Namerow

Dimensional placements can be taken from the FSM, Section BF-1, Figure #BF-3, 'Standard Body Dimensions'. The version shown below comes from the 1970 FSM...

Probably? it's seems to be the better Nylon.. Here's an interesting read for anyone who wants to learn a bit about engineered thermoplastics. It doesn't specifically mention Delrin because Delrin is the trade name for a Dupont product that falls into the category of 'Acetal POM' (acetal polyoxymethalene). Celcon is a similar product from a different manufacturer (Celanese). POM's, along with PA's (polyamides -- includes nylon) fall into the category of 'semi-crystalline' thermoplastics. From my quick read of the selection guide, Delrin and other POM's might be suspect for the task at hand, which would seem to require: resistance to chemicals (gearbox lube and possible additives) resistance to high temperatures (heat generated by sliding friction) good abrasion resistance Look at the case study in Slide #50, where Nylon 66 with glass-fibre and mineral/bead additives is selected for automotive oil pan applications. This looks like it might be a better solution for the fork friction pads. Just source a typical 'composite' oil pan from the wreckers and then cut out a section that can be used to machine the pads. Thermoplastics - An Engineers Guide to Specifying - RTP Co (USA) - 2014.pdf

A lot of us are also interested whether this type of 'non-industrial' grade spot welder can deliver a decent result for joining a pair of light-gauge panels. Perhaps when you take delivery, you can take it for a test run with some 20 and 18-gauge scrap and post some pix of your results.

It's been a long time since I last did this job. Obviously, a box-end wrench is preferable to an open-end. You might consider buying an appropriate-length, decent-quality box end and then modifying it to fit. For this job, I think you should be able to get away with grinding the thickness of the box down by at least 50% in thickness. You can probably also get away with taking at least a millimeter off the outside diameter of the box. Hopefully, you'll be able to take it down to the point where you can get it to slip over the nut. You might also need to put a bend or two into the shaft to get the right approach angle. Try not to put too much heat into the end of the wrench while you're grinding away. You want to preserve the temper of the steel as much as possible.

Very cool. And all this time I thought they were just random numbers generated by some sort chronological ordering system. I wonder if this means that all of the parts numbers can be deciphered in a similar way.

Here are a couple of partial 'master' lists that I found online somewhere several years ago (sorry, no names kept so I can't credit the authors). Warning: This is an executable file, so be sure to scan it with your anti-virus software before opening. It should be clean, but you never know. If you feel really ambitious, you could transport Jim K's notes and pictorial info into the 'Owner 1' list and create a true 'Master List'. S30 Fasteners - Master Lists.xlsx

Entry port for small rodents?

I wonder whether a Subaru owners' website might give you some help? It's possible, though, that the limited-slip function can't be bench-tested.

Looks like a decent, relatively unmolested car. $12,700 bid with 6 days left, so it may not go cheap. Remarkable that the dash is uncracked. Two obvious areas that will need attention (or not): Battery tray area - hope there's enough good inner-fender metal left to get by with a clean-up and re-spray Passenger-side floor board - another victim of bad jacking practice Of course, you never really know what's going on in the dogleg areas behind the doors. $4700 for an engine rebuild? 38500 miles?

I don't think there's such a thing as a, 're-activate dead links' button that can be pushed. More likely, you'll need to contact the original link contributor and ask them if the materials you're looking for still exist. They may not. As one example, the photo links created by one major contributor on this site were lost when his cloud-storage provider adopted a fee-for-access business model. Unfortunately, it's also sometimes the case that the original link contributor has moved on.

And now, some pix of the Datsuns that are on display at the Toyota museum... This one's a Nissan, not a Datsun, The original Silvia was one of my favourite (Italian-inspired) Japanese designs from the 1960's. Just as for the 240Z, our old friend, Mr. Goertz, claimed to have a hand in the styling of the Silvia too. The car enjoyed a limited-production status, with many of the body panel reported to have been hand-crafted. Apparently only 550 were made. It's elegant... but tiny.

Frankly, I didn't even know that Nissan had a museum. Maybe next time. I see that it's located in Zama, which is on the western outskirts of Yokohama. My visit (which I limited to two weeks -- a mistake, in hindsight) was confined to the Kyoto-Osaka-Hiroshima-Nagoya area. I had mapped out beforehand a full slate of things to do and Typhoon Hagibis -- which arrived during the last part of my stay -- meant that I didn't even manage to get to all of the places I'd planned to. The Nissan museum would have required a full day. I'm planning to retire next year and hope to go back to Japan for a longer period so that I can experience more of the country and its people. I would certainly try to fit in a visit to the see the Nissan collection. For anyone interested in learning more about the Nissan 'Heritage Collection', go here: https://www.nissan-global.com/EN/HERITAGE/index2.html It doesn't look to be as elegant as the Toyota museum (more like a big warehouse stuffed with cars and memorabilia), but there's probably no question that it's the definitive Nissan collection.

If you liked that one, then I expect you'll really like this one. IIRC from the display placard, this is one of the early production KdFwagen's -- built before the start of WW2. Online write-ups indicate that the production facilities were up and running in the late 1930's, but only a handful of cars were made before the war broke out. At that point, the facilities (and the actual vehicle design) were re-purposed for military applications.

Next installment: Here's an initial group of some photos I took in the Toyota Motor Museum. The museum's collection is surprisingly egalitarian when it comes to the inclusion of examples of Japanese marques other than just Toyota. I'll post some photos of the Datsuns on display later in the week. The pix below will give you a sense of what the museum looks like. Some background details as a lead-in: The museum is located on the eastern outskirts of Nagoya (a major city, situated on the south coast of Honshu island, about midway between Yokohama and Osaka). It's about a 30-minute trip from the central Nagoya rail station and can be accessed by the Nagoya subway/metro, followed by a 10-minute ride on the 'LiniMo' magnetic-levitation (seriously, I'm not making this up) urban train. As you'll see from the lead photo, the museum building is big and ultra-modern. Inside, there's a three-storey main building and a single-storey satellite building. The main building includes a very nice restaurant where you can order a sit-down meal (fixed menu with daily specials) with table service. Includes a beer-and-wine selection. The museum collection is split up according to six 'themes'. For example: Early Pioneers, Sportscars, Classic Era, and Modern. The satellite building focuses on 'automotive culture' in Japan. Museum staff carry out daily running demonstrations of two or three vehicles on the property. It become quickly obvious to me that Toyota has spent a lot of money to assemble and display this collection. Building interior finishings, lighting, and display materials are all first-class. The vehicles are in immaculate condition and the choices -- of both which vehicles to include and then, which particular vehicles to buy -- look like they were made by some people who really knew what they were doing.

Is that a catalyzed paint (i.e. hardener mixed in)?

I recently had the pleasure of spending a few weeks in Japan on vacation. It was my first trip back there since the late 1980's, when I used to visit frequently on behalf of an employer that was in the business of providing design/build services for R&D-type automotive test facilities. On this long-awaited return visit, I stayed in the Osaka - Kyoto - Nagoya area ('Kansai' district), well to the west of Tokyo. I thought I'd post a few of the photos I took during my stay, since it was partly a 'car guy' itinerary and I got to visit and experience a few things that will probably be of interest to many of the CZCC members. I'll start with a few pix I took in the magazine section of a big bookstore at Osaka's Kansai International airport. Sharp-eyed viewers will note that Japanese magazines are bound on the right side of the page and read from back to front...

Reminds me of when (forty years ago) I fell victim to bad shop practice (mine) and a pair of $9.99 spring compressors (borrowed) and had a fully-compressed front spring get loose and come whistling past my ear at probably 70 or 80 mph. One inch.

I've seen some excerpts. I think it will be entertaining... but not necessarily 100% accurate in character depictions and historical facts. It looks, for example, like Henry Ford II is portrayed as a buffoon, which is not exactly accurate. He may have been a lout, but he has nobody's fool. I will be especially interested to see how they play Ken Miles -- a complicated character if there ever was one. But then, I loved 'Grand Prix' and it was very accurate either!

I'm really surprised by this (astonished would be more like it). Whenever I've spray-painted in an open garage, everything ends up covered with a light paint haze afterwards. It looks like this guy doesn't cover up anything in the garage before he gets started. I can't believe that that little window fan is generating much in the way of an air exhaust rate. I wonder if wetting the floor does more than just keep down floor dust? Or maybe your painter has mastered his gun settings to the point where overspray is only a minor issue?

Car guy, too... "George began his slide playing using the casing of a Sears-Craftsman 11/16ths spark plug socket wrench, rather than the traditional glass or steel finger tube."

Pardon my Weber-ignorance, but what's the difference between a '27' and an '18'?

PM sent

If the adjustment suggestions don't work for you, I have a good pair of hinges that I'll be happy to sell.

FWIW, I followed the recommendation of another CZCC member and used HVAC aluminum tape to replace the peeling factory plasti-chrome. I did this two years ago and the job is holding up nicely. The blue plastic 'rib' substrate has to be thoroughly cleaned and degreased to ensure a good result. The tape surface does not respond to polishing, but it has (and retains) a near-chrome sheen. I think you would be hard-pressed to tell the difference from the original unless they were placed side by side. I was very pleased with the results. The challenge with this job is that the blue plastic rib has a highly convex surface contour. Before using the aluminum tape, I tried a 'chrome' tape with a peel-off backing strip that I found in my local auto parts store. It's about 20% shinier than the aluminum tape and would probably be indistinguishable from the OE chrome. Unfortunately, the tape is made from plastic and it's a bit stiff. This is especially noticable across the short dimension of the tape and it wasn't happy being asked to form and lay down over the contour of the blue rib. The adhesive just wasn't up to the task of holding the long edges down and they would almost immediately start to lift. The aluminum tape is metal rather than plastic, so it formed very easily over the rib and there was no 'memory' effect trying to make it go back to flat.

Impressive, to say the least. I just took a quick look at their Facebook site and discovered more offerings that will interest CZCC members... like complete and partial firewall panels, for example. The detailing is very impressive. I have a suspicion that they're dimensionally accurate, too. Customer reviews (there are lots on the site) will probably tell the story on that point. Would you care to share with the rest of us the price you paid for the rad support kit?