Gary in NJ

Speed is not what makes a sports car. If that were the measurement, a Camary would be a better sports car then a Miata. A sports car is all about the harmony and feedback it provides the driver. In that sense the S130 lost the soul of a sports car.

Bounce It sounds like your carbs and maybe your tank need to be cleaned. If you buy the ZT video, cleaning the carbs will be easy. You'll also learn that the "windows" you are referring to are actualy the slides or pistons. There is no harm on mixing a new cap and rotor. Replacing the rotor is not pointless if that is the source of your ignition problems. I would suggest that you address one system at a time rather then the all at once approach.

With a little searching, you can find a FSM for download.

You're right, you don't know SU carbs at all.

From the photos, it's hard to tell if the claims are true. I would expect to see the engine bay and under carriage to be free of corrosion. But I don't know how it was stored. If the claims are true, it's worth whatever he is asking, which should be upwards of $25,000.

72zeta, I'm not sure that Dave will be checking this thread. Followthe link a few posts up for the group buy thread.

No shame in having a cap. Some fit quite well.

In NJ, no testing for vehicles with historic "QQ" tags.

You could spray it with PB Blaster the day before removal.

Yes! Another one down with the sickness. Welcome to the club.

That was once someones pride and joy. Now you can make it yours. Good luck.

A local Hess station does not have the fume-capture hose on the nozzle. For that reason (and the dedicated Super pump) I only purchase from that station. I too only keep the car about 1/2 to 3/4 fuel. This way I know I always have fresh fuel.

I think you're being kind. From the limited view of the seats, they are aftermarket, I would suspect that there is a 2 or perhaps a 3 in front of the mileage, and there are just too many things not "right". Why-o-why do people try to advertise the mileage as sub-99,999.9 when they know it's higher. It really ticks me off.

Yes, it's mid-July but I'm already thinking about winter maintenance. Why? Because it sounds much better then "I don't want to do that now, so I'll put it off to later". The list continues to grow and then shrink. For example, I had on my list to build new speaker boxes with new speakers because I had a speaker that I knew wouldn't last too much longer. But my son changed my plans when he cranked up the volume on 30+ year-old speakers. Some of my items were just too annoying (and simple) to wait; like mirrors that would droop every time I closed a door. Things get added as they are discovered as long as they don't affect drivability. Upgrading my non-working clock to a Zclock unit is on the list as is a new inner shift boot and a few firewall grommets. Added to the list just today is an R/T diff mount. Doesn't need to be done, but I'd sure like a stable differential. But the true reason for the winter maintenance task list is this; it keeps in touch with the Z during those months when I just can't drive the car due to salt-n-sand on the road. And boy do they love to spread that stuff here in NJ. If I can get everything apart in January, get parts in February, and button it all up in March, I be ready for that first great day in April.

That's the religion I try to spread. I coat everything with Anti-Seize.

I'm in. I'd love to get rid of the movement in the rear.

A poor ground can chew through alternators.

Well, if you're gonna buy tools, make sure to get 6-point sockets and box ends. Your nuts and knuckles will thank you.

I bought a 1:18 collectable just the other day on eBay. It's on the fireplace mantle. I was thinking of getting another for my office. Funny, the box says "300ZX Turbo". I wonder what's in the 240Z box; an RX-7? What is the scale/size of that one (given that they got the car wrong, the scale might be wrong too)? Where there other colors?

The 205/50-15 are short. They have an overall height of 23 inches vs 24.75 for the stock 195/70-14. This will lower the car by 7/8". As I have mentioned in other threads, I do not believe that you have the correct springs in your car. In addition to the excessive gap in the wheel well, it doesn't sit at the correct attitude. Your best bet is to remove the springs and compare them to an OEM length first. From there you can determine if you want to go shorter.

Assuming that nothing else has changed, that's what I was thinking. Swap the rear tires and see if the noise moves to the left.

Ron, The manual that I have is the Service Manual (red cover) that is available for download. While the model year is noted, there is no revision date or number. I guess I'll add a float adjustment to my winter maintenance. The different values would explain why my mixture setting are different by more then a full turn.

Rich, that would be very cool.

I'm resurrecting an older thread here (and something that has been discussed)... I note above in TS73-10 (dated 2/9/73) posted by Geezer that it shows different float heights for the '72 model year (~ 16mm front & ~ 12mm rear) yet the FSM indicates 14-15mm in figure EF-46. Which is correct? Why the different heights? If it has to do with the emissions system, and I have it disabled, should I stick with 14mm?

There's a car that just screams "love me". Take a good look a the condition of the frame before you get too deep (time & money).