woytovich

Well Terrapin Z is correct, he found the "kit" installed in my car... and indeed the mount has been cut out to 1 1/8". At this point I am thinking the BEST way to handle this is to go back to a stock arrangement. I need to see the surface that the stock bushing rests against on the insides of the body-side mount. I COULD weld the 1 1/8 hole shut and redrill for the stock bolt... but I think this would be easier and maybe better: I'm thinking I could take the washer think, weld the hole closed and then drill the proper sized hole dead center. Use a stock bushing and a bolt of the proper shaft diameter that is long enough and torque down against the steel bushing sleeve that way. Centering the bolt on both sides rather than off center like the washer is now. Thoughts? Mark

YIKES... so what was installed was the stock bushing and this kit - that means the "insides" were not correct for the "outsides". I THINK this is really not good, dangerous even.

Mine is similar but not the same. Same idea though. So, again, what is the STOCK configuration? What fills that hole? What does the bolt go through on the body side?

But those bolts will not work with the rest of what I have... (will they?) The hex washer thing fills a hole in the body side of the mount that is 1 1/8" diameter. It has a hole in it that is not round and is not centered. If I use the bolts you have will I be needing to drill out the hole to round? This "washer" is what rests against the end of the bushing. Once it is torqued down the TA will move up/down with the rotation of the steel on steel of the washer in the hole in the mount I guess? What an odd set up... Can you tell me how it is SUPPOSED to work? (the up/down movement of the TA and the attachment of the TA tot eh body) Arrrgghh... Mark PS and I'm sorry if I started 2 threads... the first was a torque question, I didn't want to loose the opportunity for help on the broader question of what is going on with this bolt...

Yes, and the "washer" is shaped to fit it... WHAT is that thing? Is it not stock? Was it some one-off thing? Was it an aftermarket thing? (note the hex shape of the washer and the lip where it sits in a recessed hole) I REALLY need to see another 71 240z in this section to understand what is going on... Mark

So... can anyone tell me the purpose of the cut bolt and this matching "washer"? It appears to facilitate some adjustment of the transverse link but I cannot find reference to it in the workshop manual....

This is not going to be at any general hardware supplier:

I have not checked MSA or ACE... these are not straight metric bolts but are a specialty item.

Can you help me locate these parts: These are the bolt/nut that hold the transverse link to the body in my 71 240z BOLT (#54436-E4100) NUT (#08912-84410) WASHER (#56114-09400) I need 2 each... they are discontinued by Nissan as far as I can tell. I can provide pictures if you need.... THANK YOU! Mark

The bolts and nuts are no longer available according to my local Nissan parts store and Courtesy Nissan.... now what!!!?? mark

It will be SOOOO great if I can replace these. THANK YOU.

So I stripped the nut (and I think the bolt). Am I royally screwed or is there a source for this odd bolt? Anyone know the thread pitch/diameter on these? Arrrrggghhhh... Mark

During reinstall, before I bolted things to the outboard end, I could move the transverse link left/right seeing the rubber bushing flex some. It was not loose, broken or hard as a rock - I got a bit of flex... I think it's ok. And yes, when I was trying to knock the old bushing out (I don't own a press) I was banging on it pretty good (using a socket sized to line up against the bushing's steel sleeve) and it didn't want to move. I didn't want to deform the transverse link....

Thanks... I actually didn't replace the bushing.. it didn't want to come out and it seems to be in decent shape so I decided to leave it alone. Did I make a mistake with that? Mark

According to the Workshop manual the torque setting for the "Transverse link mounting bolt" is 79.6 to 94 ft lbs... I am feeling that this is a lot. Can anyone confirm that this is correct? Also I need to confirm that this is for the nut that goes on the end of the bolt that has half of the threaded shaft missing that goes thru this bushing (#14 in the picture below when it is installed in the transverse link): . . The transverse link (part 16) and the nut to torque is number #18 . Do I have this all correct? Thanks, Mark

Ok... so I returned all of the mismatched Amazon MOOG parts and ordered Beck Arnley parts from RockAuto... what came in the 2 boxes are identical "555" brand ball joints... the ones with the spring holding the rubber boot and a grease fitting! The only downside I found with RockAuto is that when I tried to order a number of parts it turned out they were coming from different shipping locations and RA wanted to charge me separate ship fees for each location... that added up to a lot of money. Unfortunately when you are choosing the part from those available (in the list of ball joints they have, for example) you can't see the location. Only once you are in the shopping cart can you see the ship location and the applicable ship fees... a bit frustrating. BUT: I have the right parts at a decent price so, after all, I am good to go... Thanks for the RockAuto recommendation and all of the info. Mark

1. I didn't say it was useless. I said it didn't answer my question. 2.Thanks for the discount link.I'll be ordering from them tonight. 3. 2 of the 3 units DO have grease fitting ports. And it IS important to me to be able to grease them. Thanks, mark

So, I bought these at Amazon (not PartsGeek). They shipped the replacement OVERNIGHT at no charge. Amazing customer service.... EXCEPT that the replacement ball joint is YET ANOTHER brand... not matching either of the first two. Bad news is that they do not have any means to actually open the boxes to look for matching (555) ball joints so that they could send me the RIGHT one... Good news is they are taking them all back... Here's what I got today:

I did search and that thread does not answer my questions... Any info on which is "better"? Is the one on the right adjustable and the left one is not?

I purchased new ball joints for my 71. I finally got around to cracking the boxes open and... SURPRISE! They are 2 different styles... One is marked for the "555" brand the other has no markings. I am going to contact PartsGeek to get one of them replaced (I want the 2 to be the same).. Can someone explain the differences? They both have holes for grease fittings, one looks to be adjustable, one is a bit larger... Thoughts?

Thanks... the sway bar/links/mounts & bushings are all back together. What worked for me was: Jack up the control arm AND have my 16 year old son out his weight on the fender to further compress the spring AND to compress and seat the entire assembly: thread on the nut without the top steel washer and THEN I could get to the first couple of threads to get the nut started. Now: what's the scoop on how tight to make that nut. I suppose once the bolt head peaks out of the top of the nylock nut it's going to stay put. I guess I'll check it once it's back on the tires to see if there is any play in the bushings and tighten some more if need be? Mark PS. Oh yes, a healthy dose of cursing WAS a part of the operation too.

Are the Energy Suspension sway bar links that I bought REALLY supplied with bolts that are too short OR do I need to compress the springs to push the sway bar down onto the new bushings to compress them enough to get the nut on? Mark

Not sure what a "vented hat type" is... but I THINK these are standard, regular-old rotors...

The brake rotors (that are rusty from the car sitting for 25 years untouched) that are on my 71 240z say they should not be turned down below 10.5mm. They measure at 10.5mm. Is this likely because they have already been turned or is this the original measurement? (For what it's worth I already ordered new rotors so this question is largely academic - when I get them I'll have a better idea what to expect from new) Mark

What else? #13 bushings? #10 bushings? Sway bar ends and mount bushings (#12)? How about #1 and #2 or should I wait to see how the struts work first?