set-up. Well organized, knowledgeable and helpful owner. Probably long gone by now.

Thanks, Careless. Now I remember reading the write-up you did on this in your own thread (maybe that's where I got the idea). So are you saying leave out media blasting altogether and use vapor blast + shot burnishing instead? Or are you saying to change the order of steps so that it's: vapor blast, then media blast, then shot burnishing? Also: Those are great tips for the valve cover. Now let's talk about the carbs... I can easily see similar materials and strategies being use to seal off the bells and the float chambers. Did you do this? I'm not so sure about the carb bodies. Did you use blank-off plates sealed with RTV across the air inlet, air outlet, and top (bell) opening?

I got the idea from our friends at Z-Therapy, who say: "After the bodies are machined, the carbs get polished. All ZTherapy carbs are machine polished with a unique high pressure (22 G's of force) machine polish technique. This is not a wheel polish. These carbs shine better than when they came out of the molds. By polishing in this way, we close the pores of the metal. They shed dirt better, and look great!" Maybe they really are using a shot-peening process?

In the 1990's there used to be a guy, just north of Salt Lake City IIRC, with a big yard full of Z's. Fifty or more. Same story. He would let the odd person in to have a look, but he believed that he was sitting on a gold mine and refused to consider realistic offers. Maybe this is his nephew!

Oh well... Stay tuned for next brilliant idea.

There's been a bit of chatter over the last couple of days about positive results achieved with a needle scaler tool for the removal of tar-pad sound dampener from floor panels, and even undercoating from the car's underside surfaces. That's great information and looks the a a heck of ot more convenient than dry ice, CO2 blasting, scrapers, blow torches and heat guns! However, I'm interested in hearing about the use of this tool for cleaning and conditioning aluminum castings. I'm thinking specifically of the Z's valve cover and SU carb bells. In both cases, the parts don't lend themselves to blast cabinet treatment (because of the size of the part size in one case, and because of the risk of media-particle part contamination in the other). In addition, the end result from blasting these parts isn't necessarily a correct look -- to my eye, anyway (it's a little too bright and porous-looking). I think I recall someone saying that a needle scaler delivers a more OE look for these types of castings (a smooth, 'hardened' surface look, kind of like shot-peening at a miniature scale). Has anyone tried this? Any before/after (or even just 'after') pix to share?

'Red Racer' IPA recommended, if you can get it in your area. Comes from Surrey, BC.

Thanks, Jim. Chris, I believe that the path forward is clear. Grab one for me and I'll pay you when I pick up my part of our MSA order (assuming that they ever get around to shipping it, of course ).

The Ontario distributor, JR Power Products, is apparently this guy: Jack Langen (905) 880-9976 15650 The Gore Rd Palgrave ON L0N1P0 Chris, I believe that address is within shooting distance of your place. Apparently Langen is an old-school hot rodder and used to sell the stuff at shows and meets. Why not check him out to see whether he has any Gibbs on hand? If he does, grab a can for me, too.

Sign me up for a can, too. You can never have enough 'wonder chemicals' on the shelf.