Zed Head

When does it not run? It is only supposed to run during Start and when the engine is running. How are you testing it?

I kind of like the factory method, if the marks are there. Just make sure that the left side, the pulling side, is under tension.

You're implying big sparks, with snapping noise. The clock is the only thing that is on when the key is off, I believe. A simple "amp meter" is a 5 amp fuse in an inline fuse holder. Connect it to the negative terminal and hold the other end on the negative post. If it blows you have over 5 amps flowing. Or use a circuit breaker "fuse", mentioned in a different thread. You could also remove the clock fuse and use a test light between negative terminal and post. It should not light. Anyway, only the clock should be pulling amps. Electrical can be frustrating. You can't see it.

They don't look like metal. Looks like wood splinters from somebody's timing chain wedge.

Don't overlook the little screws.

I thought that you were using a timing light, not timing by ear. Without the numbers it's pretty easy to get stuck down a rabbit hole.

Both are on Facebook and home based Datsun guys. All my dealings were via FB, FB Messenger, and texts. Who needs a website anymore? Thanks. I wonder if these guys know that by using only Facebook they are limiting their visibility to potential customers. I don't know if Facebook knows that I have an account because of my email address and are trying to force me to sign in, or if those pages are closed to everybody without a Facebook account. Either way, I could not look at the page without being a signed-in Facebook member. This isn't a comment meant to imply anything about the Facebook users out there. It's popular. Just pointing out the fact that the way it's set up forces users to join and sign in if they want to see Steve Bonk or the other guy's products. They might not realize that. Pretty fascinating how much control Facebook has, without people realizing it.

Who are these people? I found a Facebook page but Facebook won't let me look at it unless I sign in. https://www.facebook.com/TransAmBSedan25Challenge/posts/steve-bonk-more-race-parts-for-sale-httpwwwebaycomitm350759573909sspagenamestrk3/237687966371107/

No. Your best option might be to just remove the pump and inspect the parts for wear. As far as the perceived performance improvement. if you timed it before then you should know what the timing was before you changed the pump. Just check it again and see what it is now. Advancing ignition timing can definitely give an engine more pep if it was less than optimum before.

Does it sound like the noise in this video? That's a shaft rubbing on a dry bushing/bearing surface. Not good. You might also check your belts and other bearings. I think the AC belt idler pulley bearing often makes this sound too. About 2:50.

You might just be hearing the contacting of the new pump parts. To get higher pressure they might have changed the shape of the pumping components and also used a higher pressure relief valve. But, there should be no effect on performance. I'm not sure that MSA really proofread what they wrote. How does a pump maintain "static" pressure? Anyway, they imply that the pump pushes high volume at low PRM. That would require a redesign of the "gerotor". https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/17-8032 "Kameari High Performance Oil Pump is the best pump available. It is designed to maintain a static pressure of 6kg/cm2 (85.3 PSI), "

The comments are interesting. I wonder who ZIndustries is. The engine is cammed. Not original! Subtract $40,000.

Here's 1976. Doesn't seem to be a mistake. It's the same over the years.

Actually, Nissan 280ZX turbo transmission fluids have been a point of confusion. 80W-90 or "Dexron", whatever Dexron meant at the time. Here's 1983.

Browsing on Motor Sport Auto and saw that they have relabeled their red links to the proper brown, and it looks like they have also derated them to the proper amperage. Yay! Old Z wiring is safer now. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4329 https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4336

I noticed that your link was messed up in one of your earlier pictures. Somebody lost the other piece the end that connects to the battery, with the plastic clip and the eyelet. Looks like they just pulled the end out and clamped it down. It will be longer and more correct with the proper pieces. Looks like they're hard to find though. Here's a picture from BAT showing what should be there. The link is between the two red marks.

And this one about GL$/GL5 oils.

This one is pretty good too. Synchros.

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-CB211-15-RP-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B009WQPC06/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=mini+fuse+circuit+breaker&qid=1634236907&sr=8-9

Came across this guy's youtube channel and he seems to know his stuff. There are other good videos but here's a general one that might be worth watching.

Different manufacturers making the same design. There have been a few discussions about the differences but it seems that any ECU from 75 to through 78 will work on any EFI engine. I tried the range, except 77, on my 76 and they all worked. The 78 ECU did crap out on me after a short drive, but I think that's why the car was being parted out. The one thing that won't work without the proper ECU is the altitude fuel adjustment. Here's another ECU link.

The short one looks familiar. 280Z. Looks in decent shape, hang on to it. They get crunched by curbs and shrubs and floor jacks. Part #10. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/radiator-grille-bumper/from-aug-76

470 HP, wide tires, and an R180. I think it's a show car, not a go car. "Powered by a 400 cu in 470 hp Blueprint built small block Chevy"