Namerow

"The early extreme-pressure (EP) additives were based on lead salts of fatty acids ("lead soaps"), "active sulfur" compounds (e.g. thiols and elementary sulfur), and chlorinated compounds. During the 1950s the use of lead soaps was eliminated and replaced by zinc and phosphorus compounds such as zinc dithiophosphate." Source: Monitoring Active Sulfur in EP Gear Oils, and Other Options for Monitoring EP Additive Depletion - Arnold Sugarman - online article in MacineryLubrication.com For more details, click on this link: http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/496/active-sulfur-ep-gear-oil So: Based on Sugarman's article, it's not entirely clear on whether an automobile halfshaft manufactured in Japan in the early 1970's would have been assembled with an EP grease using lead-based EP grease. Unless there are some real detectives out there, we may never know for sure.

A rebuild kit (pistons, seals, etc) for the early brake m/c seems to be NLA. Where did you find yours? Or did you just re-use your original internals?

Bring a trailer? (Blue is probably hitching his up right now in NS. ) Show the picture of JF's front yard to your significant other and watch her form the words, 'Forget about it, bub.'

Check this out... https://www.kijiji.ca/v-moteurs/ouest-de-lile-qc/pieces-datsun-240z-260z-280z-nissan-280zx/1338314838?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true I count seven or eight Z's in the yard. Not sure what kind of condition they're in.

I have a benchtop-size cabinet and have the same opinion. Bigger is better. The makers of my cabinet were clearly focused on their bottom line, because there is not even a centimeter of excess air hose length provided between the siphon tube and the gun. As for there being any visible lighting inside the cabinet, I gave up on that hope long ago. I do all my blasting now by feel. It's impossible to see through the cabinet's hatch window unless I replace the plastic-sheet overlay for every job (no thanks). The puny little fluorescent light provided by the manufacturer doesn't do much to help. All that aside, the blast cabinet is w-a-y more effective than sandpaper or wire wheels when it comes to de-rusting steel parts and getting them ready for primer and paint. Does a nice job on aluminum castings, too, provided you're careful to mask off any machined surfaces.

Good write-up. It'll be interesting to see whether the Polyvance filler lives up to expectations. I did this job myself about three years ago. I using SEM's 'Bumper-Bite' flex filler, because it was recommended by others. I don't think Polyvance was even around at that time. I think that the weakest link in the dash-crack repair chain is the limited bonding area offered by the exposed edges of the hard-vinyl top layer. If you chamfer those edges at a 45 to 60-degree angle, you increase the width of the bonding surface by about 50%... but it's still going to be only 1/8" - 3/16" wide, at best. Better, but still not much. As with all adhesive joints, it's important to make the most of what you have in the way of bonding area by making sure that everything is ultra-clean beforehand and paying attention to the adhesive manufacturer's recommendations -- if any -- about preferred surface condition (roughed-up vs. smooth).

Thoughtful (as in, well thought out) summary. Thanks for taking the time. I keep reading innuendos on Bring-a-Trailer to the effect that certain collectors are paying $50K and up for early 'Condition 1' Z's, but it seems like these are restricted to low-mile, 'mint-in-box', original-paint cars. Your results suggest that the best that most (sane) hobbyists can achieve is apparently going to be 'Condition 2', and the resulting vehicles don't seem to be bringing much more than $30K, making it a barely break-even proposition. Not that starting with a similar-vintage Alfa GTV would probably be much different -- other than adding 50% to all the numbers!

Learned something new. Thanks.

I think they're just generic, auto body shop shims. Should be available for pennies at a nearby shop in your town. Does anyone have evidence that Nissan used body shims in the assembly of Z's?

So the bolts you removed from the head are M8 x 1.25 metric, but the threads in the head seem to be 5/16" x 20? Maybe a PO (or mechanic) got there before you with the same goal of cleaning up the threads, but bungled the job by using a 5/16 x 20 tap. The metric bolts might still 'fit' afterwards. Still, I think it's more likely that your metric tap-and-die collection may have a 'visitor' from the SAE family that lives in the drawer next door

Another impossible-to-find reproduction candidate for the talents of Steve at nix240Z.

5/16" = 7.938mm. Difference is 0.78% 20 TPI = 1.27mm pitch. Difference is 1.6% Any chance a PO decided to force 5/16" bolts into the head, leaving you with a mongrel result?

Thanks. I hadn't checked WoodWorkerB's site for many months, so this installment was new to me. He does great pictorials of his projects. Highly recommended to anyone who may not have seen his library of Z restoration tasks.

When you get around to doing this repair, please take some pictures and post them here for the rest of us to take a look at. I've never seen a seal replacement performed with the shaft still in place. Not saying it can't be done. I'd just like to see some pictures of the job being performed.

A quick check of Steve's online store website shows the new antenna hardware parts will be offered as two separate order items: Black top for finisher nut @ $25.00 Antenna ball 3-piece kit @ $40.00 Add the already-available fender-top rubber seal @ $20.00 and your Harada antenna will look (to the outside world, anyway) as good as new. Suggestion for Steve: Offer all of five these parts together as a kit for, say, $75.00.

At its zenith (or maybe that should be 'apogee') in the 1970's, the encabulator was embraced by both the automotive and the aerospace industries. Check out this Rockwell promotional video from back in the day...

Or maybe the brass fingers are provided as insurance re electrical contact between the mast and brass tube.. the finisher nut with the brass fingers screws onto the top of the brass tube the antenna cable connects to the brass tube the antenna mast slides up and down inside the brass tube the brass tube is electrically isolated from the aluminum housing The fit between the brass tube's ID and the antenna mast's OD is somewhat loose, so I suppose that the electrical contact between the mast and the tube could become erratic if the mast starts to vibrate in the airstream when the car is at speed. The little brass fingers would ensure that the radio doesn't receive a jumpy signal. Or maybe the fingers are there to mechanically centre the mast elements as the come up out of the brass tube and then keep them from vibrating in the airstream. The extra electrical contact could be just an unintended bonus (although the use of brass makes me think that there really is an electrical purpose at work here). FWIW, only three of the brass fingers remained on the finisher nut of my antenna and even they were pretty mangled, so I just broke them off. I tested for electrical continuity between the mast and the cable before I installed the antenna in the car and it was fine. The mast didsn't seem too wobbly when it was fully extended. We'll see how things work when I finally get the car running and out on the road.

Encabulators, like Z's, came in many iterations. After the basic versions appeared in the late 1940's, they were embraced by the LA 'hop-up' community, who quickly generated modified versions for both 'show' and 'go'. My personal favorite was the chrome-reversed encabulator.

So not an electrical grounding necessity, but instead just a mechanical positioner for the mast ?

That looks like an encabulator housing to me. Haven't seen one for years.

Did you take any pictures?

There's a diagram in the FSM titled, 'Door Sealing Screen' that provides a pretty good pattern for the OE barrier sheet. Unfortunately, I don't have a photo of same in my files.

That's what I did and I'm happy with the results. I didn't take all the old tape off, though. Just the regions that were damaged or gnarly. You can later wrap a cosmetic layer of new loom tape over the entire harness if you want a completely seamless, new appearance. The loom tape is cheap and it doesn't take long to do the wrap, once you get the hang of it. However, things will get a lot more challenging if you remove all of the old tape first. Leaving most of the old tape helps to keep all of the wiring nicely bundled together.

Hah! I remember using wintergreen oil on the tires of my slot-racing cars back in the 1960's. Nothing new under the sun, it seems. As for trying it out now on old Datsun rubber, I'll wit for someone else to try that and report back. I'm still not over the pain of the epsom-salts-and-vinegar electroplating set-up that was also 'guaranteed' to work.