Zed Head

Here's the "washer" with the two hole sizes. Nissans's drawing is terrible. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/30 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/31

Not sure that is correct. Part #29 is the bushing with the sleeve. It shows up to 6/71 where there is a change, then through all of the following Z's. (Sorry for the big space, there's an ad stuck in the quote and I can't delete it.) p.s. the early 240Z's had the solid rubber coated "washer", the scalloped ones came later. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/29

People have been searching for old stock bushings for years. Not much luck. eBay is probably your best bet and they'll probably be expensive. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/29 https://www.google.com/search?q=55476-N4300&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS862US862&oq=55476-N4300&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l3&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

The standard poly bushings tend to be too tight anyway, being compressed and passing diff noise in to the cabin. They made them too thick, or the sleeve too short. That missing flange on the shell of your old bushing might actually help create a small air gap when the bar is installed. Not really clear what you mean by "fit". Are you saying that you can't get the PU bushing past the ragged edges of the old metal shell? You might just take a hammer and spread the hole out so you can get the PU in there. Put everything together including the inner metal sleeve and see how things will end up. Don't overlook that the outer washers are actually torqued down on the sleeve, not the PU when the bar is installed. If the sleeve is wider than the PU parts by just a bit that will create an air gap that will block diff noise. None of that area back there is precision work. Don't sweat small problems, you can jam things together as long as the nuts can torque down on the stud properly.

I have not heard of the two transmissions being of different length. Have you measured them to be sure that they are of different lengths? I'm saying that I thought that the transmissions were of the same length, so changing transmission should not be a problem. Only one part number is shown for the 240Z's up until they changed propeller shafts because of the differential placement. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/propeller-shaft

Sounds like you kept a driveshaft from the early 71's, that had the diff mounted forward. Might be more that, than the transmission you're using. Regardless, you should show where you're measuring from. The whole thing or the ends of the shaft, or the u-joint centers. I think that there are only two propeller shafts for the 240Z's, the early one with the forward diff, and the later one with the diff moved back.

I've seen silver and black. Tokicos are light blue. Are you sure they're not Tokicos? Look for numbers stamped in to the body or on a label.

I don't want to discount other methods but if you have the room to hammer and a properly shaped cold chisel you can spread that staked portion out again, only affecting the already missing portion of the threads. The farther you spread it the less leverage it has on the threads.

The first electronic ignitions were just points replacements, not "high energy" so they still used the ballast. Your 74 is the first year of electronic in the Z's. Look under the dash by the fuse box and you'll see the space age module. You might burn up the coil or the module if you run without the ballast. You're letting more current through parts that weren't designed for it. The ballast went away in 1978 when they went to a high energy (current limiting) system.

Your question is all over the internet. Functionally, they are mirror images. Way back when, a smart manufacturing engineer realized that they only needed to make one part, and just flip it. The Z cars were the economical man's sports car. They saved money where they could.

The old tachs do definitely go bad. I put a 78 tach in my 76 after the tach needle started getting stuck when it got hot out. That looks like the magnetic pickup for a stock 260Z ignition system. Looks like you have a stock ignition system. I assume that the engine runs, but the tach needle doesn't move. Does it move at all, ever, when you turn the key on?

Lots of missing information here. Kind of seems like you meant to post a picture. A 260Z probably uses the blue wire from the coil negative terminal to provide the tach signal.

Concur. Here's a drawing from 1978.

You could do what zKars wrote about, linked below (meta?, a link to a post in the thread being used to post the link). Pretty clear that it will probably fail. If it were me I'd contact GMB and see if they'll send you one of theirs after they fix the issue.

I just posted this thread link in a different thread and realized that we wee describing here how to use a switch and a relay to complete a circuit that powers another relay, the original fuel pump relay. Might be easier to just use the oil pressure switch to control a relay that controls the pump directly. Just a thought.

The basic concepts in this thread would work on a 260Z also. Using the pump instead of the AFM wiring.

The illustration also shows the nut thread orientation. It's a normal righty-tighty.

An impact driver might do it. Or, if you have some solid metal stock and a drill press you could probably build something to put over the lugs on the other side. A couple of holes and some lug nuts and you'll have the two levers that you need.

You might check other things before you take it apart. If you didn't hear detonation or rev to 8 grand there's no reason for something to break. Could be something simple like valves getting loose. Rings on one side, valves opening and closing correctly on the other. That's all there is to creating pressure. I'd give it a good inspection and "re-tune" before taking it out.

"Toast" doesn't sound right. If it's freshly built it seems like the rings just didn't get seated correctly or are wrong for the cylinders. Might just need new rings. Just being positive.

The parking brake adjustment mechanism is designed such that it will not tighten the drums so far that the shoes rub. Pulling the handle moves the shoes, but the adjustment wheel only moves when the shoes get out far enough to get the arm over the next tooth on the wheel. After it goes over the tooth the arm drops back enough, in to the valley between the teeth, to let the shoe fall back slightly. The adjustment arm moves up and down in the valley between the teeth every time you pull the handle until the shoes wear enough to get over the top of the next one. If you have the mechanism working just crank way on the parking brake handle until the handle ends up in the same spot with each pull. Over time you'll notice that the handle pull gets longer then suddenly it will get shorter as you pass over a tooth. I rewrote this a few times, but that's the basics, I think. It's a pretty cool mechanism.

I'm not on the notify list, but feel compelled to say that there will be little to no benefit from swapping blocks. Besides that, you'd need new pistons, rings, etc. to fit the "3" overbore (is that mm"). It could get expensive and if the turbo engine is in good shape you're probably best off to leave it alone.

Never mind.

Could be I missed it. I sold the car so can't check. How does it seal without the rubber piece? Did you try it?

I've only read about them breaking for the guys that have V8's and abuse them.