Mike

Okay, I just looked up prices at Motorsport. They have the following options for rebuilt engines: '70 to '83 engines = $1,795 '84 to '89 engines = $2,750 You'll receive it in a crate to your house. I think they also charge for shipping. Not sure what that is.... It also says these prices are on an exchange basis only.

That price seems kind of high to me. I don't know about ZX engines, but, regular Z engines are around $1,500 to $2,500 depending on the options. In fact, after I think about it more... A ZX engine in a 240z would require a lot of modification. The ZX engine is fuel injected and will require a stronger drive-train (differential). Take a look at some of the engine solutions from Motorsport Auto. They can get rebuilt engines that are a lot less expensive. Anyway, that price just seemed too damn high for me. But, if it includes installation and all of the modifications to your 240z, it's probably right on. A popular modification for the 240z is to use a 280z block. It's got more horsepower and almost identical to the 240z block. The head is very similar, but, you'll have to check to see if you have round or square exhaust ports. Point is... check around... I think that price was high.

Can you explain the fix? I don't see it. You replaced the ignition switch and it fixed your dieseling? Or, was your car continuing to run at full idle speed after you turned off the key?

If someone adjusted your carbs, they might have done a few things to 'cheat' in order to get it running smoothly. My previous message indicated that some people modify the idle screw in order to get it to idle smoothly. A good idle (for a car with halfway decent SU's) is about 800 rpm. If you're idling over 1,000 or so... you might get that effect. I used to be good enough at adjusting my SU's so that the idle screw wasn't even touching the carb. They would idle perfectly at 800rpm w/out any help of the idle screw. A good way to check this is to loosen your idle screw completely (when the engine is running).

Does your car 'diesel' or continue to run very poorly? You did mention that it sputters and chokes, but, I wasn't really sure. Anyway, if it continues to chug and lurch like it wants to continue to run.... you might have a problem with the idle (or even the carb adjustments). Sometimes people tend to adjust the idle screw because their car doesn't idle smoothly. So, what do they do? They just increase the idle speed. This isn't good because it can cause the 'dielseling' symptom. I would start with a good timing adjustment, a good carb adjustment, and also check to make sure there is enough OIL in the carb pistons. You might also want to change the spark plugs and check the engine compression while you're in there. [m]

Putting her on the trailer...

Rear Shot of the car

Rear Hatch

Interior - NOT ONE CRACK ON THE DASH!!

Engine

Pict

Hi all, I did manage to pick up a 280z 2+2 today. The car condition is immaculate! I picked her up from a retired couple who actually purchased the car in '75. She said that she bought it about 4 months after it was delivered to the lot. So, it's an original owner vehicle!! They parked the car in '85 because they purchased another vehicle and this one was getting too many tickets. I guess she just had her foot into it too much. She mentioned something about 3-4 speeding tickets in a years time. Because of this, her husband pulled the car into the garage and said ENOUGH! Well, as time went on, they kept piling stuff on top of the car and eventually forgot about it. At least until they decided to retire and move to North Dakota. So, now the car comes out of the garage when they cleaned up the house and packed up to move. I guess they didn't want to move the car. Ends up that this car is in very good condition and only shows signs of sitting too long. Luckily, it sat from '85 to '02 in the garage! I think they said that it was started up a few times, but, never driven on a daily basis during that duration of time. Anyway, back to the car. It's got the original paint and has absolutely no damage. The hood was fixed due to a fender bender (hood got pushed underneath a taller bumper of the car in front of her). The whole body is straight and RUST FREE. The hydraulics probably need to be flushed. But, I could tell that the clutch and brakes were strong while I went through my checklist. The engine compartment is clean and from what I could see, there were NO oil leaks on the engine. I think the tranny has small amounts of seepage. But, the underside of the car was pretty dry. After a few days of cleaning up the car, I will attempt to start it. It also has the smog equipment and I think it has A/C (I'll have to double check that). I think it was worth the trip on my trailer. This car seems to be good enough to use as a daily driver. My wife's looking forward to driving a car again. She hates driving my truck. Here are some picts! (attached to next message)

I remember the hatch on the head syndrome. That wasn't fun. I managed to find a spot at the very top of my strut where it would stick in the open position. Only problem was when someone nudged the car just right.... the hatch would SLAM down on my head!! When I was looking for a replacement, the only option I found was through Nissan. If I remember right, the thing was expensive!! Something around $80?! I might need to be corrected on that price.

what's the link?

Hey all, I received this email from a guy in Norway. I thought the story was impressive. He's done a lot for his Z. I think he'll become a member of the club soon. I also asked him to post pictures...

Actually, I'd have to disagree. Most of the ladies I know (maybe that's the problem here) like to read Playboy RATHER than Playgirl. For some reason, ladies like to see other ladies. It's not a sexual thing, but, more like a comparison thing. I agree about the centerfold. However, if they really want to sell the heck out of the magazine, put some bikinis in there. I see you have thought about this already... Hey now, I always thought girls looked EXACTLY like that when they worked on cars... DAmn.. am I wrong? Ah, ok... :eek:

Damian, What was the name of the shop? I wouldn't be surprised if it's the same place.

Bikini's aside... I think I have seen at least a double-wide spread of a Z. In fact, the latest issue has a very clean 1974 260z in a double spread. Now, these aren't the kind of posters you can remove and hang on the wall w/out damaging the magazine itself. I wonder if it would be cost-effective for Robert to add an easy-to-pull-out poster in every issue. I do know that they are looking for good pictures of Z's for the magazine. [m]

One thing I'd like to see in Sport Z magazine is bikini-clad women! Something like the lowrider and custom car magazines. Or, hell... even a few topless women every now and then. Have you guys seen any of the overseas magazines? There's a Sportbike magazine that can get pretty racy. I'm not saying take it to a level like EZ Rider. Just a few classy looking women in bikini's would be nice.

Why not pick the color of our own Z's? I spent over $6,500 on this color... I sure hope it's my favorite on a Z. Otherwise, I'm screwed................. Ah, I just read the main point of the survey. FACTORY colors. I still like the yellows.

I'm also planning a trip to Australia early this year (work related). I'd like to hook up with a few members in the Melbourne area and go visit these guys. We'll see what happens during this work trip.

$470 *INCLUDES* shipping to Australia!! I was amazed to hear about that price. There is one catch, however, you must somehow transport your dash to a US office. They will ship it to Australia from that point. I lucked out because the closest US representative is located in Vancouver, WA. It's only 2-3 hours away from my house. Click HERE to vist their site. Take a look at their process. Here's the URL: htp://www.240z.org/links.php?op=visit&lid=179 As soon as I save the cash, I'm going to send mine. Considering the fact that you can't even get a new dash, this is the best option. :sick:

UPDATE: Here's the link to this site: http://www.240z.org/links.php?op=visit&lid=179 Here's a message I received back from Dashboard Restorations out of Australia. It seems that sending your existing dash to Australia is well worth the price! They have a link in our web-link area. Here's the message. Hello Mike. As the exclusive North American Representative of Dash Export Services of Queensland, Australia, we thank you for your recent inquiry in regard to our dash pad restoration services. Our service includes the consolidation of our customers dash pads and molded door panels for shipment to and from Australia, which provides substantial cost benefits to our clients due to specially negotiated freight rates for bulk consignments with a leading international shipping company. These consolidated rates are much more cost effective than those quoted for individual dash pad freight shipments. Our pricing is “all-inclusive” apart from local shipping to and from our Washington State consolidation point. Our service will provide you with a genuine and professional restoration by qualified craftsmen. Your unit will be totally stripped, repaired, re-padded, re-shaped, and re-covered with the best quality UV sun protected Bridgestone finishing material using our unique vacuum heat molding process. This process ensures that your unit will be finished to original factory specification, like new, in the color of your choice. We offer our customers an unconditional 100% guarantee on every product. Our turnaround is around 5 weeks including transit times to and from Australia. PRICE: $470.00 US Dollars (leave pad on steel frame). We trust our submission is of interest to you and look forward to the opportunity of providing you with the finest restoration at an acceptable price, and the best possible service. Please contact us at the number below to confirm your order. Since you live in Oregon, you may choose to drop the dash pad off at our location in Vancouver, Washington, rather than ship it to us. We look forward to hearing from you.

If you have something to sell, please feel free to post it in this forum. Post as much information that you can think of. Here are just a few things to include: 1) Year 2) Make 3) Model 4) Part Number (if it applies) 5) Color 6) Condition 7) Work needed And, most of all... if you can post a picture, you will get better results! Just use the attach file button at the bottom of your message. Make sure your photo is 640x480 or smaller and in JPEG format (usually .JPG or .JPEG extension).

I think there are 4-bolts on the carb side of the engine which are for this purpose. I'll have to dig up a pict to make sure. My engine isn't here right now.