Z Kid

Go the 1600's, mine is just about ready to hit the roads, not sure why you are calling that rusty, yours has rear quarters, which puts you ahead of where mine started. Have fun, they are a pretty cool little car IMHO.

Many of the damn things are sold without even advertising, by people expressign interest over the years and the guys collecting phone numbers (I put a note on a windscreen nearly two years ago and got a call last night) Incidentally 240Z for sale in adelaide for those who are interested. My parts car I called the lady at 6.30 am on my way to work, and I was the first call, bought it sight unseen, when I went to pick it up, she had had 13 phonecalls after mine and before 8am. I think for the price that one in the add would go pretty rapidly. Cheers Chris

The guy who crashed that ferarri was not going 145mph, he was pissed out of his brains, uninsured and it was only three days old though. Hes almost a local

Nigel, its bloody tought trying to work this out, I usually just waited and saw what people were willing to pay for it, for one set of 2+2 doors I got 250 bucks, yet the last door I sold ended up going for 25 bucks (not too happy about that) it more just what people are willing to pay. If you only get one offer on a part, then take that offer if you want to sell it, if not you're stuck with the part and no money. Thats just how I work. Good luck Chris

If your engine and transmission is mounted solidly, any torque from the motor goes directly into the frame, so surely this must increase the chances of stress fractures etc? Also vibrations and noises would be a problem. I can't see the logic behind it on a car which you want drivable, and not have your teeth shaken out of your head?

For future reference, you can get the wasp brand tie rod ends in Aus for a shade under 50bucks each, seem reputable, and many people who have used them have had no problems

Just a couple of things to point out or add, If you are using an engine hoist, move the car back from the hoist, don't move the hoist back from the car, if the engine starts to swing, its time you stick your head between your knees and kiss your arse goodbye. get the car all clear then lower the engine before you start trying to move it round. If you are using the shed roof and block and tackle, just keep a close eye on things, many sheds aren't designed for this and when the roof gets closer to the car, things get kinda scary. I personally can't see all the fuss about taking the head etc off to reduce weight, and find that as one big unit with the gearbox etc and head and carbs its an easier and neater removal (the only time I have ever dropped a motor was when I seperated it from the gearbox, but its ok, it was only a landrover motor) Have fun, and as long as you take it slowly and tag everything you remove you will be fine. Cheers Chris PS A rule to live by when working on engines, I was told it and I thought it only fit to pass it on to you. When checking clearances, threads etc, "Never stick your finger in a hole you wouldn't stick your d*** into" Stupid and basic rule, but it makes you think twice before you check how well anything is lined up, and if you live by this you should a the end have ten fingers and a male appendage.

Neither of my engines had the rings for lifting on them. I just used a rople sling, round the engine, and round the gearbox, this allowed for plenty of simple adjustment, as well as being easy and cheaper than chain (before you flame me about rope not being strong enough, remember that modern 1mm spectra has a SWL of 100kg's.) If you are worried about stripping studs etc out of the head, this may be the way to go, and providing you can tie a knot well, its not going to move. When I pulled the motors, they were motor gearbox carbs etc all in one, and had no problems, except the tree which I had the block and tackle tied to kept moving, making it a bit of a pain in the arse . Good luck

Need the rear slam panel for the hatch if it is in ok condition at a reasonable price.

There was an rb20 one for sale as well this week wasn't there?

I think I have one of the mags lying around somewhere, and the second hand bookshop near me has a few zoom mags, let me know the issue numbers and I will do some fishing in my spare time. Chris

Its not a problem to buy them at your local autor parts shop, and installing them is pretty damn easy, however, there are usually lots of little plastic spacers/washers, if you don't get them in the right place, and they earth, your car will never start. Just take it easy and pay attention to what goes where, the condenser is also a possibility, when they heat up, they tend to not work well absorbing the extra spark and your car farts and pops when you rev it.

In the absence of ALan, I will use one of the pictures he posted somewhere to answer a few questions. The head was made by OS Giken.

HS30 Overall length 4,136mm (162.8in) Overall Width 1,630mm, (64.2in) Overall Heght 1,268mm (50.5in) Wheelbase 2,305mm (90.7in) Tread front 1,356mm (53.3in) Tread Rear 1,347mm (53.0in) Min road clearence 164mm (6.5in) Seating capacity 2 persons They are the figures from the factory parts catalog, can't find the weight, but people had it aroudn here before. Cheers Chris Just found it, weight between 1044kg (2300lb) and 1025kg (2260lk) depending on where you get it from.

I would think that they are the later british su's, when you look at the side on pic in the gallery, they look more like the integrated(non bowl) pommy ones than the jap hitachis. As to what they came off, no idea, maybe a big healey or triumph?

Is there any reason these carbs wont bolt onto your boat anchors manifold?

Would you be able to email the pics of them to me at thorci00@hotmail.com. You US guys seem to have lots of different Z caps with a D in the middle . I can't imagine shipping costing too much more than an arm, or maybe a firstborn child, so It may be worth the money/ Cheers Chris

If they are the correct Z hubcaps for the 240Z, I would be interested in one or all of them, as long as you are willing to ship to Australia. Cheers Chris

Classic rally section won by a h510 YES

YOU LITTLE BASTARD. Well I guess it means you will only have to have one set of engine spares between that and your other car Lucky sod

Just a thought, a 2+2 in pieces takes up a shitload more room than a complete 2+2(I found this the hard way). You would want the diff, the dash, all front body panels, maybe some of the console bits, the manual pedal box, others may want struts etc. I did it the wrong way, if you have space, put the whole 2+2 round behind your shed and use it as a nother storage facility. And If you are cutting it up, can I have the rear slam panel above the lights, providing its pretty rust free. Also if you can, be very careful and save the chrome trim aorund the windscreen, doesn't seem like much, but there are bastards over here charging 140 bucks, and getting it for them. Cheers Chris

It saddens me very much, but if you are into Z's look at the pictures, and do not look at the results, not sure what is going on, but its not pretty

Not sure how many copyrights I would infringe by posting the pics here, so I will just give you the web adress, well worth the look IMHO. Cheers Chris http://www.targa.org.au/gallery/2003/spectatorimages/highres/3TT%2031-08.jpg http://www.targa.org.au/gallery/2003/spectatorimages/highres/3TT%2031-13.jpg http://www.targa.org.au/gallery/2003/spectatorimages/highres/3TT%2031-02.jpg

3.54 I think, well thats what the two diffs from behind autos have been that I have pulled out.