olzed

I would think the return line would enter the tank and finish short. If you had some liquid in the tank you should be able to tell which line goes further to the bottom.Perhaps blow in the lines, or suck, whichever takes your fancy, as long as you don't swallow.

More on exhaust smell entering the cabin. On my 72 240 I had done all I could think of to try to remedy this, but it still persisted with the window down. Looking further, I noticed the area where the hatch compresses against the rubber along where the two hinges are, is two different profiles. The hatch rim is straight trying to seal against the rubber thats attached to the flange where the hinges are. At this area the body and the rubber takes a dip down to accomodate the hinges.There was a gap of quater inch wide and five inches long. I stuck on to the hatch sealing area at this point two pieces of self adhesive sponge strip about 6 inches long, at each hinge point. The gassing with the window down has ceased. Surely the vehicle wasn't made new like this with a hatch that did not conform to the body shape. I know this hatch is not origional to the car, as it had the rear vents from an earlier model. It fits perfectly apart from the sealing area where the hinges are. Are the early hatches different in this area?

So, Did the man cure his leaky carb?

Im assuming origional carbs and engine. What type of fuel pump.Does it still have the fuel return line which leaks excess fuel back to the tank? Might be a leaky float valve in the carb or float level set wrong.

You should get that response in writing. Some insurance agents have a habit of bending the facts to get another client. I have had some misadventure with insurance agents.:stupid:

Nice job. Mine took 12 months to get to that stage. Lazy paintshop

Ten years ago I converted my 72 240 from auto to manual. Not too hard. One of the local 'experts' on 240s told me I would have to change the diff as well. This sounded rubbish to me so I left it as was. ie 3.5. This car is now a breeze to drive with plenty of poke and quite a cruisy drive if thats what we want. 2600 rpm in 5th at 60mph or 100kmph.

Just for info. I had a Subaru LSD 4.1, which I removed from a vehicle at Pic A Part, cost $45. Modified the drive stubs, to allow bolting up the origional half shafts from my 72 240. Took one drive down the highway, came home and removed it. Made the car into a dog IMHO.I went back to a 3.5. Much nicer drive. BTW the 240 and Subaru diffs look exactly the same. The Subaru was a R 160. Oh and I would just ignore this fool. He may have already removed your good diffs internals and put in his stuffed parts.

If you have an electric pump, it will continue running.Just ignore it.

Hello Andy. Look for a 1970-73 240Z. One with no cracks in the dashboard. Mechanically these are very simple cars, although the 73 appears to have some carburettor issues. One company which I have usedfor parts is Motorsport Auto. Very easy to deal with and very quick. Check out their prices. Black Draggon is another. There are plenty more, and i'm sure others will comment. Good luck.

Well thats good. It's nice you are going again.

And? We are waiting.

My 72 has philips head screws on the engine bay plate.

Hi Sarah. My wife and I have a 240 which is a weekend driver/cafe cruiser, I was going to go the header route some years back but after being a passenger in a friends 240 with headers I decided to leave it standard, as I found the drumming and resonance from the headers set up, made the car unpleasant .Our car still has good performance, and our top speed limit here is only 100kmh--about 60mph. We are doing a 1500mile trip this coming weekend so a quite car is good.---Or fairly quiet anyway. Brian.

You can still get headlights even though you might have dirty or loose battery connections. To give you an indication if your solenoid is no good, you could take a screwdriver and jab it across the two large terminals at the end of the solenoid Make sure the car is in neutral, and be prepared for a few sparks.You dont need the key turned on to do this.Some may not agree with this but can do no harm that I know of. Do this on the ends of the terminals to avoid arcing on the threads. The starter should spin without turning the engine. If the starter spins then the solenoid is your problem. I would suspect that the solenoid IS your problem. It may be cheaper to pick up another complete starter than have a new solenoid fitted.

Run away from this one as fast as you can. Serious dollars to fix all that. Once you got into it, it would be far worse than you can see.

Try the headlights, are they dim? Perhaps you have a flat/dud battery. Could be a loose or dirty battery cable connection. Disconnect each one, clean with something abrasive and retighten. Could be the solonoid on top of the starter is bad.This is basically an electrical switch, and the symptom you describe suggest to me this could be your problem. You should be able to pick up another starter motor from a car breaker, Or Pic a Part. If you don't feel confident to do stuff yourself take it to a professional.

What are the temperatures in Colorado at this time of the year?. We are just coming out of a cold and very wet winter.:disappoin

This earthquake has been a nightmare for the folk in the affected areas. Thank God we live a long way from Christchurch. I contacted the motel we stayed at on our visit two weeks ago, and he said they had no damage although they have felt it all. Last report is more than 300 aftershocks. That must surely jangle the nerves. My wifes cousin lives only a few miles from one of the worst affected areas and they are fine. Seems some areas are built on what was once swampy land, hence the liquifacation of the ground. Similar to a concrete vibrator I would imagine. The water and mud, pumps up from down below. There are roads that were once straight, now have a bend. looks like two or three metres in some places. Weird. Over 100,000 homes damaged. Many to be demolished.

I once flipped a 260 onto it's side in a field All that was needed was a sturdy fence post, a chain block and a length of rope. Method- Place the rope over the roof and tie off the end under the car.I tied it to rear sway bar.Find a post or tree not too far away and anchor end of chain to this, then tie the rope to the chain block. Take up the slack and start hauling away. I had to prop the car halfway through, and readjust the chain. With the car on its side, I made it safe with an oil drum then proceeded to strip what I wanted.

For what it's worth. I bought a 1987 corolla SW some years back with about 100000 km on it. It had from time to tome a grumble from the front of the engine, mainly when cold. I put it down to a worn timing chain tensioner. I changed the oil from time to time basically when I thought of it. The oil I used was the same as I used in my excavator, high detergent diesel engine oil. As time went on the grumbling stopped and at 260,000 km when I drove the vehicle to Pic a Part and picked up 250 bucks for it, it still used no oil and the grumbling never returned. I put it down to the high detergent oil cleaning the sludge from all the galleries and such, Or maybe it had worn off some rough edges somewhere:

I had similar with my 240. Lights just vanished. It was a wire came unsoldered from the light switch. Simple to fix-hard to find.

No contest. 2.8 and 2 inch SU carbs.

Ha ha. Nothing beats a John Deere.

Yes, I second everyones kind remarks.The Z community is a great thing. We live in Auckland which is in the North Island, and thankfully hundreds of miles from this disaster. We were in Christchurch just over a week ago and were on a tourist train which goes through Darfield which is very close to the epicentre. Fortunately this area is not heavily populated. Thank God we were safe at home in our beds when this happened!!