tanny

Like the stock look the best. Unfortunately my 240 came with a spoiler(not a very good looking one either), so I guess I'll have to be happy with a stable 135mph. Maybe a trembling 90 at best. Old man.

The engine and tranny are so easy and quick to pull as a unit and 100 times easier to work on outside the car that doing it any other way doesn't make much sense. Unless you can't or don't want to afford the rental of a puller. Victor.

It may not make any difference to you, but didn't the 71 have the smaller diameter rod bolts? If you replace all the rods, you might want to go with the ones that use the larger diameter bolts. I think that the 73 240 had the larger bolts, but not sure. Someone else here can give you the correct info on this. Victor.

I've always told my kids that the word "fair" was invented by someone on shrooms. Has no meaning outside of fairy tales. If you take the word seriously you're in for a really disappointing and depressing life. Just try to dwell on the good stuff and flush the crap. Said Confucious. Also, stay away from the gasoline fumes!:classic: Cheer up, bud. Victor.

Glad you mentioned the trimmer line Chris. Just happen to need about five of those plastic pins for my rivets, and was trying to figure out what I could use as a substitute. I'll give that a shot. Thanks, Victor.

I live at the epicenter of hantavirus habitat(four corners area). We've had a few people croak around here from snuffling mouse pee and dingleberry dust. Every time I sweep the garage I throw a little salt over my shoulder for good luck and hope that the cats haven't been lazy. I make sure the cats stay lean so that they have to supplement their diet with those little bundles of virus. This summer in this area of the state the West Nile virus is supposed to be at maximum levels, so between these two diseases there is very little hope of survival. I'd better spend all my money now on the Z before it's too late.:classic: Victor.

My 240z had been stored inside for exactly twenty years when I bought it in 2002. It had 100,000 miles on it. It came with a triple Weber setup. I rebuilt the engine, bought new brake master cylinder, new wheel cylinders, new pads and shoes and hardware, new clutch master and slave cylinders, new rubber hoses on EVERYTHING, new water pump, new tranny and differential seals, new throw out bearing and pilot bushing, new belt, new electric fuel pump filter, new engine compartment fuel filter, new tires, new strut inserts and bellows and bump stops, new muffler, new coil springs, cleaned out fuel tank and lines(I tried not doing this and had non stop fuel problems), new mechanical fuel pump(73 has both mech and elect) cleaned out brake and clutch lines, new synthetic tranny and diff oil, new dot 4 brake and clutch fluid, cleaned and rebuilt the Webers, had the radiator and heater cleaned and pressure tested, new 100,000 mile radiator fluid, greased all wheel bearings along with new grease seals, rust repair, new paint job, and fixed about 1000 other small problems including the clock. Still needs seat reupholstery and carpets. Other than that, there were no major problems. Have fun. Victor. :stupid:

As long as I can get to the home page and the forums, everything else is inconsequential. The Masters degree is what's consequential, so don't let the Z site interfere with your studies. Thanks for all the effort. Victor.

Enrique's method is really the easiest way to find the drain. The battery cutout switch may be the quickest way to solve the problem. Mr. Camouflage's comment about the immobilizer is quite correct. When my homemade immobilizer red LED is "off",the main solenoid in the circuit is constantly energized and uses a substantial amount of energy, and will drain the battery within a few days. Sounds counterintuitive, but when the light is "on", the main solenoid in the circuit is not energized, with the only energy drain being the LED, which wouldn't drain the battery for many weeks. Thus, whenever I turn the key off, I turn the unit on. Victor.

Pardon my senility, but I'm sure now that what I was thinking of was the fan clutch. Senior moment. Well, I'll just have to take the tach out and mess around with it. I'll have a spare tach shortly, so I can hope that it will work better. Have to go back through the threads and see if I can r&r one of them. From what I read, mine is most likely a 4 wire(73), which in one thread was claimed to be less reliable than the three wire. Thanks everyone, Victor.:stupid:

From the description that I remember(or maybe don't remember), I thought that the tach had some kind of viscous coupling mechanism using oil that would eventually evaporate or somehow otherwise disappear, resulting in erratic movements. That is the oil I was wondering about. If this is not the way the tach works, please ignore this thread. I haven't had a tach apart so I am ignorant of its inner workings. Thanks, Victor.

A while back, someone said he replaced the oil in his tach to keep the needle from jumping around. Does anyone remember or know the viscosity of this oil? I thought he said he used gear oil. Thanks, Victor.

Carl: "Like a Candle in the Wind". No offense to the princess. I'd better stop while I'm behind. Victor.

Man, I just have to ask: How do you light up a fag? Don't anybody get too nasty here. I know there must be a benign explanation. I think she was just being polite: she had gas but just wouldn't let it go.

Here's a really tree hug solution to your air conditioning problems. Forget those cfcs.:classic:

English tart. That's why they named her "Two-for-tea" Z. Victor.

For those of you worried about fan vs horsepower: You actually can get more power at high rpms if the fan clutch is defective and locks up. The fan then acts like an airplane propeller and helps with thrust.:classic: Victor.

Hey, pretty nice of you guys to name your z club in my honor. Nice site. Yeah, squirming around under the car trying to bench press a chestful of transmission up into a cramped little crevice is not fun, especially for an ailing old wimp like myself. Would love to have a nice four poster lift so I could zoom around underneath the car on one of those neat little stools with the wheels. Maybe the next life. Victor.

Goodbye James, you left too early, thanks so much for your help. And to Delta I wish you much happier times and a fullfilling life. Sincerely, Victor.

Excuse the drawing from Paint. Hope the drawing comes up in the post. This was my interpretation of his description. Could be wrong, but it worked. The three parallel 2x4s are 10" long. The two crosspieces are two and a half inches wide(so that I ended up with a space between them of five and a half inches so that the lowest part of the trans case would fit between them) by 10.5 inches long. The hole in the middle is whatever size bolt you're using to attach to your jack. I glued and screwed all the pieces of wood together. Then it boiled down to just wiggling off the tranny and balancing it on the cradle. Seems kind of iffy, but it worked very well for me doing it by myself. Victor. cradle.bmp

Made the cradle and it worked fine. Used the 4 speed sleeve and bearing and shifter as suggested in my other post and everything worked perfectly. All the synchros seem to be fine so am quite satisfied with my junkyard tranny. Cruising is way more enjoyable now that my tach and my ears say that I have dropped approximately 800 RPMs at 60 mph. Have a 3.90 rear end. On a side note, when I was taking the old tranny off, I noticed that a significant oil leak had developed coming down the shield in front of the tranny. I just assumed it was the rear main because there was no oil leaking from the front tranny seal. So I ordered a Reddi seal(expensive, but they work really well) and then removed the clutch to do the replacement. Problem was I hadn't noticed(typical of me, very unobservant, much to my wife's chagrin) that there was no oil on the inside of the tranny shield, and on closer inspection the leak was caused by some really loose rear oil pan bolts. As usual, my brain started with the most complicated solution and slowly worked its way to the least complicated, very inefficient and aggravating, but I learn things I normally wouldn't. Anyway thanks to everyone for their help. Victor.

That sounds tempting. Of course it would be nice to have my own cradle if I have to do it again(If the tranny turns out to be a pile of !&*#). Thanks.

Zkid, Hadn't thought of suspending it that way. Do you just put the rope through the stick shift hole, get it to approximately the right height, then tie the rope to a length of wood or metal across the shifter opening? I'm a bit confused as to why you would tie a rope to the hood catch and where is that rope attached to the tranny? I will try to get my son to help. Thanks, Victor

Any suggestions that will make reinstalling the tranny by myself easier? The Z is on jackstands just high enough to get the tranny underneath. I've only installed the tranny with the engine out of the car, so this looks like it is going to be way more difficult if not impossible. I do have the clutch alignment tool, but even with the engine out of the car, those tools are mediocre at best. I have a small floor jack but no tranny jack. I can bench press the tranny up into the tunnel, but can't hold it there for very long. Any suggestions(no cost) would be appreciated. Thanks, Victor.

Titanium?