Zed Head

Why did you replace the alternator? The VR has current path errors possible also. If you were getting zero charge, probably the alternator. Overcharge, probably the VR. And don't assume that Autozone gave you the correct product. Could be they gave you an internally regulated alternator. Here's a nice diagram. Note that what people are calling Red now actually started as Brown. Had it Copied, didn't Paste it.

As SteveJ said, it's for the external regulator plug. MSA should have them in stock. 😁 "It is small, weather-resistant, and simply plugs into the wiring harness in place of the original voltage regulator."

I went to the top of the page and couldn't find what "lean boot" means. The ECU's are analog computers and use capacitors to control injector open duration. No ones or zeros. The algorithms are hard-wired in, no programming possible. You can only change the characteristics of the inputs to manipulate the outputs.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4067

You might check your engine mounts. Maybe the engine is low and/or shifted.

Here's another way they show the battery connection.

Looks like a late model alternator that he swapped pulleys on. That extra bolt could be a mounting lug that fits a slotted bracket on a different model of car. Here's an example of a "B" molded in to the case showing where the battery charging cable connects. Look for those. "E" is Earth, meaning ground. You can also use a meter and see if the lug is grounded to the case or not. The lug looks insulated though, more like it is the battery connection. Better get that right before you go too far. ZCD generates a lot of new parts and not all of them are the greatest (see brake kits). Also known for not supplying instructions with his new products (see brake kits). Good luck and be careful. p.s. I'm not saying that he sells bad products. Just that extra work can be required to get them to work correctly.

Where did you get the alternator? Post a link. There should be letters molded in to the case. A "B" and an "E", maybe a"P".

Grammatically, that would be a friend of the alternative. Just trolling... I wonder if ennisdavis has a tray under the battery lifting it up. The stock battery location is generally bad. Puts the positive post close to metal and has a leak point directly above the battery that continually washes corrosive salts down over the fender well if the car gets wet. Yet, they stuck with it all the way to the ZX. A shorter battery with a complete cover on top would be a big improvement. Points deducted though.

I had forgotten about that list. I got locked out from editing it so quit updating. Here's the one. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-161/ I figured Hershey was the Pennsylvania Hershey. Didn't know they had a big car show. I did go to an old tractor show out by Reading when I lived out there. I coulda went to Hershey! That was before I had a Z. There is certainly a lot more old stuff out there than out here. Which event? One of these or different? https://www.aacamuseum.org/events/ https://www.aacamuseum.org/

Wonder why they keep using a part that must be destroying the product's quality credibility. How much could they be saving, if anything? @123ignitionusa

Do you have a link? I'm not sure what list you mean, the whole thread is a list and the last car is a 70 or a 71. Do you mean 391? The 11/69 build? Also don't know what Hershey is. @zspert

Was going to add this graphic to my other post. Shows the path of the exhaust gases, up through the round hole and right over and down in to the rectangular hole.

Unforeseen circumstances. Maybe he, you know, got a cold. Anybody notice that the seller decided to call himself "TheZMan".

The ports need to match though. That's the reason it needs to be bent/manipulated back to shape.

Welders, take a look here. I'm not a welding expert but I think that exhaust manifolds are difficult to weld because the carbon content changes after a billion heat cycles. Found a good video though. I do know that you can use welding to bend things. I'd probably just find a good welder and ask him to weld some beads on the underside and it will pull that end down as it shrinks. Then have the mating surface ground flat. Really though, if you have a local speed shop there's probably an old-timer there that knows exactly what to do. Or one of the tuner shops, the turbo guys probably warp them all the time. Warped manifolds are common.

I think that Captain Obvious has written some good stuff about the EGR system. Can't remember the details, but I think that if you just seal the hole at the top of the intake manifold with a plate and a good gasket you will not have any vacuum leaks. Sounds like you did that with tape already. You don't need to seal the bottom because it is just a passage to the hole at the top. I used a 16mm bolt inside the remaining piece of tube on the exhaust manifold, with some ceramic muffler sealant paste to seal the hole in the exhaust manifold. Cut a groove in the bolt threads and it becomes a self-tapping screw thread. Or, if there is a piece of pipe left in the exhaust manifold you could find a compression fitting and use that. Or, simply, you could crimp it and fold it over with some vise-grips and it would probably seak just fine. Ugly but effective. Do you have your heater core intact or is it "bypassed"? If you're not using the heater core you should block the ports, not bypass them. Bypassing can cause overheating.

It's early for obvious but have to ask - have you tried lifting up on the other end? There's play in those center holes. Only one stud is visible in your picture. It should rotate around it. Put all three in the middle and if it's still off it might be junk. Or you could grind the opening bigger. Or use welded beads to pull it down as they shrink. The metals guys probably know some tricks.

391 is on BAT. Says No Reserve. Needs a resto. Some surprising small problems. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-74/

Isn't getting rid of things because they're hard to fix a form of giving up? The vapor tank actually makes the car more of a pleasure to be around, and removes one "why do I smell gasoline?" source. There is a lot on a car that can be removed because it wasn't there in the past. Go back to carbs, remove the PCV system, get rid of the charcoal canister, go back to points, yada yada yada. I'll bet that there's enough metal left that you could just find a threaded fitting and "self-tap" some threads in to the tank. Use some sealant or epoxy on the threads before final assembly. If it doesn't work, then go ahead and "delete" it. At least give it a shot.

Looks like quite a few variations on that tank over the years. Click Engine then Fuel Tank. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978 I don't have welding or brazing gear so if I had that problem I'd be looking for a mechanical solution. It would be good to see what's left on the tank.

For example, for people that follow sports, an informative post. Here's a normal healthy family man who got COVID last year. Said he was fully recovered but now he's taking time off from work as an ESPN analyst. Just some real world looks at people you might recognize from TV, that might be like typical CZCC members. Hopefully he does well with whatever is wrong with him. https://sports.yahoo.com/esp-ns-todd-mc-shay-taking-leave-of-absence-to-focus-on-health-182415309.html https://www.yahoo.com/now/esp-ns-todd-mc-shay-describes-dark-place-during-covid-19-hospital-stay-161222259.html

The thread's purpose is not to change opinions. It was started to discuss COVID and help keep people informed. Most of my posts contain links that describe the state of the situation and/or give advice about how to deal with it. Other people have felt the need to post their opinions. Even so, there's nothing really wrong with that. Your comment reminds me, no offense intended, that people generally feel that they MUST look at all posts. They have to click because it's there. The reality is that they don't have to click and they don't have to read. Even better, each thread has a button at the top that allows a user to Ignore it. Anyone who feels offended or nervous about what's in the thread should just click the button. There's no need for protective censorship. The button is right up there at the top. You can Ignore specific members also. p.s. If Z cars is all that are allowed then the Boobs thread will need to be ended also.

Life is about issues Mike. A life that only revolved around Z cars would not be very substantial. We're all adults here. We can handle it. DC, what struck me about your post was that you didn't show any compassion for the woman who put her mask on when she saw you coming. Despite the fact that you had seen your own wife suffering with COVID so you knew what she was trying to avoid. It just seemed cruel. But we can't all be nice guys, I guess. Anyway, it will be interesting to see how society fares when institutions shut down because of actual sickness instead of prevention. I wish that the various authority figures could learn how to frame the subject in ways that everyone can understand.

Waste of words. Never mind.